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Viper clutch spider pockets

TD Max said:
From what I gather only some drag as much as mine did. This coincides with what Studroes found with his Cat 7000 project. Low mph and sticking primary.

Hoping we get some snow soon so I can test. The one key variable is that I created though is the gearing change. I just could not wait until mid season.
Click to expand...

Our red viper primary clutch was tight in more than a few places. Took a bit of steel wool to get it loose. My contact with Yamaha said at that time the new clutches were being made off a new mold and were not exactly the same as the old. After a quick look at them and the sharp flashing etc, I had to agree with that. Whether that is true or not some of these clutches are very tight and need fixed.
 

When mine was new as you slid it back and forth it went zeet-zeet as the shoes rode over apparent machining marks. I polished with 400 then 600 grit to help with this. I even had my dealer split the clutch so I could do the entire pocket. It slid like butter, but in very little use the score marks came back. They look like you took a very sharp scribe after it in random spots.

I think that these scores are probably going to come back as it seems like the coating is getting scratched a bit, but only time will tell. If it gets bad again we'll have to try something else OR I may just buy a good used clutch and swap my calibration until this one can be figured out.
 
Out for the first time this season for a quick run. Last season last run I ran the 8JP belt and had very consistent in the 9,100 RPM range. This season I made some changes in addition to the spider pocket coating:

Changed upper 21t 2.33 ratio to 24t 2.04 ratio.

New 8DN belt

MBRP can was split so I put on the Ulmer/Straightline unit.

Added the Ulmer velocity stacks in the air box.

Clutching/engagement seems VERY smooth. RPM is way down what little I worked it. 8300-8400 is about it. I did not want to beat up on the new belt just yet. I hope to get the machine inside to check out the pockets and work with Ulmer to try to get rid of some tip weight. Right now the tip is empty. I should also note that I am running last years gas Stabilized and stored in the garage all off season with dehumidifier on. Gas still could be a little flat I'm sure.
 
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I took a look t the pockets and the pucks are definitely scoring the coating, but operation is MUCH smoother and I knew going into this that the coating was sacrificial. I verified engagement at about 3000 and I can hold it right there. Prior I had a hard time starting smoothly and it lurched when engaged. If memory serves engagement has dropped 5-600 RPM. Only time will tell if it will remain smooth, but I'm hoping that the coating will burnish into the parts and keep things working freely.
 
Found same thing on my clutch so I took it apart and what I found was there are o rings in the horse shoes that was making it tied so I replace them with thinner o rings and it works way better now :jump:
 
Did you replace the shoes at the time of coating or after you polished it?
 
I blow mine out before every ride. What max are you using cannon? Does it last? Seems like it would just wear off nearly immediately?
 
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