Viper tunnel/running board smut

TD Max

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I have a lot of gray smut from the chassis flexing. It will develop where the rivets are for the front cross shaft, where the rear section joins the front via lap joint, and at the rear of the running boards where the brace inserts. It looks like it really should have another rivet here. Funny how some rivets stay nice and tight and others work around so much.

This was after 100 miles of moderate pace. If I ride harder and longer in wetter conditions it gets worse. Anybody else see this on their white tunnel sled?

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IMG_4443.JPG
 
........ Anybody else see this on their white tunnel sled?

No.........and anything like that would definitely catch my eye..............
 
Yup but not that bad and none of my rivets came loose. Is odd all the LE and RR's have that second hole unused. Maybe prevent the brace from cracking?
 
Mine and my buddies does it some too. Had the deal take note of it when I first noticed it..
 
Same thing on my 15 ltx se with 550 miles just noticed it last weekend, not as bad tho. Going to keep my eye on it.
 
Mine are like that also. It's a '15 RTX-DX with only 800 miles. My rear tunnel brace inserts are actually rattling, so I don't think soapy water is going to fix it:) I don't want to complain, I like this sled; but loose rivets this soon? Is this something we should be concerned about? left tunnel brace.jpgright tunnel brace.jpgleft front cross shaft.jpgright front cross shaft.jpg
 
If it rattles or rivet is loose yes get it fixed. Alot of what you see is coming from that open little hole in tunnel. Rest is just crud,dirt. When its black around the rivets 99% of time its just powdercoat that doesnt stick there. Is not "Blown Rivets" like that old post. I have been watching for movement and there is none.
 
TD, mine looks exactly like yours. So does my brothers. Are your rivets loose? The ones on the back of the running boards are actually loose.
 
The pop rivet in the running board is loose as a goose. The issue is that the head is not drawn tight. I'm not sure if the support is solid or hollow, but a key joint like this needs a rivet that expands nicely and draws the head down tight. Backing washers can also help in this regard.

My snow flap shows signs that the rivets are working around as well.


I figured the RR chassis with the reinforcements should be better than this.
 
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