Want HOT hands?..It can be done!!! EDITED FIRST POST

[Iceman57]

Dan I think it pluses slower at the low setting an as you adjust the controller to a higher setting the pulses get closer together.

 

[Tork]

Dan I think the cure has a good chance of being nailed right here.

Those are designed to go from the battery thru a fuse to the control then to the grips.

That is how my vest is too, my controller is a little different looking, I'll post a link on that...Dan, call hotgrips and see if it handles 11 amps

Tork, only problem with that hook-up is you will have to remember to turn off the grips when you shut the sled down. I will call Hot Grips tomorrow as well and see if the controller can be hooked-up to the current power wire to the grips.

OK so add a relay, relay coil to ignition circuit

here is my heated vest controller

This thermostat works by digitally regulating the amount of power to the garment. It draws less than the full 45 watts at intermediate settings. (Resistance type thermostats draw full power at all settings.) The Aerostich Heat-Troller features a rotary on/off switch and an LED that blinks faster as you turn up the heat. (At the maximum setting the light is on continuously.) The case size is 1.5"×2.25"×.75". The Aerostich Heat-Troller is available with SAE connectors. Panel mount model includes everything needed for permanent installation.

*Note I have had this on my BMW for 8-9 years, always works perfectly, never gets hot. It says 45 watts, didnt someone figure the rewire puts the grips at 110 watts or something?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan I think the cure has a good chance of being nailed right here.

Those are designed to go from the battery thru a fuse to the control then to the grips.

That is how my vest is too, my controller is a little different looking, I'll post a link on that...Dan, call hotgrips and see if it handles 11 amps

Tork, only problem with that hook-up is you will have to remember to turn off the grips when you shut the sled down. I will call Hot Grips tomorrow as well and see if the controller can be hooked-up to the current power wire to the grips.

OK so add a relay, relay coil to ignition circuit

here is my heated vest controller

so this type of "timed switch" will draw LESS power all the time?...so it draws thru our ECU then to our bars right?..this would mean that our ECU should see less draw if this is how it works...sounds like a good idea..

the hotgrips rheostat sounds like a good idea since its made for hot grips and made for motor vehicles including sleds...this could be our CPU savior






This thermostat works by digitally regulating the amount of power to the garment. It draws less than the full 45 watts at intermediate settings. (Resistance type thermostats draw full power at all settings.) The Aerostich Heat-Troller features a rotary on/off switch and an LED that blinks faster as you turn up the heat. (At the maximum setting the light is on continuously.) The case size is 1.5"×2.25"×.75". The Aerostich Heat-Troller is available with SAE connectors. Panel mount model includes everything needed for permanent installation.

if this draws LESS power with this type of "timed switch"...i would assume our CPUs would see less draw at ALL times,which would be the key to makeing sure they are OK....would this then allow our stock level switch to be more typical?...

Dan

 

[jimmie d]

Viper grips are wired through the CPU also so you have to disable the control and wire through a 2/3 way switch.


Jim

 

[Iceman57]

if this draws LESS power with this type of "timed switch"...i would assume our CPUs would see less draw at ALL times,which would be the key to makeing sure they are OK....would this then allow our stock level switch to be more typical?...

Dan

Dan I do believe that is the case. I will hopefully be able to get one by Friday or Monday so I can install it before I leave on Wednesday for 5 days of riding next week.

 

[Tork]

so this type of "timed switch" will draw LESS power all the time?...so it draws thru our ECU then to our bars right?..this would mean that our ECU should see less draw if this is how it works...sounds like a good idea..

the hotgrips rheostat sounds like a good idea since its made for hot grips and made for motor vehicles including sleds...this could be our CPU savior

It draws less power than resistance type circuits at settings below full on.

Nope, basically battery to controler to grips. Not needed, skip the CPU,

Wire in a new simple circuit with 14 guage lamp cord for example, 16 may be fine see what H grips says

 

[NytroFIB]

I hope something like this works.
I just kinda stumbled on these things, and thought they might limit the amount of power to the grips.
Good luck guys.
YAMAHA..... YOUR GRIPS SUCK!!!! FIX THEM!!!!!

 

[RTX DUDE]

I have read and reread some of this fix, and i noticed that some of the same fixes that were posted yesterday are gone. whats up with that? My dealer told me to keep on low setting or use a resistor and this info was removed? I also asked about a bulletin on this and also removed. Was this wrong to post?
could a Moderator Please let me know, now 20 pages kind of beat to death

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I hope something like this works.
I just kinda stumbled on these things, and thought they might limit the amount of power to the grips.
Good luck guys.
YAMAHA..... YOUR GRIPS SUCK!!!! FIX THEM!!!!!

this was a great find...thanks!

can someone post exactly how the wiring diagram is completely for the entire heater circuit?

It seems to me the heat must go from power,to CPU(level bars) then to switch then to grips correct?...the reason I think this is how its wired is because yammie is worried we will fry our CPus(which would be the level bars).....so if yammie is worried about this then Im assuming the power is FULL going to CPU first right?...

But doesnt it make more sense that the power goes to switch first,then the CPU,then the grips?...that would make more sense to me...and IF this is how its wired,then we have no worry of frying CPU as long as we keep switch down below half...right?...

I just want to know what the "path" is of wiring...If it goes to CPU first,then switch then grips,that means IF we can install a rheostat before the CPU we would have the FIX to save the CPU from full power...but if the power goes to switch,then cpu then grips,it seems to me we would have to be sure to place the switch before cpu...but then im not sure stock switch would work...

I have a feeling the only way to install this timed switch is to completely go around the stock level switch and not use any part of the CPU for grips...just using the battery,rheostat then grips would be best i guess..but then no nifty stock switch anymore...

ahhh..who knowns anymore..I guess the only way to know for sure is to install this type of rheostat switch and see if CPU levels are then more normal...where hi is hot and low is low..not like 2 bars is hot like mine now..lol

dan

 

[Tork]

Sure I just saw it....get a grip there are 20 pages hereLOL

Just my post and the lawsuit were removed I am almost positive



[edit} your post is 1st one on page 18, I doubt we will get a copy after all of this unless it is from a dealer

 

[snakes]

I have been reading this post for some time and I made a call to Yamaha today (Customer Relations 800 962-7926) and spoke with a gentleman named Ian. I told him that I own a 2006 Apex GT and that two of my friends also own Apex's, one is a 2006 Apex RTX and the other is a 2007 Apex ER and that all three of us are not having any heat to our grips. I also asked if there was the so call "ECU Tech Bulletin" and he told me NO.

I expressed the concerns that everyone on this site has about junk heat warmers and he told me that anyone that calls about any problem with Yamaha products a claim will be filed. I also asked if anyone at Yamaha frequents these type of websites and he told me that he had a few die hard sled guys that he knows within Yamaha proably do frequent this site and others. I also stated that there was a "garage fix" for this problem and that it entailed using 2006 bars ect, ect. He told that Yamaha does not have anything to fix this problem now but if everyone takes 5 minutes tommorow to call and talk to them about our concerns then this might happen sooner than later. Remember when you call to be polite and not scream and yell this will help our cause in the long run.

I have Ian's extention written down at work and I will post it tommorow so everyone can call the same person.

 

[Tork]

Dan my guess is the rocker, power and grips all go to the CPU. I would not use the CPU as the pulse circuit may be a new can of worms to the CPU and it is not needed.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I have been reading this post for some time and I made a call to Yamaha today (Customer Relations 800 962-7926) and spoke with a gentleman named Ian. I told him that I own a 2006 Apex GT and that two of my friends also own Apex's, one is a 2006 Apex RTX and the other is a 2007 Apex ER and that all three of us are not having any heat to our grips. I also asked if there was the so call "ECU Tech Bulletin" and he told me NO.

I expressed the concerns that everyone on this site has about junk heat warmers and he told me that anyone that calls about any problem with Yamaha products a claim will be filed. I also asked if anyone at Yamaha frequents these type of websites and he told me that he had a few die hard sled guys that he knows within Yamaha proably do frequent this site and others. I also stated that there was a "garage fix" for this problem and that it entailed using 2006 bars ect, ect. He told that Yamaha does not have anything to fix this problem now but if everyone takes 5 minutes tommorow to call and talk to them about our concerns then this might happen sooner than later. Remember when you call to be polite and not scream and yell this will help our cause in the long run.

I have Ian's extention written down at work and I will post it tommorow so everyone can call the same person.

I agree we all should make the calls...and your post is well taken....however i have very little faith that this issue will be revisited...I beleive that yamaha thinks they did the fix and they are done.

I think we MAY HOPEFULLY see some changes with 08 warmers..not sure what they will do this time but I would bet youll see them warmer for next season...but I just think we 06/07 guys will be SOL.

I have no problem doing something to my sled to make it more comfy for myself...the main reason i did this to my sled was due to the fact i lost faith that yammie would make this sled right...they continously sidestep the simple minor things that should be addressed....these are the things that can make or break their top dog sleds(apex/attack series)

Defintiley everyone should call the 800 number...I know i have called them several times for other issues and will do so again...it certainly cannot hurt...they are very nice to talk to and will document your VIN number ect...

 

[tripleboy]

rewired 06 rtx like suggested

Had grips rewired with existing harness, both grips were hot,my 1st ride
my left grip went cold, was a little after I plugged in my geated visor. don't know if that had affect or not, grip still doesn't work at all any advice what it could be?? A fuse maybe but just on one grip?? please advise... :exc:

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Re: rewired 06 rtx like suggested

Had grips rewired with existing harness, both grips were hot,my 1st ride
my left grip went cold, was a little after I plugged in my geated visor. don't know if that had affect or not, grip still doesn't work at all any advice what it could be?? A fuse maybe but just on one grip?? please advise... :exc:

you had 06 bars into 07 harness?...

where is your shield wired into?....

my shield is wired into my cigar lighter and all works well...i have been reading where certain shields(yammie shields of all makes) were too much draw on the cigar plug and would blow fuse for that circuit.

not sure why you would lose left grip,unless someone wired the sheild to left grip and then it somehow hurt something on left side.

have you checked your wire plug ins again?..especially left one...also,is your shield working still or is it not anymore?

dan