Simplespeed
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2022
- Messages
- 452
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- 65
- Location
- 1191 Sauk Lane , Saginaw, Mi. 48638
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2006 Apex , 2017 Sidewinder LTX -LE
Agree, it may not be the problem .. it is possible it is working right.. it could be a combination of other things.. I have not looked into this either but its looking like there is a problem with enough sleds that warrants some attention to get to the bottom of the true causes before I do have this problem…To evaluate it as a flaw we need to understand the byproduct (measure the outcome). Ignoring the water pump for a second, if we saw a lot of turbo failures I would say the design is flawed. To know how well it is working we would need to measure the system post shutdown for flow as well as input/output temperature on each side of the turbo. If it is indeed causing air to enter into the system then that is also a flaw. Right now the only way we know it is working is the gurgling which implies that the coolant is boiling and maybe that is all in how the vapor tank works (which I see in the fiche but have not looked at).
beanie
Extreme
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Messages
- 114
Spaceman , Can you tell me the steps to remove the pump including a way to get to tdc on #3 as has been discussed ? Thank You BeanieHello All, 18 T cat. Stock. 10000 miles. Tiny weep from weep hole for 21 season. My son rode the sled and did not realize how easy these overheat when idling for long periods. Still had coolant in overflow. I let it idle too long and it did not want to cool down. Opened pressure cap and could not see coolant. I lightly blew into overflow to push what as in there to engine. Ran fine. Got back to camp and fully loaded and bled the system. Was fine the rest of trip. I saw more than the usual wetness around weep hole. Ordered seal and shaft just in case. Tore down today. I think loss of coolant from weep was original problem. Second this overheating may be the cause of this failure. See photo. It is tight. But melting has to be the cause.
Spaceman
Extreme
The reason to get to 3 tdc is because there is a counter balancer that will not let the pump gear clear to remove. On the right side of the engine there is a plastic cover over the timing mark.rotate engine c.clockwise u til tdc mark lines up. If pump won't slide out rotate again to tdc if it still wont than one more time will do it.
jaydaniels
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 654
- Location
- Bedford NS Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder RTX
Well. I’m guessing add me to the list. I was running hard and all of a sudden notice my light flash. Look and temp is at 125C or 257F. Still running. I came to a stop, shut it down, and let things cool off. Coolant was inside engine bay area. I’m guessing from it boiling it forced out somewhere. Haven’t dug into it yet but suspect water pump. I have 15,000kms on the mdchine.
jaydaniels
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 654
- Location
- Bedford NS Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder RTX
What involved in changing your the impeller? Do you need to replace shaft and impeller as a unit?
no1b4me
Expert
Remove both clutches, tilt sled up so PTO side is 10" off the floor, drain pan under engine directly under water pump.What involved in changing your the impeller? Do you need to replace shaft and impeller as a unit?
Remove water pump and replace 2 cover O rings, mechanical seal, bearing, 2 dowel pins, oil seal, and impeller.... Reassemble, fill with coolant and bleed.
Remember never ever turn engine stub shaft clock wise!!!
Also you need to set #3 to TDC to remove water pump gear from the camshaft transfer shaft. You will also have to remove torque arm bolts and shift the jack shaft to the side a bit for water pump removal clearance.
Straightforward if you have mechanical abilities, if not then get a experienced person to do the job..... My 2¢
Last edited:
jaydaniels
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 654
- Location
- Bedford NS Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder RTX
Thanks. What’s the best way to determine TDC on number one?Remove both clutches, tilt sled up so PTO side is 10" off the floor, drain pan under engine directly under water pump.
Remove water pump and replace 2 cover O rings, mechanical seal, bearing, 2 dowel pins, oil seal, and impeller.... Reassemble, fill with coolant and bleed.
Remember never ever turn engine stub shaft clock wise!!!
Also you need to set #1 to TDC to remove water pump gear from the camshaft transfer shaft. You will also have to remove torque arm bolts and shift the jack shaft to the side a bit for water pump removal clearance.
Straightforward if you have mechanical abilities, if not then get an experienced person to do the job..... My 2¢
no1b4me
Expert
You need to remove muffler and access MAG and remove both plastic plugs small hole for timing window and the large one to turn engine crankshaft to position.... Also on this side of the engine you turn Clock Wise (MAG side)
Based on your question, I recommend that you have someone experienced conduct this repair, you can bugger things real quick and easy by slightly turning the crankshaft in the wrong direction.... Then it is more than a water pump repair.
I am not belittling your abilities, but this is not like installing studs, carbides and a oil change. Just warning you that re & re a water pump if not done correctly you can harm your engine.
Cheers
Based on your question, I recommend that you have someone experienced conduct this repair, you can bugger things real quick and easy by slightly turning the crankshaft in the wrong direction.... Then it is more than a water pump repair.
I am not belittling your abilities, but this is not like installing studs, carbides and a oil change. Just warning you that re & re a water pump if not done correctly you can harm your engine.
Cheers
jaydaniels
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 654
- Location
- Bedford NS Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder RTX
Remove both clutches, tilt sled up so PTO side is 10" off the floor, drain pan under engine directly under water pump.
Remove water pump and replace 2 cover O rings, mechanical seal, bearing, 2 dowel pins, oil seal, and impeller.... Reassemble, fill with coolant and bleed.
Remember never ever turn engine stub shaft clock wise!!!
Also you need to set #1 to TDC to remove water pump gear from the camshaft transfer shaft. You will also have to remove torque arm bolts and shift the jack shaft to the side a bit for water pump removal clearance.
Straightforward if you have mechanical abilities, if not then get a experienced person to do the job..... My 2¢
Thanks appreciate the info. I should be fine. I’ve rebuiltYou need to remove muffler and access MAG and remove both plastic plugs small hole for timing window and the large one to turn engine crankshaft to position.... Also on this side of the engine you turn Clock Wise (MAG side)
Based on your question, I recommend that you have someone experienced conduct this repair, you can bugger things real quick and easy by slightly turning the crankshaft in the wrong direction.... Then it is more than a water pump repair.
I am not belittling your abilities, but this is not like installing studs, carbides and a oil change. Just warning you that re & re a water pump if not done correctly you can harm your engine.
Cheers
Thanks appreciate your info. I should be fine. I’ve rebuilt a couple Nytro engines from the block up. I was just hoping that maybe there was a simple way to get TDC without having to dismantle too much.You need to remove muffler and access MAG and remove both plastic plugs small hole for timing window and the large one to turn engine crankshaft to position.... Also on this side of the engine you turn Clock Wise (MAG side)
Based on your question, I recommend that you have someone experienced conduct this repair, you can bugger things real quick and easy by slightly turning the crankshaft in the wrong direction.... Then it is more than a water pump repair.
I am not belittling your abilities, but this is not like installing studs, carbides and a oil change. Just warning you that re & re a water pump if not done correctly you can harm your engine.
Cheers
SideHogger
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2016
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- 938
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- 54
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- upstate ny
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Ltx-Le Sidewinder
My question would be, anyone put the aftermarket impellers with lots of miles? Be interesting to hear how they are holding up compared to stock.
Turboflash
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2019
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- 2,494
- Location
- Southern MN
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
The second gen design from Dasa is good. Friends who have installed them say they'll last the life of the sled.My question would be, anyone put the aftermarket impellers with lots of miles? Be interesting to hear how they are holding up compared to stock.
(https://www.dasaracing.com/product-p/xx-wpim.htm)
SideHogger
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2016
- Messages
- 938
- Age
- 54
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- upstate ny
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Ltx-Le Sidewinder
Saying they’ll last and proving they will last, two different things. Real world testing would be nice to see and hear. Not trying to be an a.. to you Turboflash.
Turboflash
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2019
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- 2,494
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- Southern MN
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
twyztid
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 859
- Location
- Middleville, MI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder LTX SE - TD Power Trail, CAI, 3" Super Quiet
2012 RS Vector
2006 Apex GT
- LOCATION
- Middleville, MI
I have over 2500 miles on my Dasa Racing billet impeller. My brother-in-law has similar miles on his Dasa impeller... after having 2 OEM impellers fail.My question would be, anyone put the aftermarket impellers with lots of miles? Be interesting to hear how they are holding up compared to stock.
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