exactly...as stated as above the more you ride groomed trails and want to rail hard with less inside lift the more you will appreciate each millimeter upgrade.
when you ride a groomed trail thats whooped a bit....the more feedback through the handlebars you will feel..say if you were to ride down the middle.....where the whoops on left and the right "dont match" you will get more side to side movement ...like a truck with a solid axle ....compared to stock you get more of an independant axle feel.....
to me the tradeoff of ride compliance is acceptable for increased control...
if you break trail most of the time or ride a lot of powder...you will not enjoy this mod.
when you ride a groomed trail thats whooped a bit....the more feedback through the handlebars you will feel..say if you were to ride down the middle.....where the whoops on left and the right "dont match" you will get more side to side movement ...like a truck with a solid axle ....compared to stock you get more of an independant axle feel.....
to me the tradeoff of ride compliance is acceptable for increased control...
if you break trail most of the time or ride a lot of powder...you will not enjoy this mod.
Super Sled
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sj said:
I just got off the phone with Bruce at Pioneer (716) 496-8800. he recommended and I ordered a 13mm sway bar. The stock is 11mm and is too flexible, the 13mm is stronger and does not flex as much per Bruce. the cost is $89.95 plus s/h.
Can't wait to get it installed with the new Float II's!
Mike
kinger
VIP Member
I love the 13 mm its stiff enough I can run full soft on my GYTR shocks and take the moguls on a whooped trail, and still give me preditable ski lift depending on how hard I lean.
KevinS
Expert
kinger said:
I'm the opposite. I hated the 13mm bar on my Attak. My inside ski lift didn't decrease. It increased. I went back to the stock bar.
the swaybar alone wont cure inside lift if the rest of the suspension isnt dialed in...only then it will reduce it significantly...side to side chatter will feedback throught the suspension more...as the two sides cant work as independantly as before...for the ost agressive rider..the 13mm...for the cruiser that wants a bit less lift...the 12mm....for the family slow rider...stick with stock..
Super Sled
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I believe the 13 mm swaybar fits my riding style on the Attak the best.
And I'll run my Float II's so my arms are parallel to the ground.
Also, I run my transfer rod set to virtually no transfer and I've sucked in my limiter strap to second from farthest hole in.
The Attak should corner like it's on rails this winter!!!!!!
And I'll run my Float II's so my arms are parallel to the ground.
Also, I run my transfer rod set to virtually no transfer and I've sucked in my limiter strap to second from farthest hole in.
The Attak should corner like it's on rails this winter!!!!!!
KevinS said:
I'm curious what you didnt like about it as i'm think of doing this mod to my sled..
KevinS
Expert
Maxout01 said:
Way too much inside ski lift. Go into a corner too hard and my inside ski would be 2 feet in the air. Not sure if it is due to my 8" triple points biting too hard or what but after I went back to the stock swaybar the lift was noticeably decreased and the corners were much more enjoyable.
if all settings remained the same...nothing was broken or installed incorrectly its impossible for your ski lift to increase...
sj said:
Yea thats true, wouldnt significant adjustments in the gytr's alone fix this issue after 13mm install?
Blue Dave
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Personally I like to lift my inside ski and carry it in the air through the corner. I guess that I would like to try someone's sled with the 13 mm bar to see if I like it before I go to the trouble or expense of installing one.
BD
BD
KevinS
Expert
sj said:
No other settings were changed. Just the swaybar swapped back for the stock. Nothing was broken or installed incorrectly.
I am not following how it is impossible. With the heavier swaybar isn't there less body roll? With less body roll shouldn't there be more ski lift? Won't more body roll cause the inside ski to be planted on cornering?
My setup back then:
GYTR shocks running with springs as loose as I can
Transfer set in the middle between std and min
SLP Power Pros
Bergstrom 8 triple points with savers and shims
limiter strap 1 hole tighter than stock
Blue Dave said:
I'm actually scared of inside ski lift now.. I had an 04 skidoo rev 600 mod which I had ski-lift issues with due to the upgrades i made in shocks and stuff.
One night i was flying down the trails locally with a buddy of mine and the snow was just right condition that night to add more inside ski lift. I took one turn and the next thing i knew i was flying through the air into a tree at 60mph. I landed 25-30 feet down the side of a trail My head stopped 3" from a 2 foot around tree. I am certain to this day if i landed into that tree it would have snapped my neck. After digging out of the 3 foot snow and climbing back dizzy as hell in the dark I found the sled on its side 50 feet away from where i went flying and full of snow. Neither of us really hurt at all, but it was something i never want again.
The rev's are higher center of gravity then the apex, but it can still happen.
I had alot of pain, and bad migraines for two weeks after that, and the sled needed new bars, windshield, hand guards but we got through it and i put easily another 2,000 miles on the sled.. After i fixed the ski lift problem.
I dont think inside ski lift is something to mess around with, its a very dangerous issue when things are just right, I easily just missed losing my life just because i thought at the time the ski-lift was "no biggie". I'll never forget looking at the tree in front on my face and realizing what i just escaped..
kinger
VIP Member
I noticed that if you run aggressive carbides and get lazy they dig in it will pop the ski up vs pushing through the corner like stock and not popping the ski. The solution is to ride as aggressive as your carbides are and lean into the turn harder then it will corner flat and hard.
With the stock bar I couldn't keep the thing from pushing and diving into the corners no matter how hard I leaned. With the 13mm its easier but like I said I have been lazy and if I dont quite lean enough you can pop that ski up when the carbide bites are and all the pressure is transfered through the heavy bar to the other ski.
With the stock bar I couldn't keep the thing from pushing and diving into the corners no matter how hard I leaned. With the 13mm its easier but like I said I have been lazy and if I dont quite lean enough you can pop that ski up when the carbide bites are and all the pressure is transfered through the heavy bar to the other ski.
kinger said:
Would you feel the 12mm to be a better solution to help with both issues??
