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What track do you have?

Mr E said:
07Nytro said:
Maybe its a combination of the 136 and having no groomed trails so he might be breaking trails a lot more then the rest of us. I think with the combination of riding powder all the time and the extra drag could bring it down.

That was my thought, with this track I am out front alot, in 50 miles of riding we will be back on our own track only for about 30% of the time. I really checked closely for the last 5 tanks. Nearly exact each time. We have a short winter, but get lots of snow that is not real light.

Still the best move I made installing the track. Going to do the clutch cleanup this summer to see if it helps at all. I have been through it once (Ulmer kit) but not to the extent of polish that Cannondale posted.

For clutch clean up on the helix I just wire brush on the grinder, then used fine sandpaper to smooth it out, use a buffer. I use to use car polish from mothers but I stooped because after each race the polish would cause the belt shavings o stick to the helix badly. Since I stooped with the polish I never had to clean it again. I just added a little bit of it to the buttons. I did this to the outside and angles of the helix, as well as the ring where the outside of the helix sits.
 

marpolsdofer said:
For clutch clean up on the helix I just wire brush on the grinder, then used fine sandpaper to smooth it out, use a buffer. I use to use car polish from mothers but I stooped because after each race the polish would cause the belt shavings o stick to the helix badly. Since I stooped with the polish I never had to clean it again. I just added a little bit of it to the buttons. I did this to the outside and angles of the helix, as well as the ring where the outside of the helix sits.

Do you wet sand or sand it dry?
 
yamahas said:
marpolsdofer said:
For clutch clean up on the helix I just wire brush on the grinder, then used fine sandpaper to smooth it out, use a buffer. I use to use car polish from mothers but I stooped because after each race the polish would cause the belt shavings o stick to the helix badly. Since I stooped with the polish I never had to clean it again. I just added a little bit of it to the buttons. I did this to the outside and angles of the helix, as well as the ring where the outside of the helix sits.

Do you wet sand or sand it dry?

I only did it the initial time since the stuff was stuck on there and after if I had that problem again.
I used 320 dry then 500 wet. Any further cleans was just dont buy wire brush on the grinder(very flexible wire usually breaks off).
 
OK I went to buy my track last night, and a buddy offered up his track that came off his SkiDoo Summit 136" with 1 3/4" paddle. The price is obviously right, but is the track wrong.

Any guys try this one.
 

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If you ride off trail a 1 3/4 would be good. You just have to cut it down to the 14" wide.

Not sure if you will need doo drivers?
 
Came off a 2001, part # says its a 2.52 pitch, i just wasnt sure if the 1 3/4" is way too much for both the sled, and the type of riding i do.
I mostly ride trails, but with this track i thought i might be able to get away without studs.
 
Totalrecall said:
Came off a 2001, part # says its a 2.52 pitch, i just wasnt sure if the 1 3/4" is way too much for both the sled, and the type of riding i do.
I mostly ride trails, but with this track i thought i might be able to get away without studs.

For mostly trails I would think its too much. If it is a really good price then you could also cut down the lugs. I have seen this done by other on here.
 
Totalrecall said:
Price is Free

I would go for it. I think 1 3/4 is a bit too much for mostly trail riding because bigger lugs will not help on the icy trails. I think cut down to 1.5 and studs would give you all the traction you would need.

If I was you I would cut it down to 1.5 and if you want more traction add studs not lugs.

You got yourself a great deal on that track!
 


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