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What track do you have?

trail riding my 1.7" track in crappy hard conditions in EUP this year, I burned through a new set of sliders in 150 miles. course I only have 4 idler wheels also....
 

Hurting the top end i understand, because of the extra weight, but i am 160 to 165 lbs, The difference between the 1 1/4" and the 1 3/4" track is only about 6 lbs, will that make a big difference?
I do understand that it is 6 lbs that the motor will have to spin, and that does put a greater load on the motor, than 6 lbs of weight on the seat. But f i use the 1 3/4" track and do not need studds wont i be better off weight wise

I do not understand the huge hyfax wear. I am going to need the extra wheels and scratchers for the 136 conversion no matter the track correct?

Just trying to understand all the Dynamics. I figure the more i understand the better i can set it up.

Thanks again
 
I am not 100 percent sure but i could be because the slides are farther from the snow? maybe added "pressure points" caused by the much taller lugs.

you can always run with the 1.75 and see how you like it then if you go through slides or you loose too much top end you can cut it down with it still installed.

I think the rotational mass is harder to overcome then the masss is a rider or stationary objects.
 
It basically this. You are spinning 6 pounds more but there is also the fact that you are spinning a bigger fan and that's resistance from air pressure in the tunnel. The guys are correct also when they're telling you it will be harder on hyfax if you're running hard pack trails. The best thing to do is try it at 1.75 and if it burdens the machine or you just keep eating hyfax cut em down. You don't even have to remove the track to do it. Slightly taller and or extra wheels will never hurt either. Scratchers are never a bad idea either depending on your normal conditions.
 
They are correct about hyfax wearing and its harder to spin a object then move a object. A spin object such that of a track will cause back presser and the object will keep multiplying in force the fast it moves, all the force will want to push out. Top end loss is the same reasons. In XC (dont know about SX) all 600's have to run 1 1/4 inch track to prevent us from going to fast.
 
just like Yamahas say the extra 3/4 of an inch away from the snow really affects the slider lubrication and also that much rotating mass isn't set up for either clutches unless you you get the mtx setup with gears.
 
OK,
I wend to pick up the track last night, and after hanging out for a while i asked why he took his extension kit off........Sled don`t fit in his trailer. He has the exact same trailer as me. Inside dimensions of trailer is 9'-10", and after a few hours of research the extension would make the sled at least 10'-2" lg. I might be able to shorten the tunnel extension but i figure that in order to keep the sled short enough the tunnel extension could be no more than 3". Again, more research, I found a guy who had the same issue as me, and the only way for the 3" tunnel extension was to cut down the track lugs to 1 1/4", and he would sometimes have his studs hit the snow flap bracket. I dont really like the idea of studs "sometimes" hitting anything, so now back to the drawing board.

I now have 2 choices, Do the 136" extension, and buy a new trailer, or a 128" conversion.

I went online, and found a 128 Arctic Cat track with studs for $120.

That being said the 136 conversion is now a 128 conversion.

Thanks to all for your help.
 
Does your buddy still want to get rid of his summit track??? lol
just curious. :-o :-o I'll even pay him for it.
 
xrrider said:
Glad to see that you decided on the 128". It will raise the fun factor of your sled 100%. ;)!

Only thing that is going to kill me is the snow is gone, and i`ll be looking at the mod for way too long before trying it.

Honestly didn`t consider the 128 until i recievd feedback from this thread about it, and then realized the 136 wouldn`t fit in the trailer.


Thanks for the ideas.
 
Hey Total,

If its not too much trouble would you be able to put together a little how-to on the track change when you do it? Track change questions often come up looking for a good walk through on what to do and the only thing that comes up on the phazers a few quick notes on specific questions.

I know I would really like to have something to follow when I get to changing my track and I am sure others would really appreciate it too. Thanks!
 
yamahas said:
Hey Total,

If its not too much trouble would you be able to put together a little how-to on the track change when you do it? Track change questions often come up looking for a good walk through on what to do and the only thing that comes up on the phazers a few quick notes on specific questions.

I know I would really like to have something to follow when I get to changing my track and I am sure others would really appreciate it too. Thanks!

It would be my pleaseure, After all Why not give back
 
Any of you guys see a good How to post or make one be sure to let me know and I will put link to it in the How to section.Taking pics and such is a big job but it sure is appreciated.
 


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