Who is running TAPP Primary clutch??

[1049triple]

I ran the Tapp on mine last year. It was a really short season but after 1000km of riding and tunig, I still prefer the Yamaha primary. In my opinion, you can adjust more with a Yamaha primary. Like Knapp said, the clickers are nice, but they are not something that you play with a lot. You are kinda limited with the curvature of the ramp with the Tapp. Also distributing the weight differently on it and swaping roller size did not what I expected.

 

[Upstater57]

Yes, I've set up 998s on the TCats like this as well.

Thank you for the follow up. I also heard that TAPP may be building their own secondary?

 

[Upstater57]

I personaly run a tapp on my 21 riot 9000 with the factory cat secondary, very nice combo had to add a belt deflection screw to secondary, i believe others on here such as knapp also has done this combo.

Thank you for the follow up.

 

[KnappAttack]

Thank you for the follow up. I also heard that TAPP may be building their own secondary?

I heard that too, although there's nothing wrong with the stock winder secondary or the stock Cat TEAM secondary, not sure why anyone would want/need it.

 

[KnappAttack]

I ran the Tapp on mine last year. It was a really short season but after 1000km of riding and tunig, I still prefer the Yamaha primary. In my opinion, you can adjust more with a Yamaha primary. Like Knapp said, the clickers are nice, but they are not something that you play with a lot. You are kinda limited with the curvature of the ramp with the Tapp. Also distributing the weight differently on it and swaping roller size did not what I expected.

I agree. I found it best to just utilize the washers on the roller bolts for RPM adjustment and helix for shift curve. I like a 4 degree progressive spread on the helix to get what I want. What really sucks is the cover needs to come off to change weight on the arms.

I wished the clickers worked better for RPM adjustment.

Keep an eye on the roller bushings. I burned thru a set of rollers last season, and if you look under magnification at the axles the bushings ride on you will see why, they are machined and VERY ROUGH. Its the reason they eat the bushings. I was thinking of machining up a set of smooth Ski-Doo pins for roller axles for mine, but haven't got around to it yet, I believe the Doo pins/axles to be chrome plated, one thing is certain, they are smooth and polished where the TAPP axles are like a grinding wheel under magnification, so it eats the bushings for breakfast.

 

[justinator]

The TAPP is a good clutch, I have one on my sled now, but nothing easier than adjusting the weight in Dalton arms on the Yamaha Primary. I like the old RX-1 primary with the Dalton arms and I also like the TAPP, but the cover need to come off the TAPP to change weight on the arms of the TAPP. Yes, the TAPP has clickers on the ramps but IMO they don't do what they should for RPM adjustment. I find it best to take the cover off and adjust the washers on the TAPP for weight and RPM adjustment. The TAPP is expensive, the old RX-1 and Apex primaries are plentiful and you can swap the Dalton arms right into them.

I dont think the TAPP is the be all end all people make it out to be. They too seem to have their own set of problems from what I've seen. Couple have reported problems of broken springs, broken weight and roller bolts, and I saw first hand on mine, premature roller bushing failures, so its not perfect either. IMO its hard to beat the old Yamaha Primary for its price.

Im so glad you said this!! I tried one and I sold it because all said and done it was a nice unit but didnt do anything better than a well setup yamaha primary at hp levels less than 300 anyways. My factory winder clutch was a lucky one and had no issues with roller bushings yet I ate a set on my tapp in around a 1000 miles. Lots and lots of dragy testing and I just couldnt justify keeping it. The old apex clutch is better for most people combined with easy to adjust dalton weights you dont have to know a whole lot to dial things in and parts can be had at your local dealer.

 

[Tarzan]

I agree. I found it best to just utilize the washers on the roller bolts for RPM adjustment and helix for shift curve. I like a 4 degree progressive spread on the helix to get what I want. What really sucks is the cover needs to come off to change weight on the arms.

I wished the clickers worked better for RPM adjustment.

Keep an eye on the roller bushings. I burned thru a set of rollers last season, and if you look under magnification at the axles the bushings ride on you will see why, they are machined and VERY ROUGH. Its the reason they eat the bushings. I was thinking of machining up a set of smooth Ski-Doo pins for roller axles for mine, but haven't got around to it yet, I believe the Doo pins/axles to be chrome plated, one thing is certain, they are smooth and polished where the TAPP axles are like a grinding wheel under magnification, so it eats the bushings for breakfast.

Not happy with my new Tapp. Havent mounted it yet,but the roller arms is almost stuck.
Realy hard to move them up and down. I hope it wont do something to the shift and slipping the belt. Ore that the clutch becomes hot since the arm are so stuck. I dont know if they use locktite on the screws and locktite have come to the pin and therefor the arms are so tight? Arm bushings are to tight? I dont know,but it got me a little scary..

 

[Tarzan]

Is there any aftermarket ramps to buy for dragracing or is the B side the best to go?
I will use it with the Viper secondery.

 

[STAIN]

Is there any aftermarket ramps to buy for dragracing or is the B side the best to go?
I will use it with the Viper secondery.

they do make different ramps from TAPP

 

[STAIN]

To me, the TAPP primary seems to upshift more aggressively than the stock primary.
I took all the weight out of the rollers and used the weight in the arms to achieve my desired RPM. That adjustment is easy.
I do agree that having to remove the cover to change rollers and/ or roller weight is kind of a pain.
I have had no roller bushing problems in @5000 miles

 

[Tarzan]

they do make different ramps from TAPP

Thanks

 

[KnappAttack]

Not happy with my new Tapp. Havent mounted it yet,but the roller arms is almost stuck.
Realy hard to move them up and down. I hope it wont do something to the shift and slipping the belt. Ore that the clutch becomes hot since the arm are so stuck. I dont know if they use locktite on the screws and locktite have come to the pin and therefor the arms are so tight? Arm bushings are to tight? I dont know,but it got me a little scary..

Put some miles on, it will loosen up over time. Its a whole lot better than a stock winder primary when it sticks!