modsrx
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How many rpm you gain if u remove 2 washer on the roller bolts
KnappAttack
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I removed 4 washers on 4 arms and didn't pick up any RPMs, it was however about 20 Degree warmer out too. I think its going to depend on the tune and the clutching you are running, but 2 washers is nothing and I don't see you'll get any change from just a couple grams total.
max rolph
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mine on 310 tune is +1 roller and 4 medium bolts and 3 washers per arm and spins 8900-9050 out back
modsrx
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Thnx for all input for the clutch tapp i finally make the sled pull like it should
Tarzan
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Got my Tapp today
Took the cover of and spring to look around it.
Is the roller arms supposed to be so stuck? Hard to move them up and down.
Seems like the arm bushing are to tight ore will them loosen up a bit when the clutch has been used a little?
Took the cover of and spring to look around it.
Is the roller arms supposed to be so stuck? Hard to move them up and down.
Seems like the arm bushing are to tight ore will them loosen up a bit when the clutch has been used a little?
Fords4life
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I dont remember mine being tight, moved freely or i to would have questioned it, but yes they should free up with a little use, run it a bit then recheck it.
KnappAttack
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Got my Tapp today
Took the cover of and spring to look around it.
Is the roller arms supposed to be so stuck? Hard to move them up and down.
Seems like the arm bushing are to tight ore will them loosen up a bit when the clutch has been used a little?
Yes, some are tighter than others. I have had numerous TAPP's thru here, some are stickier and bind easier than others for sure. It will loosen up quick enough.
Tarzan
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Thanks for answerYes, some are tighter than others. I have had numerous TAPP's thru here, some are stickier and bind easier than others for sure. It will loosen up quick enough.
max rolph
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i have only ever tuned with the +1 roller ,roller bolt and washers, the allen screws did not do much for my running, then adjusted the clicker, at 310 auto tune, medium bolt, 3 washers and clicker on 3 ramps on A. 8900 clims to 9100 black green spring in sec with 46/36 helix in STM
max rolph
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Soo just a note on alignment.... i originally did the float method where you put both clutchs on and put a longer bolt in sec and run it up to say 6mph and record where clutch sat at that shift. then addd shims to rear to keep it at that location.
well since i had everything off my sled i used KNAPPS method and compressed the primary into half shift and reinstalled belt.... a bit a finagling... then placed a straight edge along fat surface of secondary that extended to the primary clutch paralel to the belt.... then measured between belt and straight edge in 2 spots and made them equal.... then measured how many shims were needed to keep in this location. ... i was off by @ .050 from my float method..
well since i had everything off my sled i used KNAPPS method and compressed the primary into half shift and reinstalled belt.... a bit a finagling... then placed a straight edge along fat surface of secondary that extended to the primary clutch paralel to the belt.... then measured between belt and straight edge in 2 spots and made them equal.... then measured how many shims were needed to keep in this location. ... i was off by @ .050 from my float method..
21GT
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Hello I read through the thread the Tapp seems to be a nice clutch. Is the Tapp easier to adjust than the stock primary? Also would it make more sence to go to a apex or nytro primary over the Tapp?
Upstater57
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Has anyone run a TAPP on the 998 Tcat using the Acat secondary?
Regarding the TAPP, I run it on my 1100T with a pro4 secondary. The clutch is smooth, easy on the belt and very easy to adjust. Go to youtube and watch some video.
Regarding the TAPP, I run it on my 1100T with a pro4 secondary. The clutch is smooth, easy on the belt and very easy to adjust. Go to youtube and watch some video.
KnappAttack
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Hello I read through the thread the Tapp seems to be a nice clutch. Is the Tapp easier to adjust than the stock primary? Also would it make more sence to go to a apex or nytro primary over the Tapp?
The TAPP is a good clutch, I have one on my sled now, but nothing easier than adjusting the weight in Dalton arms on the Yamaha Primary. I like the old RX-1 primary with the Dalton arms and I also like the TAPP, but the cover need to come off the TAPP to change weight on the arms of the TAPP. Yes, the TAPP has clickers on the ramps but IMO they don't do what they should for RPM adjustment. I find it best to take the cover off and adjust the washers on the TAPP for weight and RPM adjustment. The TAPP is expensive, the old RX-1 and Apex primaries are plentiful and you can swap the Dalton arms right into them.
I dont think the TAPP is the be all end all people make it out to be. They too seem to have their own set of problems from what I've seen. Couple have reported problems of broken springs, broken weight and roller bolts, and I saw first hand on mine, premature roller bushing failures, so its not perfect either. IMO its hard to beat the old Yamaha Primary for its price.
Fords4life
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I personaly run a tapp on my 21 riot 9000 with the factory cat secondary, very nice combo had to add a belt deflection screw to secondary, i believe others on here such as knapp also has done this combo.Has anyone run a TAPP on the 998 Tcat using the Acat secondary?
Regarding the TAPP, I run it on my 1100T with a pro4 secondary. The clutch is smooth, easy on the belt and very easy to adjust. Go to youtube and watch some video.
KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I personaly run a tapp on my 21 riot 9000 with the factory cat secondary, very nice combo had to add a belt deflection screw to secondary, i believe others on here such as knapp also has done this combo.
Yes, I've set up 998s on the TCats like this as well.
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