why does belt make funny sound like a chipmunk?

[TrailxRider]

Today I went for my first real ride and sometimes when I let off the gas the belt sounds like a chipmunk. Before the ride I have been having problems with the belt squeeling and make some small adjustments and that went away but now it sounds like a chipmunk laughing when I let off. Does this mean the belts to lose now?

Sorry if there's typos. I'm using my cellphone to type this. Were going back riding in the morning.

Sled ran awesome today with my current setup and the ulmer clutch kit rocks.

 

[shanksyamaha]

Is there a chance that you burnt a flat spot in the belt. From what your describing it sounds like that might be the problem..

 

[Vectornut]

I had all kinds of funny noises and constant squeeling at idle on my 05 RS Vector ER back when I bought it new. I switched to an Ultimax 3 belt #138-4432U3 recommended by Hartman and have been using this belt ever since. The Yamaha belt is for spare only.

 

[vx700xtc]

How many miles on the sled?

 

[TrailxRider]

about 1,090 miles on the sled. This is the origonal belt and it's still in spec. I did buy a new yami belt but it squeels a lot.

I noticed the noise when letting off the throttle quick but if I slowly decellerate it doesn't make any sounds and sled feels great. Also Im on a slight incline from a stop and gas the sled or slow down to much and then gas sled uphil it makes a really weird noice almost like the clutch isnt working and its seized up. I have a feeling the belt is slipping but not sure.

Other than these instances, on my 100 mile ride today the sled was great. Acceleration is awesome and extremely smooth. I do have heavy steering but I'll make a different post about that situation.

 

[vx700xtc]

Those symptoms sound a lot like worn secondary parts, but that shouldnt be an issue with less than 6-7000 miles.
I would take a real good look at the secondary clutch, sounds like it is binding and not fully backshifting.

 

[shanksyamaha]

do you have a spare belt of a buddy with a spare you could throw on for a few miles and see if you still get the noise?? If you do then its not belt related....

 

[TrailxRider]

I did notice some yellowish crud on the surface on the secondary where the 2 sheaves slide over eachother and also looks rough. I tried to get it off by cleaning it and I did get a lot off but maybe I need to do it again and do a better job. Maybe this is the reason for it.

I did notice sometimes when I opened the sheaves to put a new belt on it would stay open and I didn't have to even touch it and when I wanted it to close I had to physically close them. I wasnt sure if this is normal but now guessing it should close on it's own and hence the reason when changing a belt people always say to push in and turn to keep the sheaves open while changing them.

I'll examin the secondary more this week.

Thanks for the information.

 

[vx700xtc]

The secondary sheaves should snap shut. Your clutch is binding for some reason. It needs disassembled and inspected. Could be bushings, or sliders, or corrosion, or belt strands where they dont belong, or maybe broken parts.
I strongly suggest you have someone familiar with these clutches look at it.

 

[gcr3903]

The secondary sheaves should snap shut. Your clutch is binding for some reason. It needs disassembled and inspected. Could be bushings, or sliders, or corrosion, or belt strands where they dont belong, or maybe broken parts.
I strongly suggest you have someone familiar with these clutches look at it.

X2

 

[TrailxRider]

The secondary sheaves should snap shut. Your clutch is binding for some reason. It needs disassembled and inspected. Could be bushings, or sliders, or corrosion, or belt strands where they dont belong, or maybe broken parts.
I strongly suggest you have someone familiar with these clutches look at it.

I did notice that the 3 pieces that slide into the fixed sheave looks kindof grimy and a little rough. I did clean them the best I could and it seamed to help the secondary close a little better but I know I could do a much better job if I take it apart.

I know some about the clutch due to installing the Ulmer clutch kit myself and I also have a service manual. I know you need a clutch puller but thats for the primary right? So I don't need any special tools to remove and reinstall the Secondary?

I want to make sure once I take it apart I dont need any special tools to put it back together.

 

[vx700xtc]

Nothing fancy, just watch carefully as you dissassemble.
Remove bolt from end of shaft (14mm). Place clutch on bench with the three nuts facing up. Remove the three nuts carefully and the clutch should stay together. Make a note of which hole the spring is in in the helix, Carefully pull the helix up off of the splines, it will require a little twisting, and be ready when it disengages the splines it will spin a little( hold your hand over the top and push down to keep it from flying apart.
After lifting the helix off be sure to make a note of which hole the spring is in in the sheave.
It sounds harder than it is , just look it over closely.
Reassembly is the reverse. When you go to reengage the splines you wll need to twist the helix just enough to get the ramp on the right side of the plastic sliders(3).
Puller is only for the primary.
Also, when you remove the clutch from the sled keep track of wich washers are on what side of the clutch and reeinstall the same way. Be carefull sometimes the washers stick to the clutch and then fall off later.

 

[zackn291]

Cant say Ive ever heard a chipmunk laugh.

 

[vx700xtc]

Laughing chipmunks sound a lot like sticky secondaries, lol

 

[TrailxRider]

Cant say Ive ever heard a chipmunk laugh.

haha me either but if you've seen the chipmunk movie and then imagine them chuckling for a a few seconds that the best I can describe the sound and it's only when letting off throttle quick. If I slowly let off it doesn't do it. You guys are probably right and the sheaves are probably sticking a little since I can see some crud down where they slide over each other.

Nothing fancy, just watch carefully as you dissassemble.
Remove bolt from end of shaft (14mm). Place clutch on bench with the three nuts facing up. Remove the three nuts carefully and the clutch should stay together. Make a note of which hole the spring is in in the helix, Carefully pull the helix up off of the splines, it will require a little twisting, and be ready when it disengages the splines it will spin a little( hold your hand over the top and push down to keep it from flying apart.
After lifting the helix off be sure to make a note of which hole the spring is in in the sheave.
It sounds harder than it is , just look it over closely.
Reassembly is the reverse. When you go to reengage the splines you wll need to twist the helix just enough to get the ramp on the right side of the plastic sliders(3).
Puller is only for the primary.
Also, when you remove the clutch from the sled keep track of which washers are on what side of the clutch and reinstall the same way. Be carefull sometimes the washers stick to the clutch and then fall off later.

I did the process of removing the secondary from the shaft changed the helix and spring from installing the Ulmer kit. I just haven't taken the 2 secondary sheaves apart. I guess what I was trying to make sure is if I need anything special for removing and reinstalling the 2 secondary sheaves back together.

The crud and rough spots that I can see are on the sliding secondary where it goes into the fixed secondary clutch. When you separate the clutch and look down it, there's 3 sections that slide into the fixed secondary and this is where I'm pretty sure the problem is now. I'm pretty confident once I clean these the added friction will be gone and they will open and close like they are supposed to.