Sidewinder Belt Blowing

[jonlafon1]

Hello. I drove 1000 km on a belt. Noticed the scuffs. Can I keep riding it? Or is it better to replace?
Belt 8JP-17641-00-00
The edge tension is 1-1.5 mm.
The belt width is 34 mm.
View attachment 167320View attachment 167321View attachment 167323View attachment 167324

Looks like the belt(inner cogs) was scuffed while installing it or removing it.. If the secondary sheaves are not spread apart far enough while installing or removing belt this can happen.. The scuff marks are only on the spots on the belt in the picture? OR are they through out the entire belt? If your belt deflection is to tight which it appears to be > it could cause the scuffs also, but not likely unless you are running it really tight.. It would squeal at idle if this was the case? I would set your deflection so the belt is EVEN with the upper sheaves. Run it

 

[Yamarus]

Scuffs only in some places. There is no screeching at idle. You are probably right, too much tension rubs the belt (internal teeth) on the shaft of the primary pulley. I'll make a deflection at the level of the upper pulleys and take a look. Thanks.

 

[Sevey]

Hello. I drove 1000 km on a belt. Noticed the scuffs. Can I keep riding it? Or is it better to replace?
Belt 8JP-17641-00-00
The edge tension is 1-1.5 mm.
The belt width is 34 mm.
View attachment 167320View attachment 167321View attachment 167323View attachment 167324

My 8JP is doing the exact same thing, but the mileage is at 7000km on it. Time for a new one.
My deflection has not been set too high. Belt lasted 2 seasons which is good enough.

Not sure why yours would look like that after 1000km.
MS

 

[Sledroll]

My 8JP is doing the exact same thing, but the mileage is at 7000km on it. Time for a new one.
My deflection has not been set too high. Belt lasted 2 seasons which is good enough.

Not sure why yours would look like that after 1000km.
MS

From the pic , there appears to be wear on all the cogs , which ,I assume , is coming from the primary shaft .
This could be happening at idle , without causing creeping ?
Does the track rotate when on idling on a stand ?


Just adding my 2 cents worth , due to the fact that 12,000 klms. of trail have recently gone red , and I am not able today to trailer 7 hours to sled !!!

 

[Yamarus]

Most likely, belt wear is due to friction on the primary pulley. I probably raised the belt much higher than the plates, the caterpillar turned a little. Now I have made a belt exactly with plates. Yamaha recommends keeping the belt at the same level, probably because of this I have damage on the belt. In general, after a trip, especially in deep and heavy snow, I always let the turbine idle for a minute so that the turbine cools down, at this time the belt rubs.

 

[Kanatanon]

40 I think. What ever TP recommended

Not sure if mine is TP (Thunder Products?). But mine says used to be 6-1, but now they recommend 6-2 (80)

 

[Bigblue1]

I think a combination of proper rollers and the offset is the biggest thing. Once I went to 58.2 I Iwent from blowing belts every 400 miles the 1st year to no belts blown in five years.

 

[Kanatanon]

I think a combination of proper rollers and the offset is the biggest thing. Once I went to 58.2 I Iwent from blowing belts every 400 miles the 1st year to no belts blown in five years.

I borrowed a belt deflection tool from a friend, it’s from straight line performance and the numbers don’t go high enough, so it measures differently… says in the instructions to check for Yamaha specs at Totally Yamaha, but wondering if you are aware of what number would match up with the 58.2 you measured?

 

[Fleecer]

Not sure if mine is TP (Thunder Products?). But mine says used to be 6-1, but now they recommend 6-2 (80)

6-2 are specs for Dalton Black/orange.

 

[HABS 1]

Hurricane bar did not work on my 2022. It made my secondary be too close to jackshaft. After a 200 mile ride outside sheave (fixed) on secondary would have belt smear all over it, like excess friction marks and moveable sheave looked like brand new, literally didnt even look like a belt had ever contacted it. I was at 57.7mm offset with hurricane bar. I shimmed back out to 59.7ish and the smear dissapeared , temps got really cool and coloration between the 2 sheaves has equaled out. I have a friend with a 22 srx thats in the 59’s for offset as well and I believe jonaflon has shimmed out to the 59’s as well. Dont know if something is slightly different on the 22’s but that has been my experience. My 2020 is great with hurricane bar at 57.8mm offset.

blew my first belt ... 2021 set at 57.5 allso justinator... im wondering if i shoukd put the 1 mm shim back that it came with stock? ,xs had 729 mi /29.5 hrs on it, max17 tune ridden hard most all those miles... respectable belt time u think? allso reading posts some say theres break and cut like a knife.... mine shredded into a billion pieces and threds if that neans anything? secondly is 0g/bk wound 6-2 ....thinkin to go 6/3 as knapp mentioned... no belt smear on mine.... i mean if i got to put a belt on every 700 mi i will but be nice to get more out of it and not clean the fkn mess it makes !! looking for some professional opinions,,, appreciate it

 

[Simplespeed]

Your sled should have came with a 2 millimeter wide spacer in front of snap ring.. Adding back 1 millimeter would get you to 58.5 and more inline where you may find less heat and more belt life your looking for Imo . There are alot of variables when it comes to each sleds proper offset. You stated you were running hard for most of the 29.5 hours .. Did you at any time take a heat temperature reading on both clutches. Clutch set ups that have reduced friction allow belts to run cooler and therefore allow belts to run for many more hours.. Slippage is friction, friction builds heat, heat destroys belts..

 

[HABS 1]

Your sled should have came with a 2 millimeter wide spacer in front of snap ring.. Adding back 1 millimeter would get you to 58.5 and more inline where you may find less heat and more belt life your looking for Imo . There are alot of variables when it comes to each sleds proper offset. You stated you were running hard for most of the 29.5 hours .. Did you at any time take a heat temperature reading on both clutches. Clutch set ups that have reduced friction allow belts to run cooler and therefore allow belts to run for many more hours.. Slippage is friction, friction builds heat, heat destroys belts..

i did not take temp readings.... i will tske my temp gun with me and check readings once my new belt arrives... i allso never broke belts in allways just sent it not sure if thats critical...,what should the temps of cluches be at? so i know im in range? stub shaft moved in allso , once pressed back out i think i will aim for a little more offset with that spacer once i get it back together

 

[74Nitro]

If we're always so concerned about the stub shaft moving in 1mm, then we should be even more concerned with removing the float from the secondary as that can be up to 4-5mm.
The stub shaft can only move about one mm max, then it is up against the inner bearing.

 

[HABS 1]

If we're always so concerned about the stub shaft moving in 1mm, then we should be even more concerned with removing the float from the secondary as that can be up to 4-5mm.
The stub shaft can only move about one mm max, then it is up against the inner bearing.

kinda what iwas thinking, mine moved in 1/2 mm on feeler gage.... not really a job i want to do every time a belt blows , not bad at home but on a trip in a trailer id rather not...

 

[74Nitro]

kinda what iwas thinking, mine moved in 1/2 mm on feeler gage.... not really a job i want to do every time a belt blows , not bad at home but on a trip in a trailer id rather not...

That's about as far as it can move. Set the offset up with the stub shaft there.