WolfOne
VIP Member
Kråkan said:
With Timbersled tunnel rear and front susp, slydog skis and other minor stuff now i'm around 24 kg (53 lbs) less than the stock RTX.
Unfortunatly I've not comparison with stock MTX
At the end of the work i'll keep a detailed list of the weights
WolfOne
VIP Member
Sorry for the long silence but I was collecting all items I need for the step 2 
Yesterday night I take a part a lot of stuff to prepare the install of all new toys.
Remove brake line
I need to remove all the brake line because I’ll go to install a new pump and an aeronautic long line.
First step is to remove the parking brake (I didn’t use it again)
Unbolt with the Allen Wrench the 2 bolts
Than disconnect the spring and remove the bolt on the handlebar lever.
Pay attention to the sequence of bolt, shim, spacer if you need to reinstall this line
Remove the pump cap with a cross screwdriver.
Remove the white plastic cover.
Carefully remove the gasket. Pay attention that oil didn’t drop on the sled
To drain the line I used a big syringe. I hate to have sled or bike or floor dirt (especially with oil) and the syringe is very good and low cost method.
First empty the reservoir.
Than connect a hose to the caliper drainage bolt and the syringe on the other side of the hose.
Open the drainage, push the pump lever with one hand and pull the syringe with the other.
Repeat the sequence till oil stop to come out (there are 2 drainage on the caliper)
At last, unbolt the brake line from the caliper and free the line from the frame
A little of oil is always coming out so is better to protect the sled with a rag
Free gas cable from throttle lever side
You need just a small and flat screwdriver.
The nuts is pressed in the backside of the lever.
Just accelerate a little and push with the screwdriver into the fissure
Than you have to pull the cable from the left side of the lever till it comes out and than pull it down through the fissure under the lever’s block (sorry no pics).
Disconnect electric handlebar control
In the back of headlight there are 2 big connectors group (one on the left, one on the right).
Free them from plastic bands
Remove the rubber protection and mark the connectors (they have different forms but there are lots of connectors and a mark can help you when re-assembly)
At that point you can keep the handlebar away.
Remove headlight
Free the connections of the lamps and remove the 4 clips (2 par side) of the headlight frame
Remove steering post
Starting with the upper block, you have to bend down the nut holder with a screwdriver.
Than unbolt and remove the block
Pay attention to the sequence of the block (in the picture the lower block and you have to add the second black collar half)
You need to disconnect the steering link.
You can remove the pin and the nut and hammer out the bolt or
(I preferred)
you can free the counter nut on the arm and than rotate all the steering post without hammer nothing.
Now you can remove the lower collar of the steering post
Drain cooling line
To remove the airbox you need to remove the radiator … so you need to drain the line.
Lift the rear of the sled up
Remove the radiator cap and disconnect the small hose going to cooling reservoir.
If you let fall this hose on the ground , under the reservoir level, the liquid in the reservoir come out.
Put the hose in a low container and open the cap of the reservoir.
Put a low container under the thermostat big hose (right side of the sled, under the oil thank).
Disconnect the hose very slowly and carefully because the liquid come out very fast.
Unbolt the radiator (2 bolt par side)
Disconnect the big gray connector and the fan small connector.
Disconnect the big hoses from left and right side of the radiator
Remove the radiator.
Drain Oil
Unplug the connector on the top of the oil tank and remove the sensor
Remove the cap on the head of the engine
Put a container under the engine and unbolt the drainage bolt close to the oil filter (is the one with the triangle mark)
Remove the oil filter and remove the drainage bolt under the oil tank (sorry no pictures).
Remove Airbox
Unplug the air sensor on the left side of the airbox and remove the sensor unscrewing the cross screw
Unbolt the 2 front bolt
Open the collars loosen the 3 allen bolt on the throttle body side
Just to say … I love this tool that helps a lot to reach not easy bolts and screws
Disconnect the 2 upper hoses and the big one under the airbox
Now it’s 2.45 am and it’s time to go to sleep.
Tomorrow night I’ll go on with the supercharger install
Yesterday night I take a part a lot of stuff to prepare the install of all new toys.
Remove brake line
I need to remove all the brake line because I’ll go to install a new pump and an aeronautic long line.
First step is to remove the parking brake (I didn’t use it again)
Unbolt with the Allen Wrench the 2 bolts
Than disconnect the spring and remove the bolt on the handlebar lever.
Pay attention to the sequence of bolt, shim, spacer if you need to reinstall this line
Remove the pump cap with a cross screwdriver.
Remove the white plastic cover.
Carefully remove the gasket. Pay attention that oil didn’t drop on the sled
To drain the line I used a big syringe. I hate to have sled or bike or floor dirt (especially with oil) and the syringe is very good and low cost method.
First empty the reservoir.
Than connect a hose to the caliper drainage bolt and the syringe on the other side of the hose.
Open the drainage, push the pump lever with one hand and pull the syringe with the other.
Repeat the sequence till oil stop to come out (there are 2 drainage on the caliper)
At last, unbolt the brake line from the caliper and free the line from the frame
A little of oil is always coming out so is better to protect the sled with a rag
Free gas cable from throttle lever side
You need just a small and flat screwdriver.
The nuts is pressed in the backside of the lever.
Just accelerate a little and push with the screwdriver into the fissure
Than you have to pull the cable from the left side of the lever till it comes out and than pull it down through the fissure under the lever’s block (sorry no pics).
Disconnect electric handlebar control
In the back of headlight there are 2 big connectors group (one on the left, one on the right).
Free them from plastic bands
Remove the rubber protection and mark the connectors (they have different forms but there are lots of connectors and a mark can help you when re-assembly)
At that point you can keep the handlebar away.
Remove headlight
Free the connections of the lamps and remove the 4 clips (2 par side) of the headlight frame
Remove steering post
Starting with the upper block, you have to bend down the nut holder with a screwdriver.
Than unbolt and remove the block
Pay attention to the sequence of the block (in the picture the lower block and you have to add the second black collar half)
You need to disconnect the steering link.
You can remove the pin and the nut and hammer out the bolt or
(I preferred)
you can free the counter nut on the arm and than rotate all the steering post without hammer nothing.
Now you can remove the lower collar of the steering post
Drain cooling line
To remove the airbox you need to remove the radiator … so you need to drain the line.
Lift the rear of the sled up
Remove the radiator cap and disconnect the small hose going to cooling reservoir.
If you let fall this hose on the ground , under the reservoir level, the liquid in the reservoir come out.
Put the hose in a low container and open the cap of the reservoir.
Put a low container under the thermostat big hose (right side of the sled, under the oil thank).
Disconnect the hose very slowly and carefully because the liquid come out very fast.
Unbolt the radiator (2 bolt par side)
Disconnect the big gray connector and the fan small connector.
Disconnect the big hoses from left and right side of the radiator
Remove the radiator.
Drain Oil
Unplug the connector on the top of the oil tank and remove the sensor
Remove the cap on the head of the engine
Put a container under the engine and unbolt the drainage bolt close to the oil filter (is the one with the triangle mark)
Remove the oil filter and remove the drainage bolt under the oil tank (sorry no pictures).
Remove Airbox
Unplug the air sensor on the left side of the airbox and remove the sensor unscrewing the cross screw
Unbolt the 2 front bolt
Open the collars loosen the 3 allen bolt on the throttle body side
Just to say … I love this tool that helps a lot to reach not easy bolts and screws
Disconnect the 2 upper hoses and the big one under the airbox
Now it’s 2.45 am and it’s time to go to sleep.
Tomorrow night I’ll go on with the supercharger install
splaterwin
Veteran
What's up?
Waiting for the good stuff
Waiting for the good stuff
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
Bellissimo 
paltor
Newbie
wow
nice job....wish i could do to mine
nice job....wish i could do to mine
I see the end result in the avatar but what happened to the rest of the thread, this was a good one...can you post the finished pics Wolf?
WolfOne
VIP Member
UnfortunAtly i had the camera stoled 
But i have some pictures taken by phone and with my brother in law camera
I'll go to post the end of the work in a few days.
Sorry for delay but i was very disappointed with yhe lost of the pictures because this reduce the value of this post.
Sorry
But i have some pictures taken by phone and with my brother in law camera
I'll go to post the end of the work in a few days.
Sorry for delay but i was very disappointed with yhe lost of the pictures because this reduce the value of this post.
Sorry
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Sorry for your misfortune WolfOne :-(
Where do you ride, seeing you're from Italy, do you ride at home in Italy? Cool, guess you're the first Italian on TY....
BTW great build
I live on top of Europe in the town of Lakselv some 180 kms from the North Cape
Where do you ride, seeing you're from Italy, do you ride at home in Italy? Cool, guess you're the first Italian on TY....
BTW great build
I live on top of Europe in the town of Lakselv some 180 kms from the North Cape
WolfOne
VIP Member
rxrider said:Sorry for your misfortune WolfOne :-(
Where do you ride, seeing you're from Italy, do you ride at home in Italy? Cool, guess you're the first Italian on TY....
BTW great build
I live on top of Europe in the town of Lakselv some 180 kms from the North Cape
Yes, I ride on Alps in a very little (few sq kilometers) but very nice
I follow and enjoy your "ty mileage" each season
Your pictures remeber me the honeymoon snowmobile trip in Finland with my wife
WolfOne
VIP Member
WolfOne
VIP Member
Now a very nice job (after removed the radiator)
Modify Fuel Line and injectors
Disconnect the stock fuel hose from the fuel rail
Disconnect the throttle cable
Working from the front of the sled, disconnect the two hoses on the right and left of the carb block
Loose the 3 clamps of the rubber collars on the engine side
Disconnect wires all around and here it is your carb block with the fuel rail
Unbolt the fuel rail and remove the long spacers
Install the MPI spacers with their own bolts
Install on the carb block the MPI flange for the Intercooler.
Flat side up. Just a little of blue loctite.
Now, going back to the backside of the carb block, unscrew the fuel rail and remove it.
All works on carb block must be done on clean areas to avoid dirt to go in.
Pull out the injector (just pull)
Carefully remove the orange o-ring, from the top of the injector and the black slick rubber spacer on the other side and install them on the top of the new injector.
Re push the injectors in the fuel rail
Free and remove wire harness from the fuel rail
Re-install the fuel rail using the MPI spacers and bolts
Modify Fuel Line and injectors
Disconnect the stock fuel hose from the fuel rail
Disconnect the throttle cable
Working from the front of the sled, disconnect the two hoses on the right and left of the carb block
Loose the 3 clamps of the rubber collars on the engine side
Disconnect wires all around and here it is your carb block with the fuel rail
Unbolt the fuel rail and remove the long spacers
Install the MPI spacers with their own bolts
Install on the carb block the MPI flange for the Intercooler.
Flat side up. Just a little of blue loctite.
Now, going back to the backside of the carb block, unscrew the fuel rail and remove it.
All works on carb block must be done on clean areas to avoid dirt to go in.
Pull out the injector (just pull)
Carefully remove the orange o-ring, from the top of the injector and the black slick rubber spacer on the other side and install them on the top of the new injector.
Re push the injectors in the fuel rail
Free and remove wire harness from the fuel rail
Re-install the fuel rail using the MPI spacers and bolts
WolfOne
VIP Member
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Nice build
RedBull
Extreme
Good Job.
This will be most powerful Sled ever in Madesimo
Please send me a Message when you go riding in Madesimo. Then we see us on the first Snow
Greez Mike
This will be most powerful Sled ever in Madesimo
Please send me a Message when you go riding in Madesimo. Then we see us on the first Snow
Greez Mike
WolfOne
VIP Member
RedBull said:Good Job.
This will be most powerful Sled ever in Madesimo
Please send me a Message when you go riding in Madesimo. Then we see us on the first Snow
Greez Mike
someone at Extreme Team was out with sleds last sunday night
I'm going in Madesimo right now to speak with Guido ... i need the RTX tunnel i discharged last year to build a fiberglass model to work on ...
I'd like to have your opinion about some ideas I have put together about composite chassis and suspensions ... maybe we'll could have a dinner @MaiTardi
