Y-Pipe Repair Kit Opinions

bigreis

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2009 Nytro XTX
Wondering if anyone has experience with the Y-Pipe repair kits being sold on ebay? $135 for slip on flanges, new doughnuts and flange bolts sounds much better than dropping double that for new y pipes. Just wondering if it is too good to be true?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-snowmobi ... b6&vxp=mtr

Thanks in advance for any advice/opinions!
 
I've never seen or heard of this, I'm in the middle of replacing the exhaust pipes on my daughters RX1 now, what a PITA. this would be much easier. I'd love to hear how it works out.
 
I saw these last year when I did mine. They might be fine but my concern would be how they seal to the pipe, and if that seal will last. As far as being easier... well.... I think the flanges will require more work. You will still have to pull the pipes to cut the old flanges off as far as I can tell. Someone should try them and let us know how they work...
 
I put 2 of them on my Attak last year. Did not have to remove the pipe, only cut the old flange out and inserted the new one in. Very tight seal, no need to weld. So far, about 500 miles on them with no issue. I figured it was worth a try. Just put them on a Rage that had one bad flange. They appear to be well made and it beats taking the whole exhaust out if you don't need to.
 
Just put a set on this summer on my 06 apex will see how they work hopefully will be my backup sled in a couple yrs. Said he had someone sending him pipes with powervavles so he could make for them said it was $2000 for new pipes so this would be cheap fix hope they work good.
 
dmaxx said:
I put 2 of them on my Attak last year. Did not have to remove the pipe, only cut the old flange out and inserted the new one in. Very tight seal, no need to weld. So far, about 500 miles on them with no issue. I figured it was worth a try. Just put them on a Rage that had one bad flange. They appear to be well made and it beats taking the whole exhaust out if you don't need to.

I never thought about being able to make the repair without taking the pipes out! That is worth it right there! What did you use to cut the flanges off? I was thinking that a cutoff wheel on a die grinder or dremel tool would be about the only option... just worried that the Ti would be too hard to cut with cheap wheels.
 
Hopefully those of you bought this kit remember this thread and give us an update later in the season. It would be great if this kit was a viable solution.

I thought about trying this last year when I replaced my busted pipes. If nothing else, it might be a nice emergency spare set in case I had a ride planned but couldn't find a set of pipes or stock replacements were on backorder. I'm not really thrilled with the price but I might give it a try.
 
You need to slide the exhaust back, removed the bolts that hold the muffler on and slide exhaust back. You only need enough room to cut and replace. Use cut off wheel and then a file to smooth it out and remove metal chards. Insert new flange. I had to tap it in place as it is a tight fit. Make sure the flanges are even with each other then clamp them on. Main reason I tried this is because I wanted to ride the next weekend so time was an issue and the seller shipped them faster than I would have got a used set and tore all the way down. So far, so good.
 
dmaxx said:
You need to slide the exhaust back, removed the bolts that hold the muffler on and slide exhaust back. You only need enough room to cut and replace. Use cut off wheel and then a file to smooth it out and remove metal chards. Insert new flange. I had to tap it in place as it is a tight fit. Make sure the flanges are even with each other then clamp them on. Main reason I tried this is because I wanted to ride the next weekend so time was an issue and the seller shipped them faster than I would have got a used set and tore all the way down. So far, so good.

Did you use any sealant when slipping on the flanges as mentioned in the instructions?
 
I used Permatex orange
 
Do it Do it Do it. You will not be sorry.

We put the sleeve repair on 2 attaks last year pre-seson. One has 3500 new miles one has 1200 new miles. They work great and are three times thicker than the stock pipes and will not burn out the same way again.

I would never replace the pipe unless they change the design, just cut what you have and put the new sleeves on.

You install the collars by heating them with a torch to get them to expand and then pound them on. No welding, epoxy etc. it is a friction fit. If you take the pipes out you can stick them in a freezer and that helps a lot when doing it. If you want to keep the pipes in, wrap the pipes with ice as best you can, it will help.

We removed the pipes each time and did all the flanges. It guarantees they go on square and the same exact depth each (doing it on the bench). It is a project regardless of if you are replacing the pipes or not so we decided to do all 4 pipes at the same time (only 2 were bad on one machine and only one on the other).
 
Do it Do it Do it. You will not be sorry.

We put the sleeve repair on 2 attaks last year pre-seson. One has 3500 new miles one has 1200 new miles. They work great and are three times thicker than the stock pipes and will not burn out the same way again.

I would never replace the pipe unless they change the design, just cut what you have and put the new sleeves on.

You install the collars by heating them with a torch to get them to expand and then pound them on. No welding, epoxy etc. it is a friction fit. If you take the pipes out you can stick them in a freezer and that helps a lot when doing it. If you want to keep the pipes in, wrap the pipes with ice as best you can, it will help.

We removed the pipes each time and did all the flanges. It guarantees they go on square and the same exact depth each (doing it on the bench). It is a project regardless of if you are replacing the pipes or not so we decided to do all 4 pipes at the same time (only 2 were bad on one machine and only one on the other).
Thanks for the update. Did you use copper or oem donuts?
 


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