tjc
Expert
Yeah I was thinking the same. I have tried every which way to save it but the mount on mine is right over it.
dirk_03
Expert
tjc said:
I will likely machine a new inlet for it and wel it on once i have the motor in place. I know on the last yamadoo I had removed the front cooler. I have the 05 rt so it has the super big tunnel cooler so I don't need the front cooler for the engine but I think it would be sweet for a water to air setup.
dirk_03
Expert
If I do a water to air a aluminum bung welded in with a 90 to a hose barb would work best for the outlet and inlet. Time will tell. For now the upper inlet has to go. If I don't do water to air I still may use the cooler but I will need to move the inlet. Have to see how it works out.
dirk_03
Expert
Here is a very poor pic of a rough cutout of the design I am working on. Easy to cut out the first pc in tag board. This was the first attempt of the drawing from autoCAD for fit up. I am happy with it. I think a couple revisions and I will cut a panel out of sheet aluminum and clamp it to get my jackshaft and mounting hole locations then measure off my reference points and draw them in on CAD. Then it should be as simple as cleaning it up. Adding alot of holes to make it light and then onto machining the 3/8" aluminum. Granted this is not going to happen overnight. . . LOL.
A funny Note. The way the bracket turned out looks alot like the neck of a Canada Goose so I will refer to it as the goozeneck bracket.
A funny Note. The way the bracket turned out looks alot like the neck of a Canada Goose so I will refer to it as the goozeneck bracket.
Attachments
dirk_03
Expert
Aluminum mockup plate cut. I will be bolting this to the bulkhead and marking hole locations and then transfer them to the cad file. Then I should have a drawing to cut my final parts off of.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Looking good.
dirk_03
Expert
Sportsterdanne said:
Hopefully get the side plates done this week. I need to get the supercharger bracket location nailed down and then I can mill on the final plates. The chaincase should be here this week as well.
After the plates I will likely work on the header and muffler. Then supercharger brackets. And last major thing will be the intercooler and steering. With the steering on the last yamadoo it was a real pain to pull the carbs off and even harder to get them back on. This is something I hope to address on this one. As that needs to be easy to do for tuning. Also want to incorporate a vertical style steering post as I am used to that now and maybe even adjustable from vertical to horizontal.
I'm pretty pumped to not have to worry about making a custom gas tank and custom seat pan. Fit and finish will be factory perfect. The only difference will be completely under the hood.
Finally I have a paint scheme idea for this sled that is going to be very out there and unique.
dirk_03
Expert
Final CAD drawing for clutch side. The mag side is done to but ended up being a little different due to mounting the supercharger and the chaincase. Now just to find time to machine them.
They should be right around 3 lbs each. I figure not to bad for something that is going to be super strong.
They should be right around 3 lbs each. I figure not to bad for something that is going to be super strong.
Attachments
tjc
Expert
thats awesome, is the hole to the left of the jackshaft the motor mount hole?
dirk_03
Expert
tjc said:
The big round hole is jackshaft. The motor mount holes are one there two but small for when I machine it and I will drill them out after machining.
tjc
Expert
so out of curiosity what did you base the motor mount hole distance on? Did you get measurements from a Yamaha chassis and put them in CAD? I guess another way to put it is how did you determine the distance for the belt (clutch center to center)?
dirk_03
Expert
tjc said:
Yamaha ctc from a vector. 10.6 or so inches. Honestly just aligned the motor, then used a transfer punch to mark the locations. Then measured my marks and drew it up.
dirk_03
Expert
Well lets just say I burned a $50 bill today. Here is the side plate I cut after work today. See on the front it gets super thin. Yeah not so good. Something about max arc. There are a couple compound arcs in this area and the cam software didn't like it and I did not catch it on the graphics. I will recut them in the morning. Looks like everything is going to line up.
Chaincase and jackshaft got here from skidooinit. So was nice to see that as well. He had the jackshaft remachined for a yamaha clutch so that's awesome.
Chaincase and jackshaft got here from skidooinit. So was nice to see that as well. He had the jackshaft remachined for a yamaha clutch so that's awesome.
tjc
Expert
cool setup. I see on snowest you are planning to re-do it since it is thin.
I assume from what you have planned here you plan to run the aluminum under the chaincase right off the tunnel. On mine I have .25" aluminum and I realized yesterday it wont fit under the chancase. I will have to move the chaincase out about 1/8". Do you think that will mess with the driveshaft seal? Do you have a plan for that? I know the jackshaft can move a bit but I was hoping to not have to move the drivers.
I assume from what you have planned here you plan to run the aluminum under the chaincase right off the tunnel. On mine I have .25" aluminum and I realized yesterday it wont fit under the chancase. I will have to move the chaincase out about 1/8". Do you think that will mess with the driveshaft seal? Do you have a plan for that? I know the jackshaft can move a bit but I was hoping to not have to move the drivers.
dirk_03
Expert
tjc said:
I am moving my chaincase 3/8" out. I am going to move the bearing in 3/8" on the clutch side as well. I will have to get a little creative likely on the driveshaft but am not to worried about it 3/8" is not to much for spacer on the drivshaft.
Here are some pics of the somewhat finished project. I am going to put the final holes in together and I will likely add a few more lightening holes as well in the big solid area. Right now the weight of these two is. 6.14lbs. A small price to pay weight wise for alot of strength. They are so beefy I may remove or modify the steel bracing on the inside of the bulkhead area on the RT. My guess is that weighs a couple lbs and it not really needed.
