Gyps - i got some more pics for you of the coolant heater...this is definitely it...same as posted before...
Larger view, see it on the left/bottom...
The wires go between the oil tank and the fan, through the bulkhead...
This is a shot between the oil tank and the fan, see the black plug way back there in the middle? That's attached to the back of the coolant heater in the first couple pics...again, the heater is installed between where the coolant goes into the motor on the front of the motor and the bulkhead, it is not installed in the area containing the fan/oil tank/battery.
Another shot of it, bottom left...click any of the pics to enlarge...
Okay - I found the damned coolant leak! No thanks to my dealer...lol
Anywho, I topped it up, let it run till it shut itself down (overheat protection) and then started randomly squeezing the hoses and BAM one of them starting spraying antifreeze like mad! The hose was coming off the base a little and the clamp was not positioned properly to hold it on.
I learned a few things while I was doing this. I ran the sled until it shut down without the airbox in place. I even took the belly pan off so I could get under there to look for leaks. Anywho, the oil breather hose that goes into the airbox - it exhausts warm air, it does not suck in air. The other 3 hoses, one on the airbox (small) and the little tiny two hoses that plug into the electrical connectors (on the bottom of them) suck air in.
Since the airbox hose for the oil breather pushes air out/exhausts, those who tip their sleds over or roll it, shut it off right away, don't let it sit there and idle because I think that would continuously pump oil out of the hose while the engine is running if it is tipped the wrong way.
Also, re-routing that oil breather within the airbox may not work as well as I hoped...the bottom of the airbox filled with ice buildup today from powder riding, and the oil breather hose was half jammed with ice. I'm not sure what would happen if it became totally plugged up and could no longer relieve pressure...I imagine something would blow, thus its important for the end of it to steer clear of debris, although I think it should have its own spot outside of the airbox so that you don't end up dumping oil into your intake filter when the sled tips during powder riding or whatever.
Also, when letting my machine shut down on overheat mode, I noticed my fan didn't turn on. Turns out I blew a fuse! I'm not sure why...it could be because snow build-up prevented the fan from turning earlier in the day, and it blew a fuse...I'm just guessing, but as soon as that fan stopped working out on the trail today my overheat light came on...that's proof in the pudding, phazers NEED the fan!
Also, indy - my skid plate bolts have spacers built into them...they're one piece...same as yours or?
A few other points to note...guys are complaining about greasing their sleds, and that the grease escapes out these little vents beside the zerks...well, I gotta say, how slow are you pumping grease into them??? I stuck my gun on and starting pumping it until the grease was flowing out the ends of the shafts and I barely lost any grease outside these little vents beside the zerks, so I really don't think they are that big a deal. And someone also commented on the chassis needing to be greased more often than the manual recommends to preserve the bushings, well, after 3300 km's, only 700 shy of what the manual recommends, I have to say that the suspension was still full of grease and it didn't require much, so I think that yammi's 4000 km interval is pretty accurate myself.
Also, for those who don't know about their fuses, its good to know where they are, which ones are spares, and which ones power what. They are labelled on the inside of the fusebox covers...
Ever see underneath the motor?
I gotta say, tearing this sled down so many times as I have, the panels are a bit of a pain and you have to take the airbox off every time to get at anything in there, and it really doesn't take long, however, every bolt and thread that you unscrew and re-screw needs to be done with extra caution...the threads on these machines are right in the frame of every component, so I would hate to screw up one of the threads...be extra careful when putting bolts back into place. When I had the belly pan off, I found that threaded clip that fell off for the headlight pod. hehehe
This was my first time removing the skid plate and the belly pan. It made me realise how I could have cut a better skid plate out of puck board!! What a rip off those things are! LOL
At this rate with all these tear downs I've done, I'm in line for the world's fastest oil change when it comes time to doing it in the next couple weeks.