STAIN
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Well after contacting a number of reputable shock rebuilders about a revalve on the G-FORCE shocks and getting so-so answers I have decieded to do it myself. I am attempting to soften up the compression a little and add some rebound control. After studying the exploded view I have removed 2 30x0.203 shims from the compression side and added them to the rebound side on the top valve stack. I am not sure how big a change this will make but it can't be any worse.
I have rebuilt many a shock, I just don't have a lot of expierence on revalving and how much or little to add on the valve stack. Also with both shocks on 1 arm it makes me wonder if adjustments should be made little by little.
I guess there is one way to learn--do it yourself!!
I have rebuilt many a shock, I just don't have a lot of expierence on revalving and how much or little to add on the valve stack. Also with both shocks on 1 arm it makes me wonder if adjustments should be made little by little.
I guess there is one way to learn--do it yourself!!
STAIN
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The one that disturbes me is that during disassebly both shocks were down about 75 psi from spec--were they ever fully charged? This makes a big difference in how they might have preformed. HMMM
STAIN
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One more observation, the rebound valve stack shims are almost all blued from being overheated/ overworked, more evidence this skid may be oversprung and/or under dampened. They are rebuilt and ready for snow---which is almost amonth away
Stain, I wish I had your knowledge and I would try myself also. What is the minimum amount of equipment you need to do this yourself? What is the cost to get set-up?
I modified the spring adjustment collar like I mentioned in another post. Basically it adds 2 positions below the 0 setting. It was easy with just a hacksaw and file. This gives me about 1/4 inch less preload on the spring. At 0 the spring was compressed a 1/2 inch vs the not installed height, so this leaves still a 1/4 inch preload.
After inspecting the lower shock bushings I found that mine are worn (service bulleting #2). When I initial looked I was looking for wearing on the shaft but it is the part of the spacer that fits into the base of the shock that was worn. I'm going to cut this portion off and then install a bronze bushing in its place.
I modified the spring adjustment collar like I mentioned in another post. Basically it adds 2 positions below the 0 setting. It was easy with just a hacksaw and file. This gives me about 1/4 inch less preload on the spring. At 0 the spring was compressed a 1/2 inch vs the not installed height, so this leaves still a 1/4 inch preload.
After inspecting the lower shock bushings I found that mine are worn (service bulleting #2). When I initial looked I was looking for wearing on the shaft but it is the part of the spacer that fits into the base of the shock that was worn. I'm going to cut this portion off and then install a bronze bushing in its place.
STAIN
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My lower bushing was alright, revolver bushings gone.
To get started you need a tank of nitrogen, set of regulators, charging needle and whatever specility tools you might need to disassemble and set floating piston depth on the schocks you plan on rebuilding. Also an old Arctic Cat performance manual will give step by step directions to rebuild Fox shocks. Extreme care and should taken when servicing shocks and a little mistake can get you hurt. You are probaly looking at @ $350-$450 to get started.
I started doing them because I got sick of sending my shocks out and waitng for them to return, and those old Fox shocks needed constant attention! . Also because I believe that if you want something done right it is best to do it yourself if possible
To get started you need a tank of nitrogen, set of regulators, charging needle and whatever specility tools you might need to disassemble and set floating piston depth on the schocks you plan on rebuilding. Also an old Arctic Cat performance manual will give step by step directions to rebuild Fox shocks. Extreme care and should taken when servicing shocks and a little mistake can get you hurt. You are probaly looking at @ $350-$450 to get started.
I started doing them because I got sick of sending my shocks out and waitng for them to return, and those old Fox shocks needed constant attention! . Also because I believe that if you want something done right it is best to do it yourself if possible
STAIN
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update. just rode my revalved zx2 shocks for the first time and it does seem better. hard to tell today beacause it was so soft out. could still use some more rebound control. it is better but not yet PERFECT. I will ride it like this for a while before decieding whether to adjust some more
skippydoo
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shocks
I can help, Post the valve stacks along with how many bleed slits and I can put a hpg shock together and run it on my dyno. I'll then make changes to help your needs. The hpg ski doo shocks or the same except for the added g force bottoming addon which makes no diffference during the first inches of travel.
I can help, Post the valve stacks along with how many bleed slits and I can put a hpg shock together and run it on my dyno. I'll then make changes to help your needs. The hpg ski doo shocks or the same except for the added g force bottoming addon which makes no diffference during the first inches of travel.
STAIN
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skippy do==when tuning a shock which valve shim size do you address first? I guess I am asking what would you do first when trying to slow rebound down slightly?
skippydoo
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STAIN said:skippy do==when tuning a shock which valve shim size do you address first? I guess I am asking what would you do first when trying to slow rebound down slightly?
How many bleed slits does the piston have? Rebound is low speed only, no need to consider high speed rebound when valving. if your first shim is a 26x254 and the 2nd on is alot smaller then going to a bigger 2nd shim will help. Whats your current rebound stack? Valving is quite an art. Sometimes you would wear your going stiffer and then it feels softer. Thats the nice thing about having a dyno.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Stain
I'm a rookie do it yourselfer also, working only on my own stuff. On this Yammi/ProX conversion project I had to install a much stiffer rear spring which of course totally overwhelmed the OEM rebound valving. I ended up adding a second shim in the stack the same size as the original first one if that helps you any.
I'm a rookie do it yourselfer also, working only on my own stuff. On this Yammi/ProX conversion project I had to install a much stiffer rear spring which of course totally overwhelmed the OEM rebound valving. I ended up adding a second shim in the stack the same size as the original first one if that helps you any.
STAIN
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skippy--it seems the piston has 2 slits? these are the first HPG shocks that I have done and the piston ( as you know ) is quite a bit different fron fox or ryde fx shocks that I am used to.
STAIN
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Did another revalve and went for a good ride Sat. It seems this new valving this time really works much better. This skid is FINALLY starting to go through the small trail chatter the way I like it and still handle the large bumps well. Still not PERFECT but getting real close
kinger
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Awesome keep up the good work and if you get something please post the valve stack info!
rxrider
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Good work STAIN, keep us posted
kinger
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Stain - find a godo combo? I'm getting more picky and want the stutter bumps to disappear with my ZX2. Thanks!
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