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I got up north to fix clutches/studs only to find out that the woody's rep was wrong on the length of stud that I have (He thought I had 1.575" studs, turns out I have 1.450" studs). Odds are I am not going to be able to get replacements in time for a 5 day trip next week, although I will try...
Better than the luck I had. Bought a sled with 1200 miles on it, falsely assumed the studs were torqued right. Ended up losing 21 of them in the 500 miles I put on the machine (didn't check when we stopped for the night)...
Here is one that was pulled out of the track. Just want to confirm with the experts on here these are the 1.325" studs correct? I think they are the 1.325" but they could be the 1.45" version as well. Just want to make certain I am ordering the right replacements.
I have always hooked up to the lower A-arms right by the frame with a nice strap that hooks back to itself (no metal hooks on the A-arms) and had a person ride to steer and brake on the dead sled. Never bent anything or scratched A-arms that way including pulling my buddies dead ditch pickle...
I will tighten them all down and loctite them on. Is there any possibility that they may have been broken off completely? I know I bent a few on rocks running in such marginal snow conditions.
My buddy removed a stud, it appears to be the grand master, it has the 6 anti spin lines on the head, it looks like the signature doesn't have those. He also noted "no way the nuts were backing off, have to be breaking them off" I have never had issues with this on past sleds but it could be...
I wouldn't expect a sled with 1800 miles total to have loose studs already though. I put studs in my old Polaris Fusions and never had to touch them for 6k miles on each sled.
I am still unclear, having a friend who is up by the sled measure the plate and head today, that should give a pretty good idea of what studs they are.
I guess the reason I didn't really consider the gold diggers is the color difference. The gold diggers are shown as having a brass appearance in every photo I can see online, these are very much so bare steel.
Finally got to put some real miles on my winder, the idiot who installed the studs (I bought the sled used) didn't tighten any of them down and I am an idiot for not checking.... Long story short I lost 20 studs in 500 miles.
Can anyone tell what model stud these are so I can replace the...
I have quit even idling up to 190. I just give the sled about a minute to cool down the turbo/block and shut it off because I am usually waiting a while for my buddies who all ride 600 class sleds.
I ended up making my own tester, was able to fill up to 25PSI using my M12 inflator and it took ~45-60 seconds to bleed down with no significant changes in the speed it was bleeding off. This leads me to believe that what leaks if any I have are minor enough to not matter to the turbo...
Hmmm, If only I had a few days before going back up north....
How harmful would it be to run the sled for a while with what appears to be a minor leak (down ~1psi from expected)? I know I am losing power, but for now that doesn't matter that much (still was able to bury every 850 doo in my...
After having my sled out last weekend I noticed I was only making 15.5 PSI of boost on a TD max spool 16 tune. I would like to run a quick leak test tonight when I get up north again. Does anyone know the charge tube ID so I can buy fittings to put together a leak tester today?
Finally got the sidewinder out for the first time this year yesterday. Western UP has snow but it is very early conditions.
However, within the first 50 miles or so, my new linq bag broke. I had maybe 5-10ibs of stuff in the bag and the plastic base snapped at the 4 mount points.
Does...
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