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Somewhere I read where you can take the control rod apart and put an o-ring in there that will help with the metal on metal contact noise. But for some reason I can't find the info anywhere.
My guess is they still suck. For a quick check, unplug one of the grips and measure the resistance. If it's in the 7 ohm ranage, they didn't do squat. And if it's not in the 4 ohm range, they didn't do enough...
Welterracer, I doubt they increased the voltage (even though the magazine...
Prepare yourself to be laughed at by Yamaha. They're not going to cover it under warranty and if anything is bent/broken then you DID hit something... no matter what your side of the story is.
OK... I'll get off my "rant box" now....
Thanks Yamadoo!
I was actually hoping that the ProAction and the Mono worked more similarly, and that I could make this thing not bottom out on every bump without revalving the shock. LOL
On the old no-action ProAction suspension, when you increased the gap on the transfer rods to get more transfer, you also caused the suspension to be un-coupled longer and made it ride softer and it had more of a tendency to bottom out.
Questions is, is there any correlation between the...
Well... if she ever decides to get into the sport wouldn't it be the gentlemanly thing to do and go buy her a brand new sled of her choice?
Oh... and yes, those are Aprils... ;)
If any of you guys want to test a real fix that will not hurt the ECU and give you full range of adjustment, let me know and I'll post the circuit to use and the parts to buy. Should cost less than $25. I bought all the parts but didn't have time to get it done befor the TY Muni ride last...
Sorry guys, that big boy spring isn't going to cut it and isn't the answer. The shock needs some serious work. Stiffening up the spring may help keep it from bottoming but then when you do compress it the rebound will about throw you over the front. Mine bottomed all weekend and I have my...
Thank guys! I'll probably be adding some since I think it's at or just over the REV line... still makes me think there's not much in there since it didn't seem like I put much in before I checked it and then drained a bunch out before getting it back down to the REV line.
What's that 250 ml work out to in ounces for us non-conformists... LOL
Anybody else? I know when I started to fill I was used to my SRX that takes ~7-8 oz and I put some in and then checked it and ended up having to drain a whole bunch out. Just want to make sure I run it where it's...
Where is everyone running their chain case oil level on the Apex/Attack with reverse? I drained mine out when I changed it before checking where it was at and there seems to be some discrepancies as to which level to fill to. The REV only has about 1/8" on the stick which seems very low and I...
To the Electrically Uneducated eye I'm sure both systems look the same. And if you don't know how to check or what you're checking, then I suppose you would have to believe what you read on a piece of paper.
But here's my take on it... I haven't measured them myself but from what I can tell...
Hinkman, I'm not a big fan of the variable resister just because of the extra parts but think that circuit design is basically what I had in mind.
Couple questions... Why the .8 - .9 ohm current limiting resister for the gate? And why are you using a transistor instead of a power MOSFET...
No no no... LOL
That Hotgrips unit just does exactly what the signal coming from our ECU does... creates a PWM signal.
Think of a relay... it's basically a switch that can carry a high current but is opened and closed by a different source that is usually very low current.
Our PWM...
All right all you electrical wizards... Why couldn't you use (or maybe someone that remembers more of that crap than I do could design the circuit) a FET or MOSFET to power the grips straight off the battery and drive it with the PWM signal from the ECU so that you could still control them from...
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