0/30 semi synthetic or 0/40 full?

[Purplecoffin]

Thanks, it's the little things sometimes! Would have never thought about that.

 

[KnappAttack]

Thanks, it's the little things sometimes! Would have never thought about that.

It's the little thing that add up that give you that edge! I'm kinda a freak that way and will do every little thing the next guys not thinking about. May even mix up some 0-20 and 0-30 for a 0-25 to see the gains, but must approach that slowly and do oil sampling to make sure nothings wearing prematurely.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

It's the little thing that add up that give you that edge! I'm kinda a freak that way and will do every little thing the next guys not thinking about. May even mix up some 0-20 and 0-30 for a 0-25 to see the gains, but must approach that slowly and do oil sampling to make sure nothings wearing prematurely.

Mike I ran the redline 5w20 in apex for 8 seasons....always a 120mph sled NA.

I just got cheap and started using walmart mobil 1 tho....lol

 

[KnappAttack]

Mike I ran the redline 5w20 in apex for 8 seasons....always a 120mph sled NA.

I just got cheap and started using walmart mobil 1 tho....lol

Right, but a much higher RPM engine on the Apex. The Winder is lower RPM and has more pressure with way higher BMEP's pushing down from the pistons. 20 weight may be pushing it.

Would like to see Hurricane do a dyno test on some 0-20 to see the gains and make sure oil pressure is there too.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Right, but a much higher RPM engine on the Apex. The Winder is lower RPM and has more pressure with way higher BMEP's pushing down from the pistons. 20 weight may be pushing it.

Would like to see Hurricane do a dyno test on some 0-20 to see the gains and make sure oil pressure is there too.

I hear ya.....I know the redline has very high film strength and twice the zinc levels as the mobil 1. And did well in tests.

On a similar subject, we used to run the thinner redline chaincase lube....maybe gaining some resistance factor in the case. I have not run it since the apex though. Just amsoil chaincase now but wondered if this may help.

 

[Doc Harley]

JTmetal....Im not very liked on doo talk lol....i made a post about all the 850s i beat on the lake yesterday and they all think I am you!!

Lol! Sorry bud. Being mistaken for me on dootalk isn't cool. Hahaha. Hope you get things figured out.

 

[Fast]

You will have reduced performance with 40 weight in place of 30 due to pumping losses.

Seen if firsthand on my old RX-1. 40 weight made it a slug. Replaced it with 30 weight and performance came right back.

Found this and thought i would share it, yamaha specialists are encouraging us to use 0w40

Randy Strickler

I agree that it is somewhat confusing that the owner’s manual tells you to use 0W-30 weight oil, but the dealer has some 0W-40 on the shelf. I checked with Yamaha’s lubricant specialist on this one to be very certain, and he confirmed that the full-synthetic 0W-40 can indeed be used in any of Yamaha’s four-stroke snowmobiles. In fact, he encouraged it. While the semi-synthetic 0W-30 is a very good oil, as you pointed out it has a cold pumpability specification down to -40 F. The full-synthetic 0W-40 will perform even better in cold conditions and has a cold pumpability specification of down to -60 F. That means whatever temperature it is outside when you go to start your sled, the full-synthetic will start flowing quicker and easier.
As an extra benefit, the full-synthetic is ester fortified, which is going to provide superior protection under high RPM conditions and high heat loads and is part of the reason the full-synthetic costs more. Ester has a little bit of polarity so it sticks to the metal parts. Another cool benefit is how when more pressure is applied to it, the more slippery it gets. The engine parts will stay very clean as this oil is very low in sulfated ash, so you won’t be seeing a bunch of sludge in the engine like with some other full-synthetic oils. This is the good stuff, and there is no better oil you can buy to protect your investment. This is what we use in our Yamaha four-strokes.

 

[woodysattak]

All I can say is Mike and Dan are correct. Took minr in for a little warranty work and figured I would have them do the first oil change. They put in 0-40 synthetic. Well went home and took out following weekend and noticed it didn't seem to pull the same rpms and just seemed slower. At first thought was just snow conditions and never thought it was the oil. It just never felt as strong as it did with the 0-30. But I will be changing out the oil this summer. I ran 0-20 in the attak and gained 200 rpms. Will be going to 5w- 30 in winder. Thanks guys.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

All I can say is Mike and Dan are correct. Took minr in for a little warranty work and figured I would have them do the first oil change. They put in 0-40 synthetic. Well went home and took out following weekend and noticed it didn't seem to pull the same rpms and just seemed slower. At first thought was just snow conditions and never thought it was the oil. It just never felt as strong as it did with the 0-30. But I will be changing out the oil this summer. I ran 0-20 in the attak and gained 200 rpms. Will be going to 5w- 30 in winder. Thanks guys.

 

[Fast]

All I can say is Mike and Dan are correct. Took minr in for a little warranty work and figured I would have them do the first oil change. They put in 0-40 synthetic. Well went home and took out following weekend and noticed it didn't seem to pull the same rpms and just seemed slower. At first thought was just snow conditions and never thought it was the oil. It just never felt as strong as it did with the 0-30. But I will be changing out the oil this summer. I ran 0-20 in the attak and gained 200 rpms. Will be going to 5w- 30 in winder. Thanks guys.

It would be nice to see the msds sheets on the yamalube oil, i started this post because i wanted to stay stock and take advantage of the extra warranty but was unsure which oil to use 0w30 or 0w40,i have no doubt Mike and Dan are correct. Does yamaha make a 0w30 full synthetic? What about the semi synthetic oil coking the turbo bearings i never heard of that until now

 

[Fast]

Right, but a much higher RPM engine on the Apex. The Winder is lower RPM and has more pressure with way higher BMEP's pushing down from the pistons. 20 weight may be pushing it.

Would like to see Hurricane do a dyno test on some 0-20 to see the gains and make sure oil pressure is there too.

How do we get the oil pressure on our stock gauge again , was it push and hold the top left button?

 

[Fast]

well i got 123mph on the lake today with 0-40 syn

was that speedometer or gps?

 

[KnappAttack]

All I can say is Mike and Dan are correct. Took minr in for a little warranty work and figured I would have them do the first oil change. They put in 0-40 synthetic. Well went home and took out following weekend and noticed it didn't seem to pull the same rpms and just seemed slower. At first thought was just snow conditions and never thought it was the oil. It just never felt as strong as it did with the 0-30. But I will be changing out the oil this summer. I ran 0-20 in the attak and gained 200 rpms. Will be going to 5w- 30 in winder. Thanks guys.

Found the same effect on my old RX-1, after all, who would think someone would actually feel it in the seat of the pants right? Well I did, and I just knew it felt lame with the 40 weight oil in there. When I couldn't outrun my buddys 800 REV I knew my butt dyno was accurate, because I could always out run him before, so we both came back to my place and I drained that 40 weight oil and filled er up with 30 weight oil. Low and behold the power came back and I knew it right away, we lined up and see you latter 800 Rev, away I went driving away from him agian.

These guys can go ahead and put the 40 weight stuff in and ride around with less power, but just wanted to warn them it will be like putting the brakes on the engines power. It's not fake news, but real news. Some will listen and some will not, but the Winder does not need 40 weight oil in it that is certain.

Some people just don't understand fluid dynamics, and some do. I just flat out takes more power to pump a higher viscosity oil than is needed. Pro stock cars run straight 0 or 2 weight oil for a reason! Why give up power when you don't have to right?

 

[Hammer70]

This oil stuff is bizarre I run 0/40 full synthetic yamalube my sled stock gear went 127 mph in hurricane flash then at 0 degrees weather sled running 195 with a 22/41 gear run 132 mph both on gps so my sled would go faster with oil change I think it’s pretty bang on from what others seen and tell me ? Just would like input on this not dissing anyone here.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

This oil stuff is bizarre I run 0/40 full synthetic yamalube my sled stock gear went 127 mph in hurricane flash then at 0 degrees weather sled running 195 with a 22/41 gear run 132 mph both on gps so my sled would go faster with oil change I think it’s pretty bang on from what others seen and tell me ? Just would like input on this not dissing anyone here.

I think you are missing the point.

Sure we have crazy big power with these turbos and flashes....that is undeniable.

Mike more or less stumbled onto this back in the day of NA engine with less power, and it was easy to see due to a riding buddy who he always could beat. This made it clear for him, especially after changing oil back to w30.

Trying to say my sled does a certain speed with 40weight is never gonna be a way to prove this. And to go further, I dont even think a same day same radar speed will prove it. Just too many variables.

This reminds me of a saying we used to have....'With more power, the easier it is to setup clutching'. Once you go with a turbo and a tune, the clutching may not be perfect, but the sled still is ultra fast. Same thing with oil viscosity, You may run 40 weight oil, and still run huge speeds on GPS. Its just that those speeds would likely be a tad faster with 30weight.

Dan