stgdz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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So I need some help here, I've got the following done
137 tcat, I believe a rip1 1.25
Rear block at 3
Straps all the way out
4 trail studs per bar
I pretty much have zero traction at anything about 1/4 throttle and I can't hook. Once it gets to 40 it goes. Is this normal? It's just not transferring back, I have to feather the throttle at take off to prevent track spin and slowly roll on.
Most of the snow around here or where I have ridden has been really loose snow.
137 tcat, I believe a rip1 1.25
Rear block at 3
Straps all the way out
4 trail studs per bar
I pretty much have zero traction at anything about 1/4 throttle and I can't hook. Once it gets to 40 it goes. Is this normal? It's just not transferring back, I have to feather the throttle at take off to prevent track spin and slowly roll on.
Most of the snow around here or where I have ridden has been really loose snow.
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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Studs won't do much if the snow conditions are really soft. Bigger lug track, like 1.5" may be a better option. Hard conditions would yield way better results with lower profile track and studs.
0degC
Pro
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What sledfreak said. But you can take blocks off shaft and just use shaft, will transfer a bit moreSo I need some help here, I've got the following done
137 tcat, I believe a rip1 1.25
Rear block at 3
Straps all the way out
4 trail studs per bar
I pretty much have zero traction at anything about 1/4 throttle and I can't hook. Once it gets to 40 it goes. Is this normal? It's just not transferring back, I have to feather the throttle at take off to prevent track spin and slowly roll on.
Most of the snow around here or where I have ridden has been really loose snow.
jonlafon1
Lifetime Member
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2024 Catalyst RXC
2017 Sidewinder LTX-SE. 11750 miles (SOLD)
Yes start with thisBut you can take blocks off shaft and just use shaft, will transfer a bit more
DranttelSS
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Loose snow traction with these is difficult. I would say 1.5" track minimum to get any kind of hook in those conditions. Removing the coupler blocks is a good start.
Sledroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
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2017 SW LTX LE
I not only removed the blocks , but also moved the bar back about an inch , and welded bigger touch pads onto the arm where it hits the bar , for more transfer of the 137.Loose snow traction with these is difficult. I would say 1.5" track minimum to get any kind of hook in those conditions. Removing the coupler blocks is a good start.
jonlafon1
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Instead of hammering the throttle to the bar do a easy consistent pull. Lots of ski lift is not faster!
Sledroll
TY 4 Stroke Master
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2017 SW LTX LE
It appears from my experience's that the 137 coupled skid does not really lift the skis much , no matter what you do to it .Instead of hammering the throttle to the bar do a easy consistent pull. Lots of ski lift is not faster!
This is good .
jonlafon1
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The 22 especially.. I still find it to hook better if you ease(slightly) into the throttle especially under 40 MPH..It appears from my experience's that the 137 coupled skid does not really lift the skis much , no matter what you do to it .
This is good .
Simplespeed
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Stock or tuned sled ?So I need some help here, I've got the following done
137 tcat, I believe a rip1 1.25
Rear block at 3
Straps all the way out
4 trail studs per bar
I pretty much have zero traction at anything about 1/4 throttle and I can't hook. Once it gets to 40 it goes. Is this normal? It's just not transferring back, I have to feather the throttle at take off to prevent track spin and slowly roll on.
Most of the snow around here or where I have ridden has been really loose snow.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Doesn't the TCat have a 1" track under it?
Not sure what you mean by block on #3, but if you mean the spring perch and not the transfer blocks, try lightning that up and letting it transfer, but if you have a 1" track under there, which I believe you do, and not the 1.25" Rip2, it will spin like no tomorrow in any snow. I was out yesterday on out trail here and even the 1.25 Rip2 was spinning. Snow conditions are everything! Just the week before it was ripping my arms off in testing, yesterday felt meh because it was spinning so much.....
Not sure what you mean by block on #3, but if you mean the spring perch and not the transfer blocks, try lightning that up and letting it transfer, but if you have a 1" track under there, which I believe you do, and not the 1.25" Rip2, it will spin like no tomorrow in any snow. I was out yesterday on out trail here and even the 1.25 Rip2 was spinning. Snow conditions are everything! Just the week before it was ripping my arms off in testing, yesterday felt meh because it was spinning so much.....
Slow998
Extreme
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2021 Thundercat went back to a Ripsaw II 1.25.Doesn't the TCat have a 1" track under it?
Not sure what you mean by block on #3, but if you mean the spring perch and not the transfer blocks, try lightning that up and letting it transfer, but if you have a 1" track under there, which I believe you do, and not the 1.25" Rip2, it will spin like no tomorrow in any snow. I was out yesterday on out trail here and even the 1.25 Rip2 was spinning. Snow conditions are everything! Just the week before it was ripping my arms off in testing, yesterday felt meh because it was spinning so much.....
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2021 Thundercat went back to a Ripsaw II 1.25.
That I know, but the OP bought an older, used TCat.
stgdz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Its the RSS block or the block that affects how far the rear arm goes, the torsion spring is set to 3 for my fat #*$&@. I could probably put it to two but I ran the ditches on the east side of mille lacs yesterday and garrison to Brainerd. I was able to flip the atac from medium to hard when I needed it. I didn't get massive air but just enough to barely bottom it out.Doesn't the TCat have a 1" track under it?
Not sure what you mean by block on #3, but if you mean the spring perch and not the transfer blocks, try lightning that up and letting it transfer, but if you have a 1" track under there, which I believe you do, and not the 1.25" Rip2, it will spin like no tomorrow in any snow. I was out yesterday on out trail here and even the 1.25 Rip2 was spinning. Snow conditions are everything! Just the week before it was ripping my arms off in testing, yesterday felt meh because it was spinning so much.....
Yeah, it's the rip1 and I think that's my main problem but in talking with the owner at Muggs Bar on Mille lacs he said that the snow we just got is really fine and it's making it hard to groom. When I was in cable a few weeks ago the harder snow above 40 would hook. There was no hookage yesterday.
I also ran into a braking oversteer when I try to slow the big girl down on a straight section the rear end wants to swap to the left, never did it to the right.
max rolph
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your tortion spring blocks should be on 1 for weight transfer and try with no couplers in sitting as far forward as you can.... cuz she gonna lift hard!!! then try with couplers in. i think youll find you like couplers out. and you may want the straps pulled up one hole to keep front end dwn.
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