Were going to rip up the trails in Muni
Gone Blue
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- 08' Nytro RTX 40th Anniversary - Stretched
04rxw10 said:
Cool, looks like a sweet set up. Have fun with all of your mods this season. Are you going to be at Muni this coming weekend? If so, see you there. G.B.
no i will be there next month need to get my tax return so i can make it.
Crewchief47
Lifetime Member
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- 2008 Nytro MTX 45th
Looks good dude!
Thanks Crew I hope to meet you in person in Muni this year if not there will always be a next time.
Kart16chrisw
Veteran
Got a chance to ride it yet? ive already pulled mine out twice, did a bolt check and and had one of my stiffener plates in the front for mounting pull the rivets out and muve foward 
get that fixed but having wheely problems, it feels very soft and very easy to bottom, set sping to stiffest setting and tightend limiter 2 holes, much better but could be stiffer.
get that fixed but having wheely problems, it feels very soft and very easy to bottom, set sping to stiffest setting and tightend limiter 2 holes, much better but could be stiffer.
Kart16chrisw said:Got a chance to ride it yet? ive already pulled mine out twice, did a bolt check and and had one of my stiffener plates in the front for mounting pull the rivets out and muve foward
YUP had it out but in the first 5 miles I broke a hose clamp all fixed now had some friends coming over right now to head out again this ride should be better.
I have the same problem I have to much ski lift as well going to the same as you might need to get a set of rebuild able shock and have them set to the sled and my weight.
I took it out today to give it a shake down. Started buy not hauling it to far from the house. All went well with the skid set to the stiffest I was bottoming out on the rougher part of the club trails.
When we got out on the ITS trail system they were great. Nice and smooth and groomed I'm going to say first thing this morning or late last night.
Now for the bad news I lost all power to the dash (no speedo,tack or anything else) and tail light and no break light. I was going down a rough part of a local club trail and lost it all. Replace the blown fuse with one of the spares (10 Amp) started it back up gauge working all is good. So we jump on the sleds and move about 50 feet and all gone again. So I do a big NO-NO I put the other spare in it (20 Amp) it blows immediately. Sled still starts and runs so off we go and finish the day. we stopped at a couple of stores looking for fuses in hopes I could put one in and find the problem but I had no luck.
So all in all the SC3 is a great improvement in the ride of the sled but I still have inside ski lift going around corners I have the 13mm sway bar in it. Going to look over the wiring in the problem areas in the nose and along the fame looking for chaffed wires.
When we got out on the ITS trail system they were great. Nice and smooth and groomed I'm going to say first thing this morning or late last night.
Now for the bad news I lost all power to the dash (no speedo,tack or anything else) and tail light and no break light. I was going down a rough part of a local club trail and lost it all. Replace the blown fuse with one of the spares (10 Amp) started it back up gauge working all is good. So we jump on the sleds and move about 50 feet and all gone again. So I do a big NO-NO I put the other spare in it (20 Amp) it blows immediately. Sled still starts and runs so off we go and finish the day. we stopped at a couple of stores looking for fuses in hopes I could put one in and find the problem but I had no luck.
So all in all the SC3 is a great improvement in the ride of the sled but I still have inside ski lift going around corners I have the 13mm sway bar in it. Going to look over the wiring in the problem areas in the nose and along the fame looking for chaffed wires.
Kart16chrisw
Veteran
any chances the shorts up by the steering colum where you lengthend all the wiring?
I'm going to look there as well going to have it fixed before I make it to Muni.
I worked on the sled tonight to find my problem with the wiring gremlin I have. 
When I blew the fuse I lost my instrument cluster,back-up alarm,tail light and brake light
I backed it into a friend shop undid every wire tie even pulled the air box off, I looked over the wiring I did when I lengthened the wire to put the connectors under the hood.
Spent at least an hour looking for any sign of a pinched or chaffed wire NOTHING.
So with no signs I put a 7.5 amp fuse in it (I know factory is a 10) to see if it will blow it.
I set the parking brake sled was still in reverse I started the sled.
Everything was working what did I do????
So with the sled running and the back-up alarm going I started moving wires in hopes I could get it to blow the fuse. Started at the speedo and worked my way back to the carbs. I wiggled them I bent them in every direction I could trying to pop the fuse. Concentrated in th know problem areas down by the hood hinge and along the frame. NOTHING.
So I tried it again and still nothing then started on my wiring on the handle bar and I get the same results NOTHING.
This is really starting to pi$$ me off now so before I toss my damnit tool across the room I have a
and cool off.
After I calmed down knowing that there WAS a problem somewhere in the front of the sled. Now I cant get the fuse to blow I find a radiator hose to a car that I don't own any more and I wrap up the known problem areas.
Sorry for poor pic quality (cell phone)
Hood hinge
Along the frame
I zip tie them up tight put the air box back on close the hood start the sled up.
AND..........
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I'm good to go even with the 7.5 amp fuse in it everything still working I load it on my trailer.
Now if I pop a fuses again 1 I have spares and 2 I will look under the seat that could be where the problem is as well because I loose my taillight and brake light. I might look there tomorrow if I get a chance just to cover my a$$.
When I blew the fuse I lost my instrument cluster,back-up alarm,tail light and brake light
I backed it into a friend shop undid every wire tie even pulled the air box off, I looked over the wiring I did when I lengthened the wire to put the connectors under the hood.
Spent at least an hour looking for any sign of a pinched or chaffed wire NOTHING.
So with no signs I put a 7.5 amp fuse in it (I know factory is a 10) to see if it will blow it.
I set the parking brake sled was still in reverse I started the sled.
Everything was working what did I do????
So with the sled running and the back-up alarm going I started moving wires in hopes I could get it to blow the fuse. Started at the speedo and worked my way back to the carbs. I wiggled them I bent them in every direction I could trying to pop the fuse. Concentrated in th know problem areas down by the hood hinge and along the frame. NOTHING.
So I tried it again and still nothing then started on my wiring on the handle bar and I get the same results NOTHING.
This is really starting to pi$$ me off now so before I toss my damnit tool across the room I have a
and cool off.After I calmed down knowing that there WAS a problem somewhere in the front of the sled. Now I cant get the fuse to blow I find a radiator hose to a car that I don't own any more and I wrap up the known problem areas.
Sorry for poor pic quality (cell phone)
Hood hinge
Along the frame
I zip tie them up tight put the air box back on close the hood start the sled up.
AND..........
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.
.
.
.
.
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.
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I'm good to go even with the 7.5 amp fuse in it everything still working I load it on my trailer.
Now if I pop a fuses again 1 I have spares and 2 I will look under the seat that could be where the problem is as well because I loose my taillight and brake light. I might look there tomorrow if I get a chance just to cover my a$$.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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The wire hooked up to ground is not a problem, they're ground anyway even if the insulation is scrubbed off. To blow fuses you need a short circuit that draws amps beyond the amp of the fuse before the fuse blows, or you have to draw more amps by normal use of all connected equipmen, you already know that 
I'm pretty sure you have a positive lead that is only occationally touching ground (the frame, a ground wire also scrubbed thru)
I'm pretty sure you have a positive lead that is only occationally touching ground (the frame, a ground wire also scrubbed thru)
THAT DAMN GREMLIN IS BACK
I tried something different tonight after it blew the fuse. I put one in and left the hood open everything was working I slowly closed the hood and it blew. So tomorrow I'm going to disconnect all the wiring and pull the hood off and go over every wire one at a time and test with an ohm meter.
I have noticed that the sled likes to backfire now so I picked up new donuts going to replace them as well I looked them over when I started this project but thats all I did was look didn't pull them out like I should of.
I tried something different tonight after it blew the fuse. I put one in and left the hood open everything was working I slowly closed the hood and it blew. So tomorrow I'm going to disconnect all the wiring and pull the hood off and go over every wire one at a time and test with an ohm meter.
I have noticed that the sled likes to backfire now so I picked up new donuts going to replace them as well I looked them over when I started this project but thats all I did was look didn't pull them out like I should of.
Well I 99.99999999% sure I got rid of the gremlin but he wasn't where I thought it was at first.
I went as far as to pull the whole wiring harness off the sled bring it in the house to look over every wire twice and still nothing.
So I put it back on the sled after I put it in new loom and taped it up to help keep water out.
Now I proceeded to work on the exhaust donuts i tried to pull the seat off but it didn't want to come off?????
If you have read one of my previous posts you will know that I said it must be under the seat.
Heres the reason why the seat didn't want to come off......... THE GREMLIN!!!!!!
Top looks OK but look at the bottom part of the plug
Heres the problem
The plug was resting on the heat shield for the muffler.
When the shield was cold the plastic would hold the wire just far enough away from the tin so no short. But when I was running for more than 30 min the heat would melt the plastic and allow the wire to make contact and blow the fuse.
Need to order both plugs or just burn my fingers again and soldier them together.
With that problem found I continued on to the donuts.
they didn't look to bad but you tell me this one was the best of the 4
I bought all 4 donuts so I replaced them with these.
Didn't get any more pic due to I was working on the sled on the trailer in the driveway got to dark out for any more pics.
I did have a few problems.
1. Pulled the muffler out of the sled when I didn't need too.
2. Broke a bolt off on one of the muffler clamps
3. Stripped one of the allen head bolts to pull the pips back to change the donuts.
4. 2 of the 4 clamps were so loose you could spin them.
5. All 4 clamp bolts needed to be heated to be removed.
6. Running to 3 different part stores to get the parts to put the sled back together.
7. Putting the muffler back in.
8. Finding all the parts on the trailer under a tarp at night!!!!!!
I will look for spare parts in the morning but there shouldn't be any every nut,bold and screw was put back in that I know of.
Started the sled it sounds much better going to have the dealer clean and sync the carbs this week and I should be ready for Muni in Feb I HOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I went as far as to pull the whole wiring harness off the sled bring it in the house to look over every wire twice and still nothing.
So I put it back on the sled after I put it in new loom and taped it up to help keep water out.
Now I proceeded to work on the exhaust donuts i tried to pull the seat off but it didn't want to come off?????
If you have read one of my previous posts you will know that I said it must be under the seat.
Heres the reason why the seat didn't want to come off......... THE GREMLIN!!!!!!
Top looks OK but look at the bottom part of the plug
Heres the problem
The plug was resting on the heat shield for the muffler.
When the shield was cold the plastic would hold the wire just far enough away from the tin so no short. But when I was running for more than 30 min the heat would melt the plastic and allow the wire to make contact and blow the fuse.
Need to order both plugs or just burn my fingers again and soldier them together.
With that problem found I continued on to the donuts.
they didn't look to bad but you tell me this one was the best of the 4
I bought all 4 donuts so I replaced them with these.
Didn't get any more pic due to I was working on the sled on the trailer in the driveway got to dark out for any more pics.
I did have a few problems.
1. Pulled the muffler out of the sled when I didn't need too.
2. Broke a bolt off on one of the muffler clamps
3. Stripped one of the allen head bolts to pull the pips back to change the donuts.
4. 2 of the 4 clamps were so loose you could spin them.
5. All 4 clamp bolts needed to be heated to be removed.
6. Running to 3 different part stores to get the parts to put the sled back together.
7. Putting the muffler back in.
8. Finding all the parts on the trailer under a tarp at night!!!!!!
I will look for spare parts in the morning but there shouldn't be any every nut,bold and screw was put back in that I know of.
Started the sled it sounds much better going to have the dealer clean and sync the carbs this week and I should be ready for Muni in Feb I HOPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Crewchief47
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2006
- Messages
- 2,830
- Location
- McGregor, ON Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 Nytro MTX 45th
Some of my plumbing projects follow the same general pattern. Break crap, run to the hardware. Break more crap, go again. It sucked at the old house, 10 min one way.
At least your gremlin should be tamed.
At least your gremlin should be tamed.
