rough rider
Expert
How has the ck suspensions been holding up on these sleds? any major problems with them, can they be adjusted fairly easy 
bluemissile
Pro
the only problems i'm aware of is wheels delaminating and slides wearing out. even though i haven't had any problems. not as easy as pushing a button or turning a knob. but they still are not bad to adjust a screwdriver and a wrench from the kit will do ya.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
My proactive skid has held up really well with the beatings it gets.
guyzoun
Extreme
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
- Messages
- 99
over 3500 miles on my Nytro 07 and everything is okay!
Yeller
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
2500 K and no issues.
nytro23
Pro
check picture to see what we did
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
Looking at the above pic, the CK suspension isn't holding up. It looks like you have to replace most idler wheels, and add more, as well as upgrade the shocks.
While I haven't replaced my shocks, yet, I've had to replace my wheels and added a couple too. To me, that's not the sign of a skid that's holding up, is it? Or is that what we are just willing to accept these days?
This spring, I did find a crack by one of the bolt holes in one of the rails, but I blame myself for not locktiting the bolt in and coming loose.
Replacing bearings and sliders, I would accept as regular maintenance items, but the wheels should not be delaminating or warping after a thousand kilometers.
While I haven't replaced my shocks, yet, I've had to replace my wheels and added a couple too. To me, that's not the sign of a skid that's holding up, is it? Or is that what we are just willing to accept these days?
This spring, I did find a crack by one of the bolt holes in one of the rails, but I blame myself for not locktiting the bolt in and coming loose.
Replacing bearings and sliders, I would accept as regular maintenance items, but the wheels should not be delaminating or warping after a thousand kilometers.
nytro23
Pro
CK
No your right..this suspension is ok for trail riding in Minnesota on a groomed trail but it won't take much abuse. We beefed up almost the whole skid and it only took us to Nome. But I'll have to say that the Cat suspensions had their issues too. Polaris didn't hold up much better, Doo's were the only ones that really held up. We had over 120 miles of no snow mind you, but all in all I'm glad Yamaha went to a skid that pretty much copied the doo skid for this years Nytro. We should make it the whole way this year.
Unless your riding in Alaska, the CK will probably do just fine.
No your right..this suspension is ok for trail riding in Minnesota on a groomed trail but it won't take much abuse. We beefed up almost the whole skid and it only took us to Nome. But I'll have to say that the Cat suspensions had their issues too. Polaris didn't hold up much better, Doo's were the only ones that really held up. We had over 120 miles of no snow mind you, but all in all I'm glad Yamaha went to a skid that pretty much copied the doo skid for this years Nytro. We should make it the whole way this year.
Unless your riding in Alaska, the CK will probably do just fine.
Pro Active Suspension
Guys I don't think just looking at this picture really tells a story. Sure Yammy had some delamination on the front idlers but as far as I'm concerned a lot of after market parts are put on sleds because the owners want to, not because they have to. I think a lot ( NOT ALL ) aftermarket parts do more for the people that make and sell them than they do for the user. In my mind the value of the add on front idlers is limited. Sure they tend to wear there first but they quit after awhile and you get lots of miles after that. I think most people change sliders too soon although I will admit that our sled with an Expert X does better than our stock Yammy. If that's a Kimpex rear idler you might just as well left the bad one on.
The Ohlins rear shock was probably put on for coolness but if I'm correct that Ohlins is variable compression only and the GYT that it replaced was variable compreesion and variable rebound which gives you the ability to adjust some of the rebound of the skid so I'm not convinced that was a good replacement. BTW if the owner wants to sell that GYT I'm interested.
Geezer 2
Guys I don't think just looking at this picture really tells a story. Sure Yammy had some delamination on the front idlers but as far as I'm concerned a lot of after market parts are put on sleds because the owners want to, not because they have to. I think a lot ( NOT ALL ) aftermarket parts do more for the people that make and sell them than they do for the user. In my mind the value of the add on front idlers is limited. Sure they tend to wear there first but they quit after awhile and you get lots of miles after that. I think most people change sliders too soon although I will admit that our sled with an Expert X does better than our stock Yammy. If that's a Kimpex rear idler you might just as well left the bad one on.
The Ohlins rear shock was probably put on for coolness but if I'm correct that Ohlins is variable compression only and the GYT that it replaced was variable compreesion and variable rebound which gives you the ability to adjust some of the rebound of the skid so I'm not convinced that was a good replacement. BTW if the owner wants to sell that GYT I'm interested.
Geezer 2
nytro23
Pro
Sorry the shock was sold
You can't see all that was done to this skid frame and probably don't want to know how much was spent to make this last for the whole race. The weak point on this suspension is the front cross shaft that the cross link is attached to along with the center shock. This now has a 1/2" through bolt with metric machined shaft out of 4160 to handle the load. If you haven't noticed the anchor point for the front torque arm is now 4160 steel horns, this also has a 1/2" through bolt instead of a bolt from either side. Also installed the three cross shafts and rail stiffners under the bump stops to strengthen lateral movement as well as keeping the rails from cracking. The Ohlin has been re valved with pretty slow rebound. The stock shock does not even compare to an Ohlin for ride and durability. We had a Ohlin on the center shock also with both compression and rebound with remote reservior. That is also a Apex torque arm with all attache point doubled with 4160. The shafts for the torque arms are titanium with the front torque arm haveing plastic bearings through out the whole shaft.
All bearings were replaced on all wheels, back shaft is also 4160 and none of the wheels are kimpex.
We are working on our skid frams as we speak for 2008 Iron Dog. Will give you updates before the race starts.
You can't see all that was done to this skid frame and probably don't want to know how much was spent to make this last for the whole race. The weak point on this suspension is the front cross shaft that the cross link is attached to along with the center shock. This now has a 1/2" through bolt with metric machined shaft out of 4160 to handle the load. If you haven't noticed the anchor point for the front torque arm is now 4160 steel horns, this also has a 1/2" through bolt instead of a bolt from either side. Also installed the three cross shafts and rail stiffners under the bump stops to strengthen lateral movement as well as keeping the rails from cracking. The Ohlin has been re valved with pretty slow rebound. The stock shock does not even compare to an Ohlin for ride and durability. We had a Ohlin on the center shock also with both compression and rebound with remote reservior. That is also a Apex torque arm with all attache point doubled with 4160. The shafts for the torque arms are titanium with the front torque arm haveing plastic bearings through out the whole shaft.
All bearings were replaced on all wheels, back shaft is also 4160 and none of the wheels are kimpex.
We are working on our skid frams as we speak for 2008 Iron Dog. Will give you updates before the race starts.
Pro action reliability
Well I'm thinking you missed the point. I can appreciate what you did to make your skid hold up for your use but I don't think this was a racing or abuse question. My point was you can't just look at this picture and say all these mods are needed to make the skid usuable. I have three seasons on my Vector and haven't replaced anything because of breakage. I have installed a Ohlins center shock though to improve the ride and would like to replace the rear shock also.
Keep us posted on how you fare.
Geezer
Well I'm thinking you missed the point. I can appreciate what you did to make your skid hold up for your use but I don't think this was a racing or abuse question. My point was you can't just look at this picture and say all these mods are needed to make the skid usuable. I have three seasons on my Vector and haven't replaced anything because of breakage. I have installed a Ohlins center shock though to improve the ride and would like to replace the rear shock also.
Keep us posted on how you fare.
Geezer
nytro23
Pro
Yep
Skid is ok for general use, your right there. If your going to abuse it for 2000 miles then some things are needed. Even with all the things we did it still didn't last, only made it 1/2 way. But I'm glad the new Nytro has a more conventional set up. The Ck just has too many moving parts.
Skid is ok for general use, your right there. If your going to abuse it for 2000 miles then some things are needed. Even with all the things we did it still didn't last, only made it 1/2 way. But I'm glad the new Nytro has a more conventional set up. The Ck just has too many moving parts.
Aaron Eh
Extreme
You wouldn't happen to have CAD files for the parts you replaced and be willing to share them with me. I've had cross shafts break on my ZR800 and would change them out on the Nytro if you've seen failures on that skid.
Aaron
Aaron
nytro23
Pro
Cross shafts
The main one your concerned with is the one that the center shock and cross link ties into. This shaft also has the two idler wheels on it also. I took my shaft out along with idler wheels and aluminum spacers. Bought a 1/2" x 11 1/2" high grade bolt and had the machine shop make me a shaft that was standard on the inside and metric on the outside. This is also the time to upgrade those idler wheels if you haven't already.
Your local machine shop should be able to fix you up. If you upgrade your idler wheels you'l have to trim up the aluminum spacers also that are on this shaft.
The chrome molly horns that the front torque arm attaches to was direct from Yamaha in Japan. You might be able to make these yourself if your handy with a welder. This here was also changed out to a through bolt set up as opposed to having bolts from either side ( poor set up, one likes to back out after awhile ) you can red loctite these bolts in the meantime. If you stay with the two boly set up on the torque arm attach points it's best to upgrade to a grade 10, ten mm bolt. Grade ten in metric is about a grade 7 or 8 us.
The main one your concerned with is the one that the center shock and cross link ties into. This shaft also has the two idler wheels on it also. I took my shaft out along with idler wheels and aluminum spacers. Bought a 1/2" x 11 1/2" high grade bolt and had the machine shop make me a shaft that was standard on the inside and metric on the outside. This is also the time to upgrade those idler wheels if you haven't already.
Your local machine shop should be able to fix you up. If you upgrade your idler wheels you'l have to trim up the aluminum spacers also that are on this shaft.
The chrome molly horns that the front torque arm attaches to was direct from Yamaha in Japan. You might be able to make these yourself if your handy with a welder. This here was also changed out to a through bolt set up as opposed to having bolts from either side ( poor set up, one likes to back out after awhile ) you can red loctite these bolts in the meantime. If you stay with the two boly set up on the torque arm attach points it's best to upgrade to a grade 10, ten mm bolt. Grade ten in metric is about a grade 7 or 8 us.
Aaron Eh
Extreme
Thanks for the info. I'll pull the skid and get started.
Aaron
Aaron
