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06 Apex Xtx build, 4year build and still changing

no clearence issues I can see with drivers or rear of suspension.

I have not messed with track tension, just too buisy. I have seen 111 on the speedo(10tooth drivers)and I was passing my friends rtx that said 118(hi allen) The sled doesn't engine brake as hard anymore. Primary is stock, 16,000mls on it, secondary has been replaced.

I do have something wrong with one of the shocks in the rear, Ill be taking them out this summer and have them redone.

I installed Hid lights.
I tried the 3000 temp. lights(yellow) but they dont project as far. Low beam is like the sun, high beam is not any better than stock.
I will be buying the 6000 temps.

There is alot to mount on the back of the light so I made an aluminum bracket to mount the starters, controller and ballasts to.

They only run 35watts so I have more power now to run a blender, toaster, microwave, etc.....

rubbers needed trimming to fit over correctly. Other than that, nothing to the light was changed, it can be changed back right on the trail(if you bring lights with you)
 

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I also corrected an injustice. I have always dispised the design of the apex seat. Its droopy rear end style looks so out of place on an otherwise stylish sled.
I will be changing the foam and cover this summer but I did get around to changing the lower part so it looked more like the rx1 style of seat on the bottom tapering back and up.
 

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I didnt have any pictures of what I cut off. I removed the back of the lip where it meets the exhaust can up so it would be level with the top of the tunnel. The front is now the same as a rx1 seat pan, tapered down.
 
So far this winter I have tried a few different skis on this sled with different carbides, etc.
Usi tripple threats so far kinda suck. I have made them better but I think I will have to install Dartless plates on them to cure them. They are just so agressive, if you get too much bite, they wont steer.

I used my powder hounds last night but we dont have snow to try the flotation, I was more trying out the Dartless plates from this site. They work great on these skis and make them not dart at all. They do loose a little bite with them as they hold the carbide up in a corner, not letting all the carbide touch.

I keep going back to the Arrow skis, they track like they are on rails, and bite hard on icy corners as when you start to turn, you go from putting your weight on two carbides to 1 carbide that is completely on the ground, unlike with the dartless plates.

I wanted to try the snow trackers but they were out of stock.

I will report back on the Usi skis with the dartless on them.

I bet the dartless would even fix those other skis I tried that used C+A carbides that I can't talk about.

conditions in maine right now are icy crust but very fast and tons of snow. Hurry up while you can.
 
Your killing me i have 350 miles on for the year and was so slow couldnt really afford to go up and ride now i am to busy and am getting ready for race season with my car.Scott Aroostook auto glass would like nice on the side of the car dont you think
:jump:
 
actully, i had to cut them down as they are made to go through the clamps on the bars.

rock, i did the bars too, I havent measured them though, might get to it today before the ride. I will need to wire them paralell, they have very little heat even on your kits full 12v wired the way they said to. They are in series like the stockers were in 06.

big pile of crap needs a paint job badly

Dave, I told you if you pay me 100$ per race, you can use my name.

Dave, going riding again tonight. You really need to come up. the trails are amazing right now other than the road crossings are getting wider.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
actully, i had to cut them down as they are made to go through the clamps on the bars.

Oooooh yeah that makes sense you like the riding position now a little better? All the cables fit with now issue on a 2" rise right?

I'm jealous your still riding!
 
The cables were long enough. It is a good position. The isovibe looks like it belongs on it since they use a stock aluminum risor.

there will be off trail riding in maine into the end of april this year. Last year we rode the trails around here till the end of april, off trail went until end of may.
 
Do you think the 6 degree tip was enough or if you were to do it again would you go more? Does it still feel like a 121 on hard pack?
 
The angle seems fine, on hard flat trail, it turns easy(though I use Arrow skis and they can make anything turn easy).

You can notice the sled is long when your riding on anything more than a few inches of snow. It in now way handles as good as a short sled. It is a best of both worlds kinda sled, good off trail, good on.
Is it worth doing, probly not for as much as I ride off trail, I just wanted to try it and I had the tunnel.

I would like to ride a light version of this sled, xtx skid, bark buster, fox floats, tunnel exhaust, boss seat. The sled does feel heavy, everything I did to this sled added weight in some way, not exactly the direction most go.

Oh, I forgot to mention, I installed a 13mm sway bar, this bar probly works great with stock springs but it is too stiff for the ohlins springs. It is very stiff and will really give you a poke when hitting a bump in a corner. I'll be going back to the 11. Anyone want to trade a new 13mm for a 12mm. I would like to try a 12.
 
I have rockmeister warm hands kit installed on this sled and it is worth every penny. The heaters still suck because they burn the two inside fingers almost off while the pinky finger is ice cold.

I have made up many sets of curved bars over the years in different variations, this is one more variation.

I used rsi grip heaters this time as well as their gell grips. The rsi heaters go down around the end of the hook a ways to help keep the hook warm. In the past I have used plastic hooks so they dont act like a heat sink and pull heat out of the bar, making the end cold. The 06 bars have this problem as well as having an unheated hook. For this set, since I had the hook style heaters I just reused the stock bar hooks with the rubber removed. Then when the length is desided on, I installed cork gasket material to the bar gluing it on with Stayput(best spray adheisive I have found so far)making sure that the seams are under the bar so they wont be seen as bumps through the grip or cause any issues with the heater. The cork will isolate the bar from the heat element and transfer as much heat to the hands and not the bar. In the past i have used electrical heat shrink to do this but this sounded like a better heat block(thanks to whoever told me about this).
Then I laid the grip heaters on after cutting a notch in the cork for the wire to set into. Use the stayput if you can, the glue that comes on these isn't much.
In the past I have had trouble with the edges of the heaters being grabbed by the grip while installing it and rolling it up. To stop this, use a layer of electrical tape pulled very tight around the edge of the heater.
Now your ready to install the grips. I remember the moment of revelation I had when jim showed me how to install grips :o| Just put a blow gun in the end and push them on. Then trim around everything and wire them up.
On my apex, the directions said to wire them up in series. I have yet to change it because it is spring and they are hot enough but they need to be hooked in parallel. Even with full 12v, they barely give any heat.

As for the bars. They look good and are very sticky. I might even change the grips because of this. I find they are fine to use when riding casually or going straight but when your chasing someone in the corners changing your hand positions they are too sticky and you need to release your hand to move it or twist it. I will be changing them back to the cat style or maybe even try to stretch a stock set of 07 up grips over them.

sorry rock, still not reading for you. will get them when i rewire.

From the last pictures you can see a flat area where the screw holds the bar end on. If you do a set of these, fill this with a plug of wood driven in and then smooth off, I forgot so now it looks like the bars have a dent in them.
 

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well, I have powder hound skis on my sled for the last three rides. I installed dartless style cut pipes on them and it gets rid of darting on any condition I could find and also made these skis easy to stear for big planks. They float great. I will keep them now as my second choice ski for off trail riding and put the Arrows back on for next year. The powder hounds just dont have a deep enough keel combined with the wide flat(single plain)style body. they work good when there there is low snow but when the top plate starts to float it doesnt let the keel drop down enough to get a good bite. This makes it want to oversteer some and push around giving an eratic feel in the corners compared to other skis I have tried when riding hard. The do steer so much easier than the simmons and dont dart with the pipes on them that Ill keep them for now. I will take a little push and over steer over hard steering at slow speed as I am old and fat.

I still have the Triple threats and have dartless made up for them, this should cure my issues with these skis and they had no trouble with pushing or oversteer so they should end up being better than the powderhounds(guess for now)

we did 210ish last night and trails were great other than about 15mls. If you still want to ride there are still great trails in maine with tons of snow.
 
Hey BTV, how does that exhaust sound compared to the stock apex? I love my 03 rx stock system and i have a complete one here from my old sled and thinking of keeping it around and swapping it when the apex ones takes a crap. My 03 is the quietest of all mufflers I beleive and I never had a drone where as the apex has that at 30-40mph drone does the RX exhaust fix that?
 


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