rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Hahahaha hope it sells asap 
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
So scott,did you ever get those ohlins down lower for better handling,i am getting a set from bjwoett,and they are not from the 40th apex,but just front snowmobile shocks from ohlins,i hope mine handle better than the gyt's they will replace on my 06 apexgt.BETHEVIPER said:
I am selling them. If I kept them for my apex, I have ends to lower them 1in. I picked up some tripple rate springs to lower it as well. I think once they sell, I will just use some revalved stockers with remote cans with the triple rates on them. But then, I might change my mine, It happens////
Well, finally got the sled back together.
I installed the lower ends on the shocks, 1in lower, now they are a little shorter than the stock apex shocks.
I tried my tripple rate springs and they dropped it another inch, just where I wanted it but I didn't dare use them on the ohlins shocks. The upper springs rub on the inside of the clicker can. For now, I am trying stock apex front springs with no preload. Sled feels less tippy than it was, though I am comparing it from one year to the next.
Found out the hard way that you can not use cork covered bars with rsi grips and heaters while using a boosted yamaheater. Burnt the grips off tootsweet.
I changed out the seat cover for an all black one.
Cant replace the Arrow ski mount that was damaged in the accident without buying a set so I went rummaging around in my trailer for some ski backs from a viper to cut down and make fit both(I am cheap). I found a set of backs I bought for the skis that never were, USI 401 skis. They were the USI version of an arrow ski. They came out early 2000s and were in the part unlimited book but they never recieved them to ship out. I ended up with just the backs. Funny thing is, the carbide holes are so close to being the same I only need to file an edge. The back is longer so I'll have to cut it down. I wonder what ever went on behind the scenes with the 401 ski, later to be called Arrow from another manufacturer?
Went riding with some friends this weekend and sled got same mileage as a new xtx.
Need to do some clutching now. The old clutches are making alot of noise on start up, things getting a little loose.
I installed the lower ends on the shocks, 1in lower, now they are a little shorter than the stock apex shocks.
I tried my tripple rate springs and they dropped it another inch, just where I wanted it but I didn't dare use them on the ohlins shocks. The upper springs rub on the inside of the clicker can. For now, I am trying stock apex front springs with no preload. Sled feels less tippy than it was, though I am comparing it from one year to the next.
Found out the hard way that you can not use cork covered bars with rsi grips and heaters while using a boosted yamaheater. Burnt the grips off tootsweet.
I changed out the seat cover for an all black one.
Cant replace the Arrow ski mount that was damaged in the accident without buying a set so I went rummaging around in my trailer for some ski backs from a viper to cut down and make fit both(I am cheap). I found a set of backs I bought for the skis that never were, USI 401 skis. They were the USI version of an arrow ski. They came out early 2000s and were in the part unlimited book but they never recieved them to ship out. I ended up with just the backs. Funny thing is, the carbide holes are so close to being the same I only need to file an edge. The back is longer so I'll have to cut it down. I wonder what ever went on behind the scenes with the 401 ski, later to be called Arrow from another manufacturer?
Went riding with some friends this weekend and sled got same mileage as a new xtx.
Need to do some clutching now. The old clutches are making alot of noise on start up, things getting a little loose.
I found a part that comes on later ventures that goes on the side panels to keep some wind off the front of your legs. I was surprised to find they didn't look bad either. I think they were around 50 for the set.
The headlight I used from a rtx apex with a light yellow tint. I separated the light and added chrome yellow decal to as many areas as I could without messing up the actual reflector to give the illusion it was even more yellow. I also covered the upper corners that have always bothered me. Yamaha never matched this section to the reflector color. Also painted the tip of the hid bulb black to make the look of a pupil when the lights are off.
I have projectors somewhere stuck in shipping, to build another light. I love the look of this light but It still has the high low issue that is aggravating. I will put the electric adjuster on it before I seal it up for the last time. I wanted to make sure the decals did not fail under the severe light. Some intense lights will fade or cause color change on vinyl. So far so good.
I installed a 07 rtx skid with extensions from tracks usa. The shocks were upgraded by hi gear with a revalve and hi/low valve. I added some more wheels. I don't really like the dual rear wheels I used. If it stays in, I am going to change it for small wheels at the transition. The skid seems to ride decent. Similar to the ride of my friends xtx, might get better if I get to go riding when I can take the time to adjust it. Decent now, not an m10 but definately not like the 07stock rtx skid. Shocks do make a difference.
Have ridden two weeks now on a few different conditions with the new Stealth skis from Kimpex. Overall they are great. I think I will leave them on the sled till I am done with it and maybe even keep them. They look good, handle good, very predictable, do not dart on any condition i could find. Even rode one night on chewed up trail that was then frozen solid. I like that they can be made wider, though have not tried it yet. Their only draw back is that the keels, though very deep, are not very long. On soft slushy conditions, they do not hold very good when going slow and trying to turn. At speed, I never found it to be an issue. Maybe it is my new found traction that is causing this issue. The sled previously used more tip up angle and a 1in track. Steering is very easy and the sled tracks amazingly. They are as good as or better than the Arrows or Tunners, look better than and stronger than both, also 1in wider.
The headlight I used from a rtx apex with a light yellow tint. I separated the light and added chrome yellow decal to as many areas as I could without messing up the actual reflector to give the illusion it was even more yellow. I also covered the upper corners that have always bothered me. Yamaha never matched this section to the reflector color. Also painted the tip of the hid bulb black to make the look of a pupil when the lights are off.
I have projectors somewhere stuck in shipping, to build another light. I love the look of this light but It still has the high low issue that is aggravating. I will put the electric adjuster on it before I seal it up for the last time. I wanted to make sure the decals did not fail under the severe light. Some intense lights will fade or cause color change on vinyl. So far so good.
I installed a 07 rtx skid with extensions from tracks usa. The shocks were upgraded by hi gear with a revalve and hi/low valve. I added some more wheels. I don't really like the dual rear wheels I used. If it stays in, I am going to change it for small wheels at the transition. The skid seems to ride decent. Similar to the ride of my friends xtx, might get better if I get to go riding when I can take the time to adjust it. Decent now, not an m10 but definately not like the 07stock rtx skid. Shocks do make a difference.
Have ridden two weeks now on a few different conditions with the new Stealth skis from Kimpex. Overall they are great. I think I will leave them on the sled till I am done with it and maybe even keep them. They look good, handle good, very predictable, do not dart on any condition i could find. Even rode one night on chewed up trail that was then frozen solid. I like that they can be made wider, though have not tried it yet. Their only draw back is that the keels, though very deep, are not very long. On soft slushy conditions, they do not hold very good when going slow and trying to turn. At speed, I never found it to be an issue. Maybe it is my new found traction that is causing this issue. The sled previously used more tip up angle and a 1in track. Steering is very easy and the sled tracks amazingly. They are as good as or better than the Arrows or Tunners, look better than and stronger than both, also 1in wider.
Attachments
Not sure why some of my pictures can not be loaded upright. I even went into picasa, cropped and rotated.
Some pictures to show the ski compared to Arrows and stock yamaha ski. The arrows have a little deeper keel than the tuners. There are slots that are longer than the blade. I am hoping they make a longer version of carbide later. The skis turn so easy they could easily add more keel length in each direction.
Love the ski tip look, a huge improvement over the old arrow and the tunner. I think these tips will work on the arrow.
Some pictures to show the ski compared to Arrows and stock yamaha ski. The arrows have a little deeper keel than the tuners. There are slots that are longer than the blade. I am hoping they make a longer version of carbide later. The skis turn so easy they could easily add more keel length in each direction.
Love the ski tip look, a huge improvement over the old arrow and the tunner. I think these tips will work on the arrow.
Attachments
I changed out the ice attack track because someone told me they was going to send me a check for it. It never came, so I now have a 1 1/4 predator with carbides on my sled. I will change it back and sell this one when I change the skid next time. I like the traction for the launch but for my riding style, it requires more work in the corners and I don't go off trail enough to get any benefit out of it.
I liked the ice attack being 1in deep and no studs. I could unhook it in a corner when needed.
I liked the ice attack being 1in deep and no studs. I could unhook it in a corner when needed.
finally got to ride
dam, it has been a while. like anyone cares. Good place to keep track of my sled woes I guess. I have been through a few changes since last post.
Used GYT clickers for a couple years. They ride better than the ohlins but they looked too plain on a black sled so I put another set on it.
Sled is back on ohlins up front.
Busted my headlight along the way when my trailer cover tried to chop me and my sled in half. So I had to rebuild another yellow inner reflector.
Installed a WRP seat foam and cover(bravo WRP) what a home run for the money. I think I have sold a dozen or so for them and installed several my self.
Sled hit 20,000 miles. When I bought it I thought I would have hit that year two. Kids, house, work, broken ribs an a wreck kept the mileage down. Sled might last me forever at this rate.
Had to get towed. Radial crack on the outer race of my jack shaft bearing allowed all the grease to escape even though I had pulled the seal in the past and packed it. So change these before 19k, It will save you a tow.
Changed the track back to the 1in Ice attack. Love the track. hated the 1 1/4 with studs. Too much traction. Just wasn't trail friendly.
Changed back to an M10 with the tipped up extensions from CB Performance. Had to modifie the ends of the rail a bit as they were originally made for a metric m10 and this is a newer one. Has ride fx shocks. The back one works good and ride is decent. It will fade if you pound it for long periods. The center shock didn't last, blown, rebuilt, blown, removed and now has a srx front ski shock in its place holding up perfectly.
This thing has some messed up geometry so when I put the m10 in I went back to 10 tooth drivers. I run it with stock 9 tooth and could never get the jumping to stop. All better now and got the drivers onto a non twisted shaft this time.
For a few years I have been using my Usi tripple threat skis. They are not perfect but I like the looks the best of all the skis. If I rode more I would put the arrows back on. For now they will stay on the wifes sled. (that is new) Wife, after over 20 years of not being on a sled, decided to go riding and says she likes it. I'm suspicious still but willing to go along with it. Put together a Venture for her to ride.
Sled has started stalling like they do. If I get a chance I will adjust the valves before I try chasing down that hole with this sled. I have come up with a wiring bypass that will stop the stalling but seems like a bandaide for a glitch that shouldn't be there. I'll try to fix it first. I'll post later on the repair.
Used GYT clickers for a couple years. They ride better than the ohlins but they looked too plain on a black sled so I put another set on it.
Sled is back on ohlins up front.
Busted my headlight along the way when my trailer cover tried to chop me and my sled in half. So I had to rebuild another yellow inner reflector.
Installed a WRP seat foam and cover(bravo WRP) what a home run for the money. I think I have sold a dozen or so for them and installed several my self.
Sled hit 20,000 miles. When I bought it I thought I would have hit that year two. Kids, house, work, broken ribs an a wreck kept the mileage down. Sled might last me forever at this rate.
Had to get towed. Radial crack on the outer race of my jack shaft bearing allowed all the grease to escape even though I had pulled the seal in the past and packed it. So change these before 19k, It will save you a tow.
Changed the track back to the 1in Ice attack. Love the track. hated the 1 1/4 with studs. Too much traction. Just wasn't trail friendly.
Changed back to an M10 with the tipped up extensions from CB Performance. Had to modifie the ends of the rail a bit as they were originally made for a metric m10 and this is a newer one. Has ride fx shocks. The back one works good and ride is decent. It will fade if you pound it for long periods. The center shock didn't last, blown, rebuilt, blown, removed and now has a srx front ski shock in its place holding up perfectly.
This thing has some messed up geometry so when I put the m10 in I went back to 10 tooth drivers. I run it with stock 9 tooth and could never get the jumping to stop. All better now and got the drivers onto a non twisted shaft this time.
For a few years I have been using my Usi tripple threat skis. They are not perfect but I like the looks the best of all the skis. If I rode more I would put the arrows back on. For now they will stay on the wifes sled. (that is new) Wife, after over 20 years of not being on a sled, decided to go riding and says she likes it. I'm suspicious still but willing to go along with it. Put together a Venture for her to ride.
Sled has started stalling like they do. If I get a chance I will adjust the valves before I try chasing down that hole with this sled. I have come up with a wiring bypass that will stop the stalling but seems like a bandaide for a glitch that shouldn't be there. I'll try to fix it first. I'll post later on the repair.
dam, still riding this thing. Had to pull the skid this weekend and repair the rails where the middle idler shaft ripped out. I have a front arm limiter mounted to it. Custom thing. First issue I have had with it. Locktited the bolts in, one came out, the other one ripped a piece of the rail out. Just moved it ahead till I come up with some new rails. All 4 rear bearings were bad, second time I have replaced them. I am thinking maybe the issue is the grease runs cold in these aluminum wheels. Aluminum must pull the heat out of the bearings. Plastic would insulate the bearing making it run warmer. Anyone run into this. I think these ones might have 2000mls on them. On this sled with tipped up rails, they don't even touch the ground, even less load than a straight rail.
I have have reached the end of my dupont slides. will have to change them out at the end of the year. Over the years I have lost wheels here and there, run a lot of plowed roads un frozen and this last broken shaft event really took out alot of the hard part of the slide.
Transfer blocks needed to be replaced. I went with uncut versions this time and am riding it more locked up. I installed a standard fox zero pro that was rebuilt. Rides great. I had an airwave shock in the rear that was getting bouncy. Will have it rebuilt and revalved to king air specs this summer and order a new king air large body front shock to match.
Also had to change out a shaft and several bushings that were getting thin. I redid all of my shafts to use yamaha style bushings. I should have done this a couple thousand miles ago by the condition.
had a clamp missing on the muffler, a tunnel protector holding on with one rivet and a few other odd things you notice when you actually look at something. Miss the days when I did all this stuff in the fall before the season is in full tilt.
What a difference in the sled. I didn't realize how bad the skid had gotten. It will take a big old wack now and loved to eat up the stutter junk. Amazing how well it corners riding as high as it does with the longer slide blocks.
Can't wait to try the new king air shocks next year.
Now to detune the sled a bit. Going to remove all the computer stuff and go back to stock clutching with a soft start spring. I mostly ride with my daughter now. Mostly ride in that 20-50 range. Right where clutched apexes are a pain to ride.
It sure has been a great old sled. Maybe I'll get to the valves this summer but I know I probably wont.
I have have reached the end of my dupont slides. will have to change them out at the end of the year. Over the years I have lost wheels here and there, run a lot of plowed roads un frozen and this last broken shaft event really took out alot of the hard part of the slide.
Transfer blocks needed to be replaced. I went with uncut versions this time and am riding it more locked up. I installed a standard fox zero pro that was rebuilt. Rides great. I had an airwave shock in the rear that was getting bouncy. Will have it rebuilt and revalved to king air specs this summer and order a new king air large body front shock to match.
Also had to change out a shaft and several bushings that were getting thin. I redid all of my shafts to use yamaha style bushings. I should have done this a couple thousand miles ago by the condition.
had a clamp missing on the muffler, a tunnel protector holding on with one rivet and a few other odd things you notice when you actually look at something. Miss the days when I did all this stuff in the fall before the season is in full tilt.
What a difference in the sled. I didn't realize how bad the skid had gotten. It will take a big old wack now and loved to eat up the stutter junk. Amazing how well it corners riding as high as it does with the longer slide blocks.
Can't wait to try the new king air shocks next year.
Now to detune the sled a bit. Going to remove all the computer stuff and go back to stock clutching with a soft start spring. I mostly ride with my daughter now. Mostly ride in that 20-50 range. Right where clutched apexes are a pain to ride.
It sure has been a great old sled. Maybe I'll get to the valves this summer but I know I probably wont.
I will say, my wife, doesn't ride anymore. She was just trying to fit in with the cool kids. My youngest daughter rides with me and wanted her own sled. I bought a 4 stroke phazer for her but gave up on the engine rebuild for this year and bough an 04 viper. She loves it and has been doing great. She is 14. Felt a little weird buying her a viper for the first sled as 20 years ago, that was a sled I bought as a grown up to drag race and trail ride with.
