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06 Nytro

I feel your pain struggling with a driveway lol ! Our cabin has about a 1/3 mile long one . Thank God for 4 wheel drive or we would have to park out on the road and walk in .
I’ve pushed my way in more than a few times but it sucks trying to get the tracks cleaned up. And this escalade I bought for my son and it has Nitto performance tires and I’m sure I would have broken something on the front facia pushing my way in. I was in no condition to be stuck and having to dig out.
But I couldn’t imagine having 1/3 mile driveway to clear. I want a plow truck sitting up there now just for the 6 times a year I’ll use it.
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Still feeling weak and under the weather but I’m trying to get something done here. Bare with me, I’m not setting any records but progress is progress.
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I did find a small nest down low in the nose and also a couple wires that appear to have been chewed on. I think it might be ok to just put some liquid tape on these wires and call it good. I’ll try to pull the pins and slide a piece of shrink tube on them but it’s gonna be easier to just coat them. What do you think?
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I have oil and coolant drained, removed valve cover.
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I can’t stand the oxidation on this cover.
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Anyone who knows me or has seen some of the things I’ve done knows I won’t put stuff back together without cleaning it up and making it look new. So I ran this cover thru my blast cabinet and will paint it before it goes back on.
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How does the engine rotate forward? Does the threaded collar for the mount need to be backed out first? Seems like there is a lot of tension on that collar and I’m trying to rotate the engine slightly to get the tension off of it. But I’m not 100% where I should be rotating the engine from. Any ideas?
 
Have you read Grizztracks write up on the RS section home page ? There might be some clues in there .
 
Have you read Grizztracks write up on the RS section home page ? There might be some clues in there .
Yeah, I read the write up. Very informative to say the least. Just doesn’t give info on how to rotate the engine forward. I got it though. That threaded collar was tight against the rear mount and wouldn’t let it rotate. I ended up using a piece of 5/16” key stock I had and making a “T” and using an 8 point socket to get that collar to thread in so I could rotate the engine forward. Those bolts holding the tensioner on are a PITA. But tensioner is in and engine bolted back in place. I have to rotate the engine a few times to make sure it doesn’t jump time and I’m waiting for my copper donuts so I’m at a stand still for right now. I still have to pull the chaincase apart and clean it out so there’s a few things I can get done while waiting for exhaust parts. I’m glad it’s almost done just for the piece of mind. Probably heading back up north next week.
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Awesome job!!! I would paint the cover as well. If you could match your side panels that would look awesome. My sled is black and red. Red valve cover sure would look slick.
 
Part numbers and everything ! Good job :Rockon: Have you done anything with the Ski's ? When I first got my sleds I shimmed the ski rubbers and ran 6" carbides with the Half pipe mod on the first carbide bolt. This ran awesome for the first 2 years then I went with Bergstrom Triple points on stock ski's and a little less thick Shim. Now I run nothing but Snowtrackers . They really do make a difference.

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I made a bunch of these blades out of SS 1.25" Dia. Pipe worked awesome. If you google SLT Keel Blades, you will get better pictures
 
Part numbers and everything ! Good job :Rockon: Have you done anything with the Ski's ? When I first got my sleds I shimmed the ski rubbers and ran 6" carbides with the Half pipe mod on the first carbide bolt. This ran awesome for the first 2 years then I went with Bergstrom Triple points on stock ski's and a little less thick Shim. Now I run nothing but Snowtrackers . They really do make a difference.

View attachment 165245 I made a bunch of these blades out of SS 1.25" Dia. Pipe worked awesome. If you google SLT Keel Blades, you will get better pictures
I haven’t done anything with the skis yet. That seems like a great idea! Looks like a schedule 40 pipe? That’s ingenious. The carbides on there now seem to be wearing even. It might already have a shim, I’m not sure. I’ll probably get something different on there. Doubt I’ll do anything right now, I need to have this done by Tuesday so I can load it on trailer and head north.
 
I didn’t get back out to the garage until later this afternoon. First thing I did was rotate the engine 5 full revolutions and make sure my timing was good.
Before I did the tensioner this is where I was at.
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After the tensioner I would say I was in the same place.
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If I set the timing marks on cams level to the head, or as close to it as I could,
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My marks looked like this.
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But I can honestly say I’m exactly where it was before I did anything. Does it look like it skipped a tooth? Could it have been set this way from factory? I doubt anything has been done to this engine with only 1000 miles on it. I haven’t rode it since I bought it other than on and off the trailer twice. What do you think? Run it? Try to adjust it again? I hope I don’t have to do this again.
 


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