0W40

[Turboflash]

Same here I read for hours on this forum re oil. Finally settled on Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing Oil ("For Track Use Only") lol. Figured if it was good enough for Nascar engines, should be good enough twice a season in my SW. Partzilla shows Yamalube 0W-30 in stock. I've used them a couple of times for quad parts. Fast shipping, good prices, no complaints yet.

Yup. I'm running 0W-30 as well. Amsoil Signature Series.

 

[KnappAttack]

So does this mean 0W20 is even better?

Yep, Pro-Stock cars run straight 0 and straight 2 weight oil for max power, but you better have the proper clearances and oil pump for it too. Thicker oil than needed will rob HP. Higher viscosity does not provide less wear, just higher oil pressure and pumping losses.

I wouldn't run 0-20 in a trail sled designed to run 0-30 however, I know I wouldn't run 0-40 in it either. Put it on a dyno to see the difference. Keep in mind there are some lightweight 40 weights and also some heavy 30 weights, you have to really look at the spec.

0-40w full synthetic will out perform 0-30 semi syn all day long in terms of protection.

The best wear protection and top rated oils for wear in Rats testing is 0-20 and 0-30 oils. Here you can read for hours.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

You only want thicker oil weight if you have large clearances and/or a weak oil pump. All that maters is the boundary layer of oil holds up between the hard parts so they don't collide and weld together, anything beyond that just robs power and slows you down.

 

[Crazy Canuk]

I remember reading a thread recently where RockerDan (I think) listed all kinds of different oils and their stats. Mobil 1 5W30 seemed to be the best one. That is what I put in my sled. Up until that point, I always used Mobile 0W40 in my old Viper.

 

[Turboflash]

I remember reading a thread recently where RockerDan (I think) listed all kinds of different oils and their stats. Mobil 1 5W30 seemed to be the best one. That is what I put in my sled. Up until that point, I always used Mobile 0W40 in my old Viper.

As Professor Knapp quoted, just read this blog. Or, just skip to the listing you're referring to. The "Wear Protection Ranking List" is in section 1 about 1/2 way through the blog.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

[ClutchMaster]

Yep, Pro-Stock cars run straight 0 and straight 2 weight oil for max power, but you better have the proper clearances and oil pump for it too. Thicker oil than needed will rob HP. Higher viscosity does not provide less wear, just higher oil pressure and pumping losses.

I wouldn't run 0-20 in a trail sled designed to run 0-30 however, I know I wouldn't run 0-40 in it either. Put it on a dyno to see the difference. Keep in mind there are some lightweight 40 weights and also some heavy 30 weights, you have to really look at the spec.




The best wear protection and top rated oils for wear in Rats testing is 0-20 and 0-30 oils. Here you can read for hours.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

You only want thicker oil weight if you have large clearances and/or a weak oil pump. All that maters is the boundary layer of oil holds up between the hard parts so they don't collide and weld together, anything beyond that just robs power and slows you down.

Everything you posted is correct imo. But there are some differences in semi synthetic and full synthetic, one of them is Viscosity Index, the higher the number, the more stable the oil viscosity. A higher index oil will flow easier at cold temps and won’t become to thin when overheated. Film strength is only one part of equation and not the sole factor in oil selection.

It’s true that the lower viscosity will produce less windage and allow things like piston rings and bearings to move more freely, thus increasing horsepower. Cylinder and rings will actually see reduced wear with thinner oils. The problem is things like flat tappet cams without rollers (like a 998/1049) need a thicker oil to prevent wear, it’s a balancing act. Also things like the turbo bearings that get extremely hot especially with a tune, need the full synthetic for best protection from coking.

Anyone running the high boost valve springs should be running a racing oil with special additives and a slightly thicker oil like 0-40w full synthetic to prevent cam/bucket wear.

Running a 0-40w full synthetic vs a 5-30w semi synthetic has advantages like it actually flows better at really cold temps like -35 below. It also will protect the camshaft better if the engine were to overheat. The only real drawback is the horsepower issue, yes you will possibly loose 5 horsepower due to the oil being slightly thicker at run temperatures.

Cylinder wear between the too oils is negligible, yes you might show a slight increase in wear from the slightly heavier oil but buy the time a 998/1049 has worn the cylinders/rings enough to need replacement is going to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 50k miles, a non issue with sleds. I doubt the cam and buckets will last that long. Cam and bucket wear is more of an issue with the Genesis than cylinder wear, thats what I’m getting at.

Cheers and stay safe, CM

 

[yamamarc]

Is it just me or is everyone over thinking this topic!!lol
Why not just stick with yamalube?
They advertise a 20year 160000km warranty if used !

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube-advantage

Lots of great info here but for myself I will only and have always used yamalube in yamaha 4 stroke motors

 

[stevewithOCD]

Is it just me or is everyone over thinking this topic!!lol
Why not just stick with yamalube?
They advertise a 20year 160000km warranty if used !

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube-advantage

Lots of great info here but for myself I will only and have always used yamalube in yamaha 4 stroke motors

This subject gets SLAMMED every spring/summer when we're bored, or in this case, LOCKED UP!
0w-30 Semi-Syn or 0w-30 to 0w-40 Full Syn or even 5w-30. Pick a decent name brand & you'll be fine,


OK, here's the funny part.
Since i'm now stuck with a 2-stroke, the debate on oil is even CRAZIER on those forums!

 

[SidewinderConvert]

This subject gets SLAMMED every spring/summer when we're bored, or in this case, LOCKED UP!
0w-30 Semi-Syn or 0w-30 to 0w-40 Full Syn or even 5w-30. Pick a decent name brand & you'll be fine,


OK, here's the funny part.
Since i'm now stuck with a 2-stroke, the debate on oil is even CRAZIER on those forums!

Don't even get me started on 2-stroke oil. Running on my 2006 2-strokes they seemed so picky. One brand oil runs fine, another would smoke super heavy and foul plugs out... A third the reason I went to a 4 stroke is to not deal with oil. (1/3rd reliability and 1/3rd power).

 

[Fast]

Is it just me or is everyone over thinking this topic!!lol
Why not just stick with yamalube?
They advertise a 20year 160000km warranty if used !

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube-advantage

Lots of great info here but for myself I will only and have always used yamalube in yamaha 4 stroke

Thats how this post started, i went to buy 0W30 yamalube and the dealer said they don't have it anymore and want to push there 0W40 since the manual states 0W30 i want to stay with that, after talking to customer service they still make it just have to order it in individual bottles doesn't come in a kit, they say they both work it's the 0 weight were concerned with, read the document on oils in an earlier post becsuse the 5W30 mobile 1 everyone is useing isn't very good at thermal breakdown penzoil conventional with additive is better

 

[yamamarc]

Fast:
The Yamaha dealer in blind river has 0-30 if your dealer doesn't sell it anymore! Ypu just call ahead and they do curbside pick up (because of c19)
If you ever decide to go there to pick some up drive a little further to massey and stop buy for a coffee or beer
I am only 1 min off hwy17

 

[JLR]

As Professor Knapp quoted, just read this blog. Or, just skip to the listing you're referring to. The "Wear Protection Ranking List" is in section 1 about 1/2 way through the blog.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Maybe someone can send some Yamaha oil for him to test and then everyone will know how the oil is.

 

[Turboflash]

That would be great (ditto Arctic Cat CTec-4 oil). Why not just pick one up near the top of the list and run that?
Attached is the "Top 20" list per the blog.

 

[74Nitro]

Is it just me or is everyone over thinking this topic!!lol
Why not just stick with yamalube?
They advertise a 20year 160000km warranty if used !

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube-advantage

Lots of great info here but for myself I will only and have always used yamalube in yamaha 4 stroke motors

I guess that's why they charge so much for it. It's like an insurance policy so to speak.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Is it just me or is everyone over thinking this topic!!lol
Why not just stick with yamalube?
They advertise a 20year 160000km warranty if used !

https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/yamalube-advantage

Lots of great info here but for myself I will only and have always used yamalube in yamaha 4 stroke motors

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Sid...-Oil-Change-Kit-LUB-SMBCG-KT-20-/264256397513

No offense but Yamaha is raking you over the coals for 4 quarts of semi-synthetic oil and filter for $60. They don’t even list VI index or any of the oils properties, more than likely because it’s not very good.
I can get Mobil 1 full synthetic 5 quarts for under $30 and a wix filer for $7. I would be willing to bet bank that neither filter, nor the oil are close to the quality.
If your buying it for the warranty, good luck with that.

 

[ClutchMaster]

How many motors do you think have been warrantied due to “engine oil failure”

Don’t be a sucker for claims that will never get paid out, trust me the number is zero.