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0W40

If you have a machine that is out of warranty but has been using Yamalube for its entire life, do you actually think they are going to replace or repair your engine if it fails?
 

Here's my logic on oil: I am riding a $16000 snowmobile with more than $4000 worth of "add-ons", and I spend $5000 to $7500 per winter going on trips. Unfortunately, my usual seasonal mileage is such that I only need to change oil once per season. To me, I consider it money well spent to use the very best oil money can buy to protect my 320 HP engine, no matter what it costs. I really don't care if I spend $40 or $90 or $190 doing an oil change protecting a $5000 engine (Cat's price). All I care about is running what my "research" shows to be the very best (best engine protection) oil money can buy. At this moment, I don't know where Yamaha's or Cat's oil would rank on this list but I'd be willing to bet they wouldn't be in the top 20 on the list.
I am very data-driven due to my college degree in Mathematics and my working career. I like numbers. I trust Rat540's testing so for now I run Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30. Check out his listing. Amsoil (0W-20 & 5W-30) has number 2 & 3 on the list. No, I don't sell or work for Amsoil!
P.S. Wix 51365 filter. 21 micron w 14-18 psi bypass.
 

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Here's my logic on oil: I am riding a $16000 snowmobile with more than $4000 worth of "add-ons", and I spend $5000 to $7500 per winter going on trips. Unfortunately, my usual seasonal mileage is such that I only need to change oil once per season. To me, I consider it money well spent to use the very best oil money can buy to protect my 320 HP engine, no matter what it costs. I really don't care if I spend $40 or $90 or $190 doing an oil change protecting a $5000 engine (Cat's price). All I care about is running what my "research" shows to be the very best (best engine protection) oil money can buy. At this moment, I don't know where Yamaha's or Cat's oil would rank on this list but I'd be willing to bet they wouldn't be in the top 20 on the list.
I am very data-driven due to my college degree in Mathematics and my working career. I like numbers. I trust Rat540's testing so for now I run Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30. Check out his listing. Amsoil (0W-20 & 5W-30) has number 2 & 3 on the list. No, I don't sell or work for Amsoil!
P.S. Wix 51365 filter. 21 micron w 14-18 psi bypass.


Absolutely!

Yep I run redline 30wt racing oil. Spec chart shows it about the same as a 0-w40 but it’s listed as a 30wt. The reason I run it is the additive package has excellent wear resistance for flat tappet cams. It’s a tad thick for winter and cylinder wear but it also is just about perfect viscosity for my bearing clearance since polishing the crank. I also like a little thicker oil because I have already had previous turbo bearing failures using 0-30
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Sid...-Oil-Change-Kit-LUB-SMBCG-KT-20-/264256397513

No offense but Yamaha is raking you over the coals for 4 quarts of semi-synthetic oil and filter for $60. They don’t even list VI index or any of the oils properties, more than likely because it’s not very good.
I can get Mobil 1 full synthetic 5 quarts for under $30 and a wix filer for $7. I would be willing to bet bank that neither filter, nor the oil are close to the quality.
If your buying it for the warranty, good luck with that.
No offense taken at all CM.
I am not using yamalube for the warranty!!!lol
My sled is modified so I wouldn't hold my breath if i had a catastrophic failure i was just pointing out that they offer a warranty with there oil!!

Like my previous comment I don't over think it!!! I just change my oil once a season with yamalube that cost maybe 20$ more a year and ride the crap out of the sled!
 
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How many motors do you think have been warrantied due to “engine oil failure”

Don’t be a sucker for claims that will never get paid out, trust me the number is zero.
Exactly, and even if they did have to pay it out on a few(which they won't) the amount they make on over charging us for it more than covers the costs of a few engines.
Take Kinger for example, he can't even get a complete engine out of them.
 
I have been very loyal using Yamalube for years and years in my own sled and all my customers. It was more reasonable at one time, but these last couple years it feels like they are really bending us over. Enough is enough.
I went to the Canadian Tire website and they carry the Quakerstate European formula 0W30. I clicked to send the notification for when this oil comes on sale and I will be there buying a couple dozen jugs. It will be close to $6CAD/Liter.
 
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Sorry to get a bit off topic here, but to further add insult to injury, it is very frustrating that we continue to see increasing oil prices(not just with Yamaha) in the face of lower crude oil prices.
Just before the oil price crash in 2014 in Ontario we were paying $1.35/Liter for regular fuel, but with the decline of the barrel we are seeing fuel prices that are close to half that.
Why do retail oil products continue to increase? What am I missing?
 
Do pigs fly.....?
So the process would be , in the event that you blew up your engine after 10 years , you would need to produce 10 years of receipts of Yamalube to be eligible ?
Who out there is that well organized /? , that they would have those handy in the event that happened .
Someone on this site must have gone thru this .
Heck I didn't even do the XS belt warranty guidelines correctly .
Thankfully that belt owes me nothing as it has been on for 2 years , and still going strong .

Do you think Yamaha , determined , possibly from following this site , or maybe from dealer feedback , that they were loosing sales of their oil change kits by not having a fully synthetic option ?
 
I'm an AMSOIL guy and this is why:
1. They were the first, or one of, to perfect synthetic oils
2. I buy it within a $1 of other comparable oils
3. It's ALWAYS in the top 3 or 4 of EVERY oil test i see along with Mobil1 & the older Pennzoil
4. They sponsor tons of events, including SnoCross, which helps racing and OUR sport!
5. I like saying the word AMSOIL. Makes me happy

What amazes me the most is some people that will go crazy saving $.50 or a $1 per bottle. That's 3 or $4 per change.
NOW $15 a quart is top dollar and if i could find name Brand oil for $5, i'd use it.
BUT, i find the good oils are $9 to $12 per quart.

ow-30 or ow-40?
We've got 7 months to talk, debate & argue this. LET's GO!
 
Sorry to get a bit off topic here, but to further add insult to injury, it is very frustrating that we continue to see increasing oil prices(not just with Yamaha) in the face of lower crude oil prices.
Just before the oil price crash in 2014 in Ontario we were paying $1.35/Liter for regular fuel, but with the decline of the barrel we are seeing fuel prices that are close to half that.
Why do retail oil products continue to increase? What am I missing?
I hear ya!!! We get boned the worst for fuel in Ontario!!! For some reason the Sudbury and surrounding areas and typically .10 to 0.15$/l more then the rest of Ontario but yet drive to Sturgeon falls (1 hr east of Sudbury and they are on par with southern Ontario :dunno:
Gas price this morning on my way home from work was 0.80$/litre
 
I remember my (scientist/phd/Dr.) friend for Castrol in New Jersey (visited his lab that he was developing new cleaner fuels) tell me that multi weights add polymers to improve viscosity, but they are not oil. But since temperature changes are drastic we can't change weights all the time. But straight weights are all oil, no polymers. I run 5 20 synthetic in everything (from a supercharged mustang, Lexus, to old cub cadets, lawn mowers, sawmill engine, etc...lots of engines. Diesel ram and tractors get Rotella synthetic)
5 20 synthetic even in my old apex and vectors, and rx1's, but once in a while put 0 40 synthetic in. Right or wrong, who knows. Never had any issues. 2 stroke chainsaws and weedeaters get only Bombardier injection oil at 50:1. Even my 1970's era 700 pro mac Mccullochs get it and love it. The relatively clean synthetic (from the lexus and mustang) used oil is my bar oil. I have very little bar wear (the burr you get near the chain slot over time) using synthetic compared to regular bar oil.
 
I'm an AMSOIL guy and this is why:
1. They were the first, or one of, to perfect synthetic oils
2. I buy it within a $1 of other comparable oils
3. It's ALWAYS in the top 3 or 4 of EVERY oil test i see along with Mobil1 & the older Pennzoil
4. They sponsor tons of events, including SnoCross, which helps racing and OUR sport!
5. I like saying the word AMSOIL. Makes me happy

What amazes me the most is some people that will go crazy saving $.50 or a $1 per bottle. That's 3 or $4 per change.
NOW $15 a quart is top dollar and if i could find name Brand oil for $5, i'd use it.
BUT, i find the good oils are $9 to $12 per quart.

ow-30 or ow-40?
We've got 7 months to talk, debate & argue this. LET's GO!


$4.60 a quart

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-30-5-qt/17034369

I would bet the farm this oil will out perform the Yamalube semi synthetic by a mile.
 
I remember my (scientist/phd/Dr.) friend for Castrol in New Jersey (visited his lab that he was developing new cleaner fuels) tell me that multi weights add polymers to improve viscosity, but they are not oil. But since temperature changes are drastic we can't change weights all the time. But straight weights are all oil, no polymers. I run 5 20 synthetic in everything (from a supercharged mustang, Lexus, to old cub cadets, lawn mowers, sawmill engine, etc...lots of engines. Diesel ram and tractors get Rotella synthetic)
5 20 synthetic even in my old apex and vectors, and rx1's, but once in a while put 0 40 synthetic in. Right or wrong, who knows. Never had any issues. 2 stroke chainsaws and weedeaters get only Bombardier injection oil at 50:1. Even my 1970's era 700 pro mac Mccullochs get it and love it. The relatively clean synthetic (from the lexus and mustang) used oil is my bar oil. I have very little bar wear (the burr you get near the chain slot over time) using synthetic compared to regular bar oil.
Running 5w-20 in old air cooled engines is a serious risk, I wouldn’t recommend that. Those engines have a lot more bearing clearance than newer engines, many are splash lubrication, and can develop a rod knock from running that thin of an oil. You would be better off running the Rotella in those motors.

Hey guess what, there’s actually a reason they make so many different weight oils. It’s because different engines require different Viscosities. If your not familiar with why your engine runs a specific grade oil, changing to a different grade oil is playing with fire.
 
I hear ya!!! We get boned the worst for fuel in Ontario!!! For some reason the Sudbury and surrounding areas and typically .10 to 0.15$/l more then the rest of Ontario but yet drive to Sturgeon falls (1 hr east of Sudbury and they are on par with southern Ontario :dunno:
Gas price this morning on my way home from work was 0.80$/litre
I wasn't really complaining about the price of fuel, as we need to remember that there is about 40 cents per liter of tax in there. My point is that if fuel has come down at the retail level, then so should oil.
 


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