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129 uncoupled

Short thread in the Viper section about completely removing the blocks and rod:

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/rtx-weight-transfer-rod.152570/#post-1420701

Lots more on this topic in the Viper section. But the more searching you do, the more you will find that the 129 transfers weight way better/more than the 137 ... regardless of blocks/rod in or out.
One other note ... There have been a few cases on the 137 sleds that have removed both the blocks and the rod, only to have the rear scissors actually come in contact with the rear idler wheel. But this is not the case on the 129. The 129 has plenty of clearance.
 

Crossfire12 said:
These torsion n springs are heavy, I'm 270 and it only squats 1 in on lowest setting. Does anybody know which one I can change to?
Click to expand...

in regards to the 137....there is no spring as of couple months ago....including all of cats arsenal...in fact the spring installed is the "optional light weight spring" ...you'd need to verify this..but I bet its the same with the 129" (shorter long leg)
 
SJ I see hygear has torsional replacements ,I haven't called them yet but I want to know how much weaker are they . They mention if your under 225 or under. Well I'm 270. I'll call tomorrow!
 
Crossfire12 said:
SJ I see hygear has torsional replacements ,I haven't called them yet but I want to know how much weaker are they . They mention if your under 225 or under. Well I'm 270. I'll call tomorrow!
Click to expand...

it is NOT a replacement...its a spring with the short leg bent to delay or reduce preload...so a modded oem spring...IMHO Id try what travis at Barn of Parts is making first...this idea was mine with travis great engineering work....it will provide a broader range than the modded spring I feel...and I have concerns with hygears since they are modding the spring...could it fatigue the metal and break prematurely?

travis needs to call it the Torsion Tamer !
 
Just removing the block and rod is NOT the same as the uncoupled stock skids since none of those have the slide action on the front arm.
 
DMCTurbo said:
Why is it called a slide action? It doesn't move does it?
Click to expand...
Yes it actually does. 1/2in is what they claim. Supposed to help keep front end from lifting at launch. RR doesn't have the rubber pads in there and you can hear it hit once in awhile. 1/2 in doesn't seem like a lot but when you think about it that 1/2 in is changing geometry of whole skid front and back. Is nice for skid removal and should help prevent binding. Downside is that shaft it slides on can be knocked right out of tunnel.
 
cannondale27 said:
Yes it actually does. 1/2in is what they claim. Supposed to help keep front end from lifting at launch. RR doesn't have the rubber pads in there and you can hear it hit once in awhile. 1/2 in doesn't seem like a lot but when you think about it that 1/2 in is changing geometry of whole skid front and back. Is nice for skid removal and should help prevent binding. Downside is that shaft it slides on can be knocked right out of tunnel.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks I had no idea it worked that way.
 
Well if I can get by with the rod out and not damage my stock wheels I am ready to give this a test.
 
For those wondering what a coupled skid is vs an uncoupled skid. In a coupled skid when you compress the front, the front of the skid will only go up so far (until the rear scissor hits the front stop) and then both front and rear swing together compressing both shocks. When you compress only reared the skid, rear scissor folds back until it contacts transfer stop, and then both front and rear arms move together using both shocks. This is great on trail but terrible off trail. On trail, coupled keeps the skis in contact with snow because the differential movement between front and rear off rails is limited. In an uncoupled skid, front arm can collapse without compressing the rear, or rear can compress without compressing the front. This is great off trail where you need the skid to follow terrain to give maximum contact patch for track, but bad for trail because the front tends to get really light under acceleration, and heavy under decel. For those of us that have uncoupled a 137 or 129 by removing the transfer rod, you can expect a bit more harsh ride as your shocks are valved to work together in a coupled skid. Having more than a year on an uncoupled 137, I won't go back to coupled, however, the majority of my riding is off trail, and I don't do any trail riding over 60 mph.
 
Turtle said:
Short thread in the Viper section about completely removing the blocks and rod:

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/rtx-weight-transfer-rod.152570/#post-1420701

Lots more on this topic in the Viper section. But the more searching you do, the more you will find that the 129 transfers weight way better/more than the 137 ... regardless of blocks/rod in or out.
One other note ... There have been a few cases on the 137 sleds that have removed both the blocks and the rod, only to have the rear scissors actually come in contact with the rear idler wheel. But this is not the case on the 129. The 129 has plenty of clearance.
Click to expand...
I think this has only been a problem with oversized fourth wheel kits, but you need to make sure they clear.
 
I have my blocks out since new and shocks set in 1 and torsions set on the lightest and I just tried to compress the rear and the stoppers didn’t quite touch the rod my wife was watching. Pretty sure a good jump and warmed up it would hit the rod. I just removed the rod so we shall see if there is anymore transfer
 
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