marioandretti
Newbie
Hi everyone!
This site is awesome, so much great info. It helped me in my decision to pickup my first REAL sled.
I still have a few outstanding questions for the guru's around here...
The sled came with a "pouch" that installs under the gauge cluster just in front of the steering stem (it even has a small label that has "arctic cat" on it. It fits nicely in the cavity, but it has mesh on the bottom of the pouch - is it safe to put my phone/gps or delicate items in there while riding? I'd imagine heat from the motor would keep it warm enough...
What headlights are better than stock? I've used LED's in my motorcycle before and they are MUCH better than the stock halogens...
what's the deal with checking the engine oil? I've checked microfiches and there should be a sight glass but I can't find one anywhere on the tank (just behind the exhaust right?). Is there a dipstick on the top filler cap?
Also, the chaincase oil window is full when not running. should I drain some to get it to half the window level? I've been reading up on the infamous chain case drip that seems to have been sorted with a newer gasket. Previous owner wasn't sure if that gasket was replaced at the appropriate service interval. I'd hate to open it up to drain it and have to replace all the oil and the gasket again.
The sled has the "newer" motor and has had the update to the ecu. approx. 3500miles and is all original including the non-studded track.
Anything else I should be aware of before it becomes a bigger problem?
I know all sleds/powersports models have their quirks and I'm keen on learning everything I can as I plan to keep this one for a loooong time.
edit: I also have a "squeak/clunk" type noise coming from the rearmost shock when I compress the rear suspension. nothing is bent or broken except when I grab the shock with my hand and wiggle it, there is slight play back and forth. the movement is the whole shock moving, as if the shock isn't mounted "tight" at the top or bottom mouting bolts. Is this normal?
I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go haha
Cheers and thanks!
This site is awesome, so much great info. It helped me in my decision to pickup my first REAL sled.
I still have a few outstanding questions for the guru's around here...
The sled came with a "pouch" that installs under the gauge cluster just in front of the steering stem (it even has a small label that has "arctic cat" on it. It fits nicely in the cavity, but it has mesh on the bottom of the pouch - is it safe to put my phone/gps or delicate items in there while riding? I'd imagine heat from the motor would keep it warm enough...
What headlights are better than stock? I've used LED's in my motorcycle before and they are MUCH better than the stock halogens...
what's the deal with checking the engine oil? I've checked microfiches and there should be a sight glass but I can't find one anywhere on the tank (just behind the exhaust right?). Is there a dipstick on the top filler cap?
Also, the chaincase oil window is full when not running. should I drain some to get it to half the window level? I've been reading up on the infamous chain case drip that seems to have been sorted with a newer gasket. Previous owner wasn't sure if that gasket was replaced at the appropriate service interval. I'd hate to open it up to drain it and have to replace all the oil and the gasket again.
The sled has the "newer" motor and has had the update to the ecu. approx. 3500miles and is all original including the non-studded track.
Anything else I should be aware of before it becomes a bigger problem?
I know all sleds/powersports models have their quirks and I'm keen on learning everything I can as I plan to keep this one for a loooong time.
edit: I also have a "squeak/clunk" type noise coming from the rearmost shock when I compress the rear suspension. nothing is bent or broken except when I grab the shock with my hand and wiggle it, there is slight play back and forth. the movement is the whole shock moving, as if the shock isn't mounted "tight" at the top or bottom mouting bolts. Is this normal?
I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go haha
Cheers and thanks!
Last edited:
- Joined
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- 54
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- Schofield, WI
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- www.totallyamaha.com
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- Snowmobile
- 2020 Sidewinder SRX
- Yes that pouch will be fine for cell but it will bounce around a bit and it will keep it nice and toasty!
- HIDs are the best in the Viper
- Oil at the top of site glass is fine, thats not the leak issue , its the engine oil tank that has a crappy seal
Last edited:
ateick
Expert
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2019
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '24 Rene XRS 900R
'18 SR Viper RTX (SOLD)
'20 Poo XCR 850 (SOLD)
Pouch is great accessory. Lots of heat there to keep phone, wallet, gloves warm and dry. It's a good spot to run power to so you can charge the phone.
LEDs have worked for me and others and do a search on the site for Rock's HID's. Very highly rated and a site sponsor i believe.
74Nitro
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
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- 5,265
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- 52
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- Dublin Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
What part of Ontario are you from?
Yamajon1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2016
- Messages
- 944
- Location
- Oshkosh Wisconsin
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2016 SR Viper RTX DX
Former Yamaha sleds:
2004 Venture 600 2002 SX Viper 700
1997 Vmax 600 SX 1994 Vmax 600 1989 Exciter
1986 Vmax 540 1986 Phaser 1981 SRX 440
Love the HID’s from Rocz in my 16, one of the best upgrades I’ve done. Newer engines in the 16’s do not have the sight glass for engine oil they use a dip stick on the cap. Chain case filled to top of sight glass is OK, a little over seems to be good for these. The cover gasket is reusable the original is black the updated one is orange. That pouch is marketed as a heated goggle bag, I don’t use goggles but have one just for the extra storage and it gets nice and warm. I’ve used it for my phone with a padded sleeve so it doesn’t get bounced around to much.
A few things to look out for the rear tri hub bearings have been trouble for some lots of people add a 4th wheel kit J& T makes a good set up. Next time the chain case is apart might want to tack weld the screws that hold the tensioner arms roller they have been known to come loose and destroy things. Lots of info on here in the Frequently Asked Question area at the top of the SR Viper forum.
A few things to look out for the rear tri hub bearings have been trouble for some lots of people add a 4th wheel kit J& T makes a good set up. Next time the chain case is apart might want to tack weld the screws that hold the tensioner arms roller they have been known to come loose and destroy things. Lots of info on here in the Frequently Asked Question area at the top of the SR Viper forum.
marioandretti
Newbie
marioandretti
Newbie
ok thx for the reply Mrsled!
when it comes time for an oil change (which I want to do asap.), I have to drain the oil from the motor (small hex head bolt near the oil filter) AND the oil tank? it is known as a dry sump?
also, the book states I can run 87 octane. Will the sled run any better on 91 or higher? I found it interesting that the fuel cap states 91 only on it.
I can't stand ethanol in my seasonal powersports. Shell FTW!
Yamajon1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2016
- Messages
- 944
- Location
- Oshkosh Wisconsin
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2016 SR Viper RTX DX
Former Yamaha sleds:
2004 Venture 600 2002 SX Viper 700
1997 Vmax 600 SX 1994 Vmax 600 1989 Exciter
1986 Vmax 540 1986 Phaser 1981 SRX 440
Yes drain engine and tank when changing oil. I notice no improvement with 91 and just run 87. With the issues these sleds have starting when below zero I like the lower octane.
ateick
Expert
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2019
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '24 Rene XRS 900R
'18 SR Viper RTX (SOLD)
'20 Poo XCR 850 (SOLD)
Last thoughts would be clutching. Two things: 1. Stock these tend to have a high jumpy engagement which can make it a challenge sometimes moving it around slowly, loading on trailer, etc. 2. Great torquey low/mid motor tends to run out of steam at 90ish mph. There are some sponsors (Thunder Products, Barn of Parts, etc.) that sell clutch kits to help with either or both of those things. Don't get me wrong, lots of fun as is but if you like to play around with stuff there is room for improvement.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
I have the BOP soft start spring in my daughters Viper. Works very well.
ateick
Expert
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2019
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '24 Rene XRS 900R
'18 SR Viper RTX (SOLD)
'20 Poo XCR 850 (SOLD)
I just put the OEM soft start white-pink-white spring #90501-583L5-00 in this season for my wife/son to use. I'll see how it works.
farmerjack
Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2019
- Messages
- 6
- Age
- 75
- Location
- Romeo, Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2016 SR Viper LTX-DX
I put the BOP soft spring in my 2016 LTX-DX before last season. What a difference. Made the sled so much more enjoyable w/o the high rev engagement of the clutch. I never ride much over 50mph so top end effect I will never notice.
marioandretti
Newbie
Ok this is the first I’ve ever heard of these soft springs. If it makes for a better on/off throttle launch “feel” and smoother down low takeoffs I’m all for it!
What exactly is involved?
I don’t mind learning!
I assume the BOP stuff is cheaper than OEM?
marioandretti
Newbie
Ok thx!
I’m old enough now to appreciate handling and suspension much more than top speed lake runs.
Lake runs are fun every now and then but twisties and ditch banging are much more enjoyable.
Welcome! Great to see new guys on the Vipers. They are a awesome sled and personally I havent found anything else better or equal to mine overall so I just keep riding it!
