2003 Jackshaft up date with pic.

One more thing i forgot to add! My sled killed a belt in about 1,500 miles. I thought it was just the NOS i was running but thought i would check my offset and bought the offset tool. It was off about the same amout that it would be if i put the 04-05 washers in place. At the time i had to pull two washer off the back side and put just that one small one in place. The offset was right on then and never hurt a belt again. So i will just set the off set right with the small washer and call her good! That is the main thing.After looking at the sled it does not matter where the jack shaft is at it would not change the offset of the clutch at all at lest not moving the clutch in. The washer are against the bearing. Sorry did not mean to talk your ears off. You might want to check your offset.

Thank you Skydog ;)! :rocks:
 
So guys has Yamaha ever admitted to this problem other than make the parts available to dealers and warranty some machines as they were still under warranty or extended warranty?
I just finished doing mine and was told by the dealer here in Canada that there has been at least 3 incidents locally that caused severe damage to the bulk head, engine, hood, and chaincase in which they had to cover two under warranty, I pity the other person that didn’t get there’s covered. Anyway I think it would have been in their best interest financially to recall this and have these updates put in before someone gets killed out there. Yamaha has good fit and finish in their products and obviously has recognized this to be a problem as they have updated the 04’s and up, so why don’t they own up to this and fix this at their cost? After doing mine, I couldn’t believe how that thing was originally put together!!!!! There were several updates from the 03’s to the 04’s and I’m not saying that Yamaha should have fixed all of them, but I believe this one should have been done. They fixed the rivets on the tunnel by the seat under warranty because these were ripping the seat, why didn’t they do the same with these and only replace the seats if they had too? A ripped seat will not kill anyone!!!!!!!
 
Sky,
Do you have the torque specs for the new sleeve and nut. By design of the tapered bore bearing, as you tighten the nut you reduce internal bearing clearance which increases preloads. High tight is tight??? Also need the torque spec for the chaincase side top gear nut.

;)!
 
I dont know how you would ever get a torque wrench in there. I just tap with long screw driver and hammer until you feel her snug up good. For the top nut on the chain case. I dont have that socket to fit that, just got her tight with a pipe wrench. Boy does that sound like back yard! HAHA

Skydog
 
I had someone hold the tapered inner collar with a screwdriver in 1 of the slots, to prevent it from turning. I reached in with vice-grips, being EXTREMELY careful to use just enough force to grip the 'nut' without crushing it. You can get maybe 1/8th of a turn, then repeat many, many times. Very tedious, but it eventually tightened.
 
Doing the update today. Couldn't quite tell from the pic and want to be sure to get the nut on right. One side of the nut has a built-in washer that goes about 3/4 of the way around. Does that go on the inside? Appears to go this way on the yamaha parts diagram. What's confusing me is the cowl hinge, has a similar built-in washers, which are are on the outside.

Also, I measured the distance of the bearing from the end of the shaft using a caliper, before pressing off the bearing/03 style collar. Planning to set it the same length and tighen the nut before putting the jackshaft back in, that way the secondary offset should be the same. Good idea or am I missing something? Seems like an easier way to tighten the nut.

Al
 
LiLAl said:
Doing the update today. Couldn't quite tell from the pic and want to be sure to get the nut on right. One side of the nut has a built-in washer that goes about 3/4 of the way around. Does that go on the inside? Appears to go this way on the yamaha parts diagram. What's confusing me is the cowl hinge, has a similar built-in washers, which are are on the outside.

Also, I measured the distance of the bearing from the end of the shaft using a caliper, before pressing off the bearing/03 style collar. Planning to set it the same length and tighen the nut before putting the jackshaft back in, that way the secondary offset should be the same. Good idea or am I missing something? Seems like an easier way to tighten the nut.

Al

I know in the parts manual it looks like the little shoulder/lip goes towards the bearing side, but with the way the threads are, it is very hard to tell if you have the nut started correctly(not cross threaded) on the threads. When you flip the nut around and put the other side towards the bearing it starts much easier and will still self lock(the reason it starts hard the other way) when it gets to that point on the threads. As far as setting the distance on the shaft, thats easy..just install the chaincase side of the shaft first and the secondary side will take care of itself.
 
I put mine on as indicated on the parts diagram. Yes, it was more difficult, but I was only doing it by the picture. I'm fairly certain it goes on the way Travis described, however after looking at it over and over, I don't really think it means a hill of beans which way it goes on. Either way, it's going to lock the collar on, and the whole shaft spins regardless, so there won't be anything necessarily wearing (on the bearing that is).

Yamaha strikes out in my book when it comes to diagrams. In more than one instance, I've assembled things backwards because their pictures showed it that way......(taking the stator all back apart was not my idea of a good time)....

Jon
 
ecopter said:
I put mine on as indicated on the parts diagram. Yes, it was more difficult, but I was only doing it by the picture. I'm fairly certain it goes on the way Travis described, however after looking at it over and over, I don't really think it means a hill of beans which way it goes on. Either way, it's going to lock the collar on, and the whole shaft spins regardless, so there won't be anything necessarily wearing (on the bearing that is).

Yamaha strikes out in my book when it comes to diagrams. In more than one instance, I've assembled things backwards because their pictures showed it that way......(taking the stator all back apart was not my idea of a good time)....

Jon

I do not think it matters which way, either. I was just more concerned about getting it started strait.
 
Yea it acts just like a locking nut. So you put it on like a locking nut. But it does not matter both ways will work!! Hell it did not even have a nut before!

Skydog
 
Ok. Thanks. Didn't end up doing it today, but I'll probably flip it around, so it goes on easier. I did notice it was hard to tell if you have it cross-threaded or not the other way. BTW, most I have ever paid for a nut - 46 cdn $.
 
Anyone know the torque spec for the updated nut/collar? I made a crude socket out of 1" i.d. galvanized pipe and cap, so I'm going to try and use my torque wrench.
 
LiLAl said:
Anyone know the torque spec for the updated nut/collar? I made a crude socket out of 1" i.d. galvanized pipe and cap, so I'm going to try and use my torque wrench.


You do know that the jack shaft needs to be in the bearing to tighten the nut. Just the way you said that you made a socket made me think you are tighten it w/o the shaft in place.
 
Yes. After I posted, I realized that someone might wonder what I'm doing. I'm hoping to get the torque spec before I head to the garage this evening. Here's the plan:

The gear is on/torque'd on the gearcase side of the jackshaft. Remove the chain from the top gear, that will let the jackshaft spin while tightening. Hold the locking nut with a small pipe wrench. Torque wrench with homemade socket on the collar. Turn torque wrench to tighten. I figure 15 minutes making the pipe/cap socket will be well worth it for future jackshaft removal, if this works out.
 


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