Shane
Expert
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2004
- Messages
- 387
- Location
- Niskayuna, NY
- Website
- www.fa.ml.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 YAMAHA VIPER LTX SE
2015 Ski-Doo 800 XRS Renegade
2012 Ski-Doo 600 ace
2010 Ski-Doo 600 e-tec GTX Limited
2007 Polaris Dragon 120
I just picked up a new ATTAK and have about 500 miles on it. I rode an APEX all winter so I have little set up time on the new ATTAK. I am looking to get the most out of my new ATTAK within the limits of its design. It is obviously not the mogul masher that a Renegade is, but it was also not designed to be a mogul masher. No sense in trying to make it something it is not. However, I would like to maximize it's handling, rough trail ride and overall performance. I had HYGEAR SUSPENSION do my APEX with Add on Rez-e's and dual rate springs as well as revalve work and LOVED IT! The front end definitely needs attention on the ATTAK and I have a 13mm sway bar on order from Bruce at Pioneer. I have the FAT BOY spring on the rear, the C-Clip set on the middle, the cam on position #5. I am wondering if I need to go full blown HYGEAR again. No doubt, Ross is a GREAT GUY and knows his stuff!
The sled came stock with the limiter strap in the next to loosest hole and I tightened it up one notch to improve handling. I think the front shocks need some spring and valving, or do I just replace them all together? I took out weight transfer to help the dreaded push in the corners, but I have not ridden since making the change and adding the FAT BOY SPRING. It seems like most of you guys are actually adding weight transfer and not sacrificing turning capability. What am I missing here fellas? I ride very aggressively and weigh in without gear at 235. I absolutley HATE the severe bottoming of the big G-OUT's these sleds are known for. Thanks in advance guys!
The sled came stock with the limiter strap in the next to loosest hole and I tightened it up one notch to improve handling. I think the front shocks need some spring and valving, or do I just replace them all together? I took out weight transfer to help the dreaded push in the corners, but I have not ridden since making the change and adding the FAT BOY SPRING. It seems like most of you guys are actually adding weight transfer and not sacrificing turning capability. What am I missing here fellas? I ride very aggressively and weigh in without gear at 235. I absolutley HATE the severe bottoming of the big G-OUT's these sleds are known for. Thanks in advance guys!
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
I've removed your other two threads on the same topic from the Suspension and Mod-Results forums as only one thread is necessary. Guys on this site will help you. 
Shane
Expert
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2004
- Messages
- 387
- Location
- Niskayuna, NY
- Website
- www.fa.ml.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 YAMAHA VIPER LTX SE
2015 Ski-Doo 800 XRS Renegade
2012 Ski-Doo 600 ace
2010 Ski-Doo 600 e-tec GTX Limited
2007 Polaris Dragon 120
Okay. thanks. Sorry for the admin work I caused you! Didn't know where would be the best place for it.
lyndske
Newbie
stock rear spring
Shane would you be interested in selling the stock rear spring? I have a 2005 RX1 and I also hate the bottoming. The stock spring rate of the RX1 is 4.5 kg/mm and the attack is 5.0 kg/mm. Last year I tried just increasing the spring preload but I found that it changed the handling and made it dart horribly. I have had the shock revalved by pioneer but it still bottoms. I weigh 180 so I think the 6.5 kg/mm spring is a little overkill for me. My shock is a kayaba so if yours is an ohlins it will not work for me. Thank You
Shane would you be interested in selling the stock rear spring? I have a 2005 RX1 and I also hate the bottoming. The stock spring rate of the RX1 is 4.5 kg/mm and the attack is 5.0 kg/mm. Last year I tried just increasing the spring preload but I found that it changed the handling and made it dart horribly. I have had the shock revalved by pioneer but it still bottoms. I weigh 180 so I think the 6.5 kg/mm spring is a little overkill for me. My shock is a kayaba so if yours is an ohlins it will not work for me. Thank You
Daranello
Suspended
I notice many people say to lowered the front spring preload Then pull up on the limiter strap one set of holes. Next, set your transfer rod to about midway between half and min.
Will this slow ya down on top end and playing in the pow?
Will this slow ya down on top end and playing in the pow?
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
I followed BountyHunter's advice and did the following to my Attak. Rides better now, i.e. flatter in the corners with no loss of softness in the bumps.
1) You need to take your Control Rod Wrench that Yamaha has supplied you and loosen off the Inner Nut. Now measure just whereabouts you are on the scale and check your adjuster length. You will see that there is a Min and a Max scale on the wrench. You adjust the Outter Nut and go about half way from the Standard mark in the middle to Max mark, that will be two marks on your wrench scale. That will make a big difference, now you can fine tune it from there whether you need more or less transfer.
2) Now go up front and loosen your front springs on your shocks right off. Then tighten them down finger tight and then go ONE FULL TURN, this will soften up the front end so it's not so stiff or hard and stop the bounce you get when you are hard into the turns.
1) You need to take your Control Rod Wrench that Yamaha has supplied you and loosen off the Inner Nut. Now measure just whereabouts you are on the scale and check your adjuster length. You will see that there is a Min and a Max scale on the wrench. You adjust the Outter Nut and go about half way from the Standard mark in the middle to Max mark, that will be two marks on your wrench scale. That will make a big difference, now you can fine tune it from there whether you need more or less transfer.
2) Now go up front and loosen your front springs on your shocks right off. Then tighten them down finger tight and then go ONE FULL TURN, this will soften up the front end so it's not so stiff or hard and stop the bounce you get when you are hard into the turns.
Daranello
Suspended
Ok so what im reading from you guys is:
1st Suck up the limiter 1 hole, (what hole is it)
2nd taking all of the preload off of the front springs,
3rd decreasing the weight transfer, ( will this make the back end loose)
4th adding the full Bergstrom ski setup
5th 13mm Sway bar
Is this right, Did I miss anything???
1st Suck up the limiter 1 hole, (what hole is it)
2nd taking all of the preload off of the front springs,
3rd decreasing the weight transfer, ( will this make the back end loose)
4th adding the full Bergstrom ski setup
5th 13mm Sway bar
Is this right, Did I miss anything???
rightarm
TY 4 Stroke Master
Don't let off on the gas when you reach the Apex of the turn it will increase the "push" instead drive through the Apex of the turn.
As well as the above mentioned
As well as the above mentioned
