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2015 STX DX Suspension setup help

Yama4stroke

Newbie
Joined
Jan 23, 2018
Messages
22
Age
34
Location
New Hudson
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2015 Yamaha viper STX-DX
I'm having a hell of a time getting my suspension setup. I've searched the forums and read through a lot of postings but most of it seems to be centered around the XTX's with the front air shocks. Ive taken what I can in relation to the rear skid as I believe the 141 STX and the 141 XTX are the same. I'm on a 2015 STX DX and it has coils on the front. I've played around adjusting things and it seems it either rides way too soft and I bottom out easily in the rough stuff and it pushes corners terribly or I stiffen things up and its rough and it lifts the inside ski really bad on any hard cornering.

I'm currently set up with the rear air shock at 160, the front skid coil shock has 15-16 threads showing, limiting straps are set in the middle holes and I have 36 threads showing on each front shock. Its currently lifting the inner ski really bad on corners and is riding on the rough side. Steering feels really heavy too. I have it here because it seems when I run it softer I'm dragging the snow flap the entire time and I pretty much can't put it in reverse without eating the flap. I'm 5'11" and about 220 with gear. I ride 99% on trail and would say I ride aggressively. I'm honestly not sure where to set the front shocks as everything I find in relation to sleds with the 141 skid is for sleds with the air shocks in front and not coils.

I've read about changing the front spring in the skid to a stiffer 135 or 145# spring but that's not an option at the moment as I'm leaving tomorrow night for a trip. It'll probably be something to change before next season. Any insight or advice on settings for me? I'd like it to steer as good as possible without lifting the inner ski and ride nice without bottoming out when the trail gets rough and ride high enough that the snow flap doesn't get eaten. Both sets of carbides are 6in and are new within the last 600 miles.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

Skis buddy and the carbides. Only thing I have heard makes Tuners work is those SnoTrackers or Shapers and at the price you pay for those might as well get skis that work with normal carbides. Cat would be cheapest and most available before weekend, I like my 6.9 Pilots. Can try tightening the limiter straps a hole or two and above all put the Nuts on the gas cap and hang off forward and into the corners.
 
I had 7.5" shaper bars on the outside with a 4 in carbide inside and it was slightly better than what I have now. Had a buddy get a new sled and had a bunch of extra 6" carbides I got for a steal. Ill look into changing skis before next season, possibly C&A's, a friend has them on his sidewinder and loves them.

I basically ride with my nuts on the gas cap already and hang off like a sportbike racer in the corners. I'd just really like it to ride better. I rode a buddies 18 LTX Sidewinder 137 with front coil shocks and it was like a dream compared to my STX, it cornered great and rode like a Cadillac. I know I'm on a different skid and its not gonna ride the same but I just can't believe that its either a good ride and it bottoms out on everything or its rough as hell. Unfortunately I don't really have anywhere to ride it around home to test and tune. I basically set it up and go to the UP for a weekend to ride. It seems every weekend I go up it never gets above 5 degrees and everything is so frozen up and cold I can't do any adjustments until I get it back downstate. I'll tighten up the limiter straps today before I leave. I know tightening them changes things, I'm just not knowledgeable enough to know exactly what it does.

If anyone has any suggestions on how many threads to have showing on the front shocks and the front skid shock as well as how much pressure to have on the rear air shock I would greatly appreciate it. 5'11" and 220lbs with gear. Aggressive rider, about 99% trail. Thanks for any suggestions/help
 
Just got back from another great run with the bride. She is on her 14 LTX DX, and I was on my 15 STX DX. Her sled seems so easy to get to rail and stay flat, the STXDX needs fine tuning. I'm 6'3" and go 250 dressed. I'll need to count the threads on the front shocks for you, but I don't have to mess with them at all now that i have the tuning where i like it. The rear is set showing 14 threads on the center skid shock, 120lbs in the rear shock when I'm out for a quick blast, 125-130 lbs when I'm carrying the linq gas can and 135 lbs when i have the gas can and saddle bags when on tour. With ea of these setting I just bottom out on the very largest bumps. Limiter strap is in the middles holes. I love the transfer I get at these settings. I can pull the skis 2-3" in the air out of every corner, or under hard throttle on the straight aways. It took 3 seasons to know where it has to be for ea different load, but now it's as close to perfect as i can get it for my riding style.

I was on a trip last weekend with a buddy that swears by his 850 etec. He looked at me and said "Once you caught on to how to tune it, it's surprising fast!"
I said yes, and it burns ZERO mix oil!

They all seem to eat the snow flap

I'll count the front shock threads in the am.
 
It’s surprising how much the center spring helps hold up the whole back end. Going from the stock 110 spring to the 160# let me drop 10-15psi I the rear float which improved the ride AND bottom resistance. It does add a bit of a ski lift, but it’s very predictable IMO. I think the reason Yamaha went with 110 spring is to kill any ski lift , which fights what a uncoupled skid is suppose to do.

It’s really a “pick your poison” with the 141 skid. Lighter ski pressure and a better ride at the cost of inside ski lift OR better handling at the cost of heavy steering and harsher ride
 
28 threads showing counting from the bottom of the shock.

Good luck with it. Once you get it dailed in it is a blast to ride.
 
My Stx dx I have set up
Front shocks 27 threads showing
Front skid shock 13-14
Rear air shock 150 psi
This is rideing 2 up with my boy.
Apox combined weight with gear 290 lbs
Rocks pretty good like this
To go one up I would let some pressure off the rear air shock (135) otherwise would ride real harsh
If it bites to hard in the corners set up like this I can just add a little throttle to take a little bite off the front and not lift inside ski, can pretty much see those corners coming
Rides pretty plush for me like this.
Rode it like I stole it yesterday!!!!
If I put more preload on front skid shock it pushes bad 2 up and is like a rocking and strangely is harder to stear?
Wonder if your front shocks have to much preload forcing rear down making it eat the snow flap?
 
Should also add if riding one up I am also carrying 15 ish pounds of gear and extra fuel
 
It’s surprising how much the center spring helps hold up the whole back end. Going from the stock 110 spring to the 160# let me drop 10-15psi I the rear float which improved the ride AND bottom resistance. It does add a bit of a ski lift, but it’s very predictable IMO. I think the reason Yamaha went with 110 spring is to kill any ski lift , which fights what a uncoupled skid is suppose to do.

It’s really a “pick your poison” with the 141 skid. Lighter ski pressure and a better ride at the cost of inside ski lift OR better handling at the cost of heavy steering and harsher ride

I just changed to the heavier stingray spring ... How many threads do you have showing on the centre spring now and how much psi do you have in your rear shock?
 


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