2024 Sidewider LTX GT EPS

[KnappAttack]

Wow Mike, I never would have trusted that secondary enough to remove the snap ring! Guys must understand that in doing so they have to pay close attention for clearance issues if they intend on cutting the backside of the hub down as well.

Thats true Steve, you have to pay attention to any hitting of the movable sheave at full shift no matter what you do. Typically with proper position of the stubshaft, I don't have to machine secondaries. I only remember two machines I have had to machine the secondaries on, and when doing so, you cant take too much off without the movable running over the top of the shims behind the clutch if trying to utilize shims as the shims are larger than the shaft on the secondary clutch, machining over 2.5 mm can run into this and the shims will need a smaller diameter so the shim itself doesn't interfere with the movable's travel to full shift. I'll run a machine up to full shift on the stand and check the back of the movable and the frame to see if contact is present, because there can be contact when trying to move in for offset.

But as far as the snap ring being there or not, it makes no difference if you machine the secondary or remove the snap ring to get the offset as long as you are bolting down solid and removing the float, if you want float, then I'd leave the snap ring in place, but the clutch will hold the shaft as the bolt tightens down against it and the shaft cant move at all. No big deal.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Is there any reason my stub shaft could be sucked in from factory? That could be some of what I am missing. I will do my research on no float.

 

[fatchance]

Is there any reason my stub shaft could be sucked in from factory? That could be some of what I am missing. I will do my research on no float.

Absolutely. I had to pull my stub shaft out to press it into the housing before the sled ever hit the snow. Bearing wasn't seated in the housing or on the shoulder of the stub shaft

 

[Simplespeed]

Hello TY,

I finally pulled the trigger and now have a 2024 Sidewinder LTX GT EPS in the trailer. I am fortunate to have a brother in-law that has a sidewinder already, so he has been helping me with what to look for. We already did the ROV delete. I have a Precision drive shaft saver on the way. Installed the belly pan protector under the clutches. We pulled the exhaust bolts and nickel never seized them and replaced the 2 hard to get to ones with hex head SS bolts. I have to add the STM tunnel protectors yet and 4th wheel kit. When we got it home, he knew to look at the charge tubes thankfully. 0 miles and the tube on the brake side was cracking already. I have been looking into the different stud options for the trail. Still looking at the Megabite studs 1.450. Minimum 144. Who has been running them and how many miles. How are they holding up as far as bending, breaking, pull throughs. Looking at doubles 4 per every other bar. And if that is not enough add the other singles to the open bars. Anyways I am happy to finally be on the sidewinder side. I still like my Viper, but the sidewinder starts so much better and a ton more power. CAN'T wait to get some miles on he

 

[Simplespeed]

Mega Bite 1.450 will work fine and they won’t break, bend or pull thur if you understand why and when that kind of damage most likely occurs. If your spinning and the track catches then its only a matter of time before you will notice damage. First thing that shows damage is lugs, then stud pull threw , then ripped tracks.
So how do we eliminate track spin on ice or hard pack? Loose snow has no effect.. Couple of ways you address this issue. First is length of stud? You want to run a lenght that penetrates and stops track spin.. Second you want to run a number that stops track spin but does not include any more than really needed. For a 1 1/4” Rip Saw track on pro-Cross chassis you can run 1.575 using angled double aluminum plates in a Four/Two/Two pattern which will use 128 studs and on a stock machine will get you traction your looking for. Take it step further and sharpen the Mega Bite studs and it hooks better on ice. Now if your tuned you might want to go Four/Three/Three pattern and see how you like it before going to 192 or more.. The best part of this set up is you can add as you see needed.. When using 1.575 just run your track snug, no sag and not any tighter than needed… I recommend using tall Aluminum nuts when using angled doubles and tighten them tight. Over 1000 miles testing this set up and it works and track still looks new… On my set up I used angled single plates on the two/ two pattern and doubles on the four pattern. All studs on inside band of track with as many scatch line as possible… They do not hit anything underneath and I have not added any tunnel protectors. You will want to tune your suspension settings to make use of this proper traction to suit your riding style…

 

[74Nitro]

Wow Mike, I never would have trusted that secondary enough to remove the snap ring! Guys must understand that in doing so they have to pay close attention for clearance issues if they intend on cutting the backside of the hub down. As well as like you say zero float, since any end play transfers over to the chaincase.

The endplay doesn't transfer to the chaincase. There is a large bump on the shaft that the bearing butts up against.
The doos were like this before changing to the permanently mounted clutch on shaft in 2008

 

[74Nitro]

I've run many without the snap ring, in fact running the secondary against the bearing shows less wear and abuse than running it on the snap ring alone with no washer in front of it. That said, you better know how to eliminate the factory float and figure a different way for belt deflection. The secondary need bolted down solid against the bearing race so the shaft doesnt move. I shim in-between the sheaves like the old Cat reverse cam secondaries for belt deflection adjustments.

I had one in here once that kept the factory float and belt deflection, and the shaft moved in the bearing after some miles. So I dont recommend removing the snap ring and allowing it to float anymore to get proper offset.

I do this also, it's a great setup.

 

[74Nitro]

Is there any reason my stub shaft could be sucked in from factory? That could be some of what I am missing. I will do my research on no float.

The stub shaft can only move about .5-1mm max before the inner bearing takes over.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Anyone run this stud pattern?

 

[Simplespeed]

I think Trailleader is running that exact pattern and he has his boost hooking hard with it…

 

[rb2001srx700]

I think Trailleader is running that exact pattern and he has his boost hooking hard with it…

I heard the winder likes an balanced stud pattern. If it repeats the same amount of times it should be balanced and not throw a code right.

 

[Simplespeed]

I heard the winder likes an balanced stud pattern. If it repeats the same amount of times it should be balanced and not throw a code right.

All high horsepower sleds should run a balanced stud pattern. In a 48 band track your pattern is balanced using 128 studs as well as you can when using 4 -2 - 2 pattern . It will hook just find for trail riding and keep spinning to a minimum which equates to long lasting… I used 4 - 1 -1 and going to 4 -2-2 as that is enough and not too many for my style of riding and my suspension set up… Balance is fine either way. No worries on any codes if your riding in acceptable conditions…