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KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2004
- Messages
- 4,809
- Location
- Welch MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Wow Mike, I never would have trusted that secondary enough to remove the snap ring! Guys must understand that in doing so they have to pay close attention for clearance issues if they intend on cutting the backside of the hub down as well.
Thats true Steve, you have to pay attention to any hitting of the movable sheave at full shift no matter what you do. Typically with proper position of the stubshaft, I don't have to machine secondaries. I only remember two machines I have had to machine the secondaries on, and when doing so, you cant take too much off without the movable running over the top of the shims behind the clutch if trying to utilize shims as the shims are larger than the shaft on the secondary clutch, machining over 2.5 mm can run into this and the shims will need a smaller diameter so the shim itself doesn't interfere with the movable's travel to full shift. I'll run a machine up to full shift on the stand and check the back of the movable and the frame to see if contact is present, because there can be contact when trying to move in for offset.
But as far as the snap ring being there or not, it makes no difference if you machine the secondary or remove the snap ring to get the offset as long as you are bolting down solid and removing the float, if you want float, then I'd leave the snap ring in place, but the clutch will hold the shaft as the bolt tightens down against it and the shaft cant move at all. No big deal.