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3 gallons or less in your tank!!


If you guys are putting bigger pumps in or are running bigger pumps you should really consider running the pump directly off battery. I have no affiliation with this eBay guy but this link is what I’m referring to. You can certainly make your own. I ordered from this guy and it takes awhile to get this. They are made to order.


I got this from member DMC. THIS issue was talked about a few years ago by a electrician.
So this is just plug and play? Uses the signal from the stock relay to power up the heavy duty relay which pulls power direct from battery.
Cool, I like it.
 
So this is just plug and play? Uses the signal from the stock relay to power up the heavy duty relay which pulls power direct from battery.
Cool, I like it.
Got one a few days ago.. Cheaper to build your own, but i got this exact one.. takes a few days

Plug and play completely
 
Both my sled and a fiends did this after we upgraded the fuel pumps. They would actually stall too when they got to that point. We both added the return to the fuel sender itself like pefi does, no charge. Found both pumps were bad. Replaced them and both sleds run perfectly now.
 
Just received my fuel pump relay and it’s a nice piece. I don’t have a big tune and still using stock pump but did fuel return and this in hopes pump will last longer and more reliability.
 
Last year I ran the stock pump with a 1/4 return to top of pump. No issues at all with a 1/4" return line. Just make sure the hose is not pinched at all.
With a high volume fuel pump I am running the 5/16" return line this year. Dont know of the larger diameter hose will make much difference since the return fitting is still a 1/4" .
Time will tell.
We ride on Monday after the storm rolls in.
 
Just wanted to share a little bit of info that may save some from chasing their tail later this winter. I advise if you have installed a larger fuel pump, mainly the gss342 G3(generation 3) pump to get the proper test fittings from yamaha and test your fuel pressure at the rail. I recently installed a brand new 342 g3 pump on my 22 winder with stock regulator. I tested the fuel pressure to make sure everything was in check. Sled had 50-52psi at rail with key on sled off. Started sled and pressure rose an additional 1-2 psi. I assumed faulty regulator. I had another brand new yamaha regulator here so I swapped it out. No change. I then installed a brand new hurricane regulator with no change. I then removed my 5/16 return line from tank and ran it into a bucket with no change. This was to confirm no blockages at basket of tank. I then removed the line from the regulator and ran a short new piece of line to bucket with no change. I checked the pressure on my 20 winder to make sure gauge was not messed up as I knew for a fact that sled always had 43.5-44psi at rail with older generation big pump and stock regulator. it tested perfectly at 43.5 psi. I then removed the rail and regulator from the 20 and installed on 22 to rule out any problem with the rail even though this seemed very unlikely as its a pretty basic part. Still had 50-52psi. I then began to do some reading on regulators and efi systems as I had no idea why the regulator wasnt doing its job and maintaining pressure at 43.5psi like its supposed to. Its possible for regulators to become too small when fuel pumps are upgraded and it doesnt have the ability to maintain its target pressure. This still left the question as to why my 20 with big pump has perfect pressure and my 22 is nearly 10psi too high. Well at some point along the line walbro upgraded the pumps to the G3 model. One of the upgrades was increasing the pumps output from 86psi to 110psi. So basically the extra 24 psi is over the threshold of what the tiny regulators can handle. I had previously mentioned that precision used 5/16 line in their pump upgrade kit but I was wrong, they use 3/8. They use a regulator with large output ports and big tank fittings. The hose is 3/8 with 3/8 size an fitting on one end with a quick connector factory style fitting on the other. After speaking with them these large return hose and fittings/regulator is to insure the regulator can handle the job of the big pump and maintain 43.5psi of pressure. I had noticed that just lighly compressing my 5/16 line caused the pressure to increase rapidly on my gauge and I thought there wasnt much room for error. A bend a little too tight could cause a dramatic increase in pressure. I was able to force the pressure at the rail down to spec using td adjustable regulator but it caused the fuel pressure to flutter rapidly on the gauge. I had to turn the td regulator down to 36-37psi on the regulator to get 43.5psi at the rail. I thought the gauge maybe off on the regulator but I tried it on my 20 winder and 44psi on regulator showed 44psi at rail and no weird fluttering. I also tried another brand new gss342g3 pump I had here to make sure I didnt get a defective pump on steroids and same results. Now just because you purchased a new pump recently does not mean its a G3 pump as even though these were upgraded a while back there are 1000's of older generations hanging around at different vendors and distributors and it will likely take a while before its nothing but G3's available. Checking your fuel pressure at the rail is a good idea if youve upgraded pumps as running at higher psi may cause some drivability/rich conditions more noticed at idle and low speeds similiar to what the old red return elbow caused for some people back in the early sidewinder days. I am going to confirm my findings some more by installing a G3 pump in my 2020 and rechecking fuel pressure. Closed loop may mask this problem by pulling fuel away but I believe it was mentioned on here that closed loop is not active at idle and very low speeds. I do not know this for certain though. Just something to keep in mind.
 
Just wanted to share a little bit of info that may save some from chasing their tail later this winter. I advise if you have installed a larger fuel pump, mainly the gss342 G3(generation 3) pump to get the proper test fittings from yamaha and test your fuel pressure at the rail. I recently installed a brand new 342 g3 pump on my 22 winder with stock regulator. I tested the fuel pressure to make sure everything was in check. Sled had 50-52psi at rail with key on sled off. Started sled and pressure rose an additional 1-2 psi. I assumed faulty regulator. I had another brand new yamaha regulator here so I swapped it out. No change. I then installed a brand new hurricane regulator with no change. I then removed my 5/16 return line from tank and ran it into a bucket with no change. This was to confirm no blockages at basket of tank. I then removed the line from the regulator and ran a short new piece of line to bucket with no change. I checked the pressure on my 20 winder to make sure gauge was not messed up as I knew for a fact that sled always had 43.5-44psi at rail with older generation big pump and stock regulator. it tested perfectly at 43.5 psi. I then removed the rail and regulator from the 20 and installed on 22 to rule out any problem with the rail even though this seemed very unlikely as its a pretty basic part. Still had 50-52psi. I then began to do some reading on regulators and efi systems as I had no idea why the regulator wasnt doing its job and maintaining pressure at 43.5psi like its supposed to. Its possible for regulators to become too small when fuel pumps are upgraded and it doesnt have the ability to maintain its target pressure. This still left the question as to why my 20 with big pump has perfect pressure and my 22 is nearly 10psi too high. Well at some point along the line walbro upgraded the pumps to the G3 model. One of the upgrades was increasing the pumps output from 86psi to 110psi. So basically the extra 24 psi is over the threshold of what the tiny regulators can handle. I had previously mentioned that precision used 5/16 line in their pump upgrade kit but I was wrong, they use 3/8. They use a regulator with large output ports and big tank fittings. The hose is 3/8 with 3/8 size an fitting on one end with a quick connector factory style fitting on the other. After speaking with them these large return hose and fittings/regulator is to insure the regulator can handle the job of the big pump and maintain 43.5psi of pressure. I had noticed that just lighly compressing my 5/16 line caused the pressure to increase rapidly on my gauge and I thought there wasnt much room for error. A bend a little too tight could cause a dramatic increase in pressure. I was able to force the pressure at the rail down to spec using td adjustable regulator but it caused the fuel pressure to flutter rapidly on the gauge. I had to turn the td regulator down to 36-37psi on the regulator to get 43.5psi at the rail. I thought the gauge maybe off on the regulator but I tried it on my 20 winder and 44psi on regulator showed 44psi at rail and no weird fluttering. I also tried another brand new gss342g3 pump I had here to make sure I didnt get a defective pump on steroids and same results. Now just because you purchased a new pump recently does not mean its a G3 pump as even though these were upgraded a while back there are 1000's of older generations hanging around at different vendors and distributors and it will likely take a while before its nothing but G3's available. Checking your fuel pressure at the rail is a good idea if youve upgraded pumps as running at higher psi may cause some drivability/rich conditions more noticed at idle and low speeds similiar to what the old red return elbow caused for some people back in the early sidewinder days. I am going to confirm my findings some more by installing a G3 pump in my 2020 and rechecking fuel pressure. Closed loop may mask this problem by pulling fuel away but I believe it was mentioned on here that closed loop is not active at idle and very low speeds. I do not know this for certain though. Just something to keep in mind.
Another thought I had. You said precision is using 5/16” return line . What about the elbow fitting that goes back into the tank is that also bigger on their kit? Guys doing this return line mod using a bigger return line may not make a difference if the stock tank elbow is to small
 
Another thought I had. You said precision is using 5/16” return line . What about the elbow fitting that goes back into the tank is that also bigger on their kit? Guys doing this return line mod using a bigger return line may not make a difference if the stock tank elbow is to small
3/8” return with bigger fittings then stock. Regulator has 3/8 (6AN) fitting on outlet and tank has matching 3/8 quick connect.
You are correct, probably not a world of difference on stock setup with 5/16 as flow will be limited by outlet size of regulator and elbow on tank.
 
Just checked a new PEFI kit I'm going to install today. Agree with justinator. 6AN (3/8") outlet on regulator with 3/8" return line into 3/8" fitting on pump housing. Great post justinator. Important stuff IMO.
 
Just checked a new PEFI kit I'm going to install today. Agree with justinator. 6AN (3/8") outlet on regulator with 3/8" return line into 3/8" fitting on pump housing. Great post justinator. Important stuff IMO.
Thanks. Im glad I decided to verify psi to satisfy my own brain. May or may not of caused some runnability issues and had me back tracking all the mods. Prefer to get issues like this resolved before season is in full bloom.
 
Used same size as stock fuel line to drilled out red elbow, 1/4 inch. But was a bear to get that fuel injection line on. Used Hurricane elbow at tank. Anything to worry about?
 


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