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3 gallons or less in your tank!!

Great write up jonlafon1!

I did this exact mod two years ago and would have loved to have had your postings for guidance.
When I did the bypass mod I also installed Hurricanes fuel pump upgrade kit and it includes the pump and a new regulator.
Prior to the fuel return and fuel pump upgrade my sled one time had momentarily fallen on its face in a drag race like it had starved for fuel.
Since the upgrades I have never had a fuel supply issue even at lower fuel levels.
 

sideshowBob said:
Great write up jonlafon1!

I did this exact mod two years ago and would have loved to have had your postings for guidance.
When I did the bypass mod I also installed Hurricanes fuel pump upgrade kit and it includes the pump and a new regulator.
Prior to the fuel return and fuel pump upgrade my sled one time had momentarily fallen on its face in a drag race like it had starved for fuel.
Since the upgrades I have never had a fuel supply issue even at lower fuel levels.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
i found kimpex has an aluminum elbow and gromett that allows you to add a short hose that will go right into banana where pump is. got at Canadian tire for those in Canada or should be able to get through Gamma
 

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IMO, the biggest advantage to doing this is to make SURE there is a constant-pressure uninterrupted flow of gas to fuel rail and injectors. As the thread title states, the stock fuel system is marginal (likely inadequate) to do this especially when you are down to 3 gallons or less in your tank. The issue gets worse with tuned sleds (higher demand for fuel). The way to keep the constant flow is to make sure the fuel pump suction side never sees any air (from gas sloshing around or aerating or gas level so low that air is being pulled into basket). IMO, changing the system so fuel returns into the basket to keep it full is key to solving the problem. Even when tank gets low on gas, the basket will stay full (until you're literally out of gas).
Another part of the problem (again, especially with tuned sleds with higher fuel demand) can be dirty fuel injectors (especially high mileage sleds). So far this summer, I have done major engine repairs on 3 TCats with Stage 3 280HP tunes. In each case, I sent the injectors out for professional cleaning, In all 3 cases, one or more of the injectors did not flow correctly (down 5-12%) due to contamination/debris/dirt. The stock system has a strainer attached to the suction side of the pump. It is about a 50 micron strainer. According to the injector cleaning business, any particle larger than about 25 micron can become lodged in inlet side of injector even though it will most likely not be an issue for the pump itself. Smaller than that will pass through. When I repaired these 3 TCats (and my own), I installed a complete fuel system upgrade (such as presented in this thread), a new larger strainer at pump, and also installed a 10 micron in-line fuel filter between the pump and the fuel rail. The filter has a cleanable stainless steel mesh-type element. Now I know for sure these sleds have a fuel system that is up to the task, the injectors will not become dirty.
 
One last thought missed .. When removing the main fuel line form top assembly their is tab you push to release the fuel line.. WHEN reinserting the fuel line be sure to push it in ALL the way.. I know when I pushed it on it was like okay its on and then I'm like that doesn't seem right.. It went in even further..
fuel mod 17_LI.jpg
 
GodSpeedSWE said:
Exactly the same way I did mine with one small exception. I made a stainless plug for the standard hole in the tank.

One question about the fuel pump upgrade does this not require a bespoke flash? Or maybe pressure is not affected just flow? What's the common upgrade Walbro 255?
Click to expand...
Turbo dynamics tunes are fuel pump specific, you need to let them know your running a big pump. Not sure if tunes differ very much in the way they run but my TD bundle on my 2020 are labeled as “upgraded pump” in the flasher.
I believe there is no different tunes for fuel pumps with hurricane.
 
From what I know, stock fuel pump pressure should be 43 psi key on engine not running. I think the idea behind larger fuel pumps is more margin of safety with capability for more volume, faster recovery if any air gets into line, better ability to maintain line pressure with more demand.
As far as I know, these systems are designed to 43 psi with key on engine not running. Then they add 1 psi of fuel pressure for each pound of boost. So basically, it's a linear relationship and the fuel rail should always have 43 psi plus however many pounds of boost there is. As long as that is happening, fuel delivery should be correct, ASSUMING the map in the ECU is correct (and injectors are clean and dirty) to start with. The ECU will vary/adjust the pulse width (ie ON time) of the injector (and ignition timing) according to inputs from the sensors (coolant temp, RPM, MAP signal, throttle position, etc). Those that use adjustable regulators and set them higher than 43 psi key on engine not running are really just richening AFR (by virtue of the fact the injectors will spray higher volume at any given pulse width because the fuel pressure is higher). Unless there is O2 feedback, the ECU will not know the fuel base pressure is higher so it will command the injector pulse width as if pressure is at stock base pressure (43 psi key on engine not running), hence more fuel at any given throttle position.
At higher HP tune levels, there gets to be less and less margin between what the stock fuel system can safely deliver before it's maxed out. My understanding is with current stock components, stock fuel pumps are maxed out at about -5 degF on tunes that are at or above 17 psi of boost. Not sure where the injector capacity stands at that same level. Dialing up the fuel pressure does deliver more fuel but the tune has to be created at the higher pressure or the engine will be very rich AFR.
 
I did this mod tonight. Not bad overall. I bought a kit of single ear hose clamps but I couldn't get the one on at the fuel rail side. It's tight in there and the clamp is super tight on the line once over the fitting. I'll just use a hose clamp there. I managed to break the clip on the main fuel line when I removed it. Good news is you can get them at the auto parts store for a few bucks. In case anyone else does the same, here is a link: https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-line-clip/p/dorman-fuel-line-clip-800-023/604824_0_0
The only other thing to add is the hole is just a bit larger than 1/2". I used a step drill bit at first, but you can't go too far or you'll hit the fuel line. I just used regular bits to finish and ran the 1/2" round and round to get it to the right size as I didn't have bits larger. That was time consuming but it worked.
One more.. When figuring out where to drill the hole, you can use the rubber grommet upside down and you'll see it is about perfect where it can lay flat but close to touching the plastic edges towards the center of the pump. You can then mark and drill with confidence.
 
1/2" hole is a tight fit.. I needed to put a little lube on the grommet when pushing through.. But i feel this keeps it nice and snug..
 
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