35/39 Dalton Helix

dsimonRX1

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I believe there are a couple of guys running these. I have one, but no snow. Have you guys put some additional miles on with this helix? How do you like it and what else do you have modified?

TD Turboforce, Ecotrail reflash, TD/Dalton weights, Helix shimmed, Ulmer rollers and 192 studs in a LTX-SE
 
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Ulmer weights and spring, cat rollers, stock with no flash or exhaust, 1.75 track, will have results hopefully by end of weekend...

On a rail bed on hard pack snow best of 110mph speedo.
 
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Very interested as well.....

First thing of interest is the coil bind, It sounds like there is no deeper pocket on these helixs(yet) to help with the potential coil bind at full shift. So we either need to shim helix, which IMO is more of a band-aid then proper fix, OR we need to GEAR higher so we are not getting into max OD.

As for angles....I have already seen slippage(stock setup) at top speed in the secondary. So I am closely waiting to see results on a reverse angle which is steeper on the top end, which IMO will actually NOT grab the belt as hard, and would slip even more(all else being unchanged). Now maybe the new daltons with this reverse angle combo will change things as the dalton curve act much heavier all the way thru, but that remains to be seen.

I would like to see more pressure on top end for less slippage, so im hoping enough guys get testing angles so we can come to a consensus on a good overall helix for trail sleds with flash.

Dan
 
Very interested as well.....

First thing of interest is the coil bind, It sounds like there is no deeper pocket on these helixs(yet) to help with the potential coil bind at full shift. So we either need to shim helix, which IMO is more of a band-aid then proper fix, OR we need to GEAR higher so we are not getting into max OD.

As for angles....I have already seen slippage(stock setup) at top speed in the secondary. So I am closely waiting to see results on a reverse angle which is steeper on the top end, which IMO will actually NOT grab the belt as hard, and would slip even more(all else being unchanged). Now maybe the new daltons with this reverse angle combo will change things as the dalton curve act much heavier all the way thru, but that remains to be seen.

I would like to see more pressure on top end for less slippage, so im hoping enough guys get testing angles so we can come to a consensus on a good overall helix for trail sleds with flash.

Dan
I'm seeing slippage on top end of primary, secondary is nice and clean, 3-3 stock helix with no signs of coil bind. So I'm thinking the 35/39 will help the primary.
 
I'm seeing slippage on top end of primary, secondary is nice and clean, 3-3 stock helix with no signs of coil bind. So I'm thinking the 35/39 will help the primary.
Slippage at top speed means not enough backpressure IMO.....this is why I am not sold on steeper finish angle helix, as rpms will drop which means less tension on belt.

I would love to test with one, and then a standard one back to back, my guess is there will be more heat on one/both clutches due to slippage, and belt will run hotter too.

Dan
 
Slippage at top speed means not enough backpressure IMO.....this is why I am not sold on steeper finish angle helix, as rpms will drop which means less tension on belt.

I would love to test with one, and then a standard one back to back, my guess is there will be more heat on one/both clutches due to slippage, and belt will run hotter too.

Dan
My thinking is that with the primary slipping and the secondary not slipping that there is too much pressure in the secondary...but I may be completely off track.
 
My thinking is that with the primary slipping and the secondary not slipping that there is too much pressure in the secondary...but I may be completely off track.
ANY slipping is due to belt being too loose basically, so not enough backpressure.

When into deep overdrive the belt is ultra LOW in secondary, and its VERY hard to grip when so low, the PRIMARY wont slip as easily at top speed(as secondary) since belt is HIGH in OD top of primary.

Only way to reduce slip is tighter belt, and to get tighter belt you need MORE backpressure, not less....I can see the reverse angle running top end on ICE easier, as the sled rolls easily on ice and less resistance rolling.

testing is only way to know, and all the rest of the clutching recipe comes into play as well....
 
ANY slipping is due to belt being too loose basically, so not enough backpressure.

When into deep overdrive the belt is ultra LOW in secondary, and its VERY hard to grip when so low, the PRIMARY wont slip as easily at top speed(as secondary) since belt is HIGH in OD top of primary.

Only way to reduce slip is tighter belt, and to get tighter belt you need MORE backpressure, not less....I can see the reverse angle running top end on ICE easier, as the sled rolls easily on ice and less resistance rolling.

testing is only way to know, and all the rest of the clutching recipe comes into play as well....
Hmmm I'm not showing signs of slippage in the secondary, only the primary, so i think if you apply more pressure in the secondary the primary will only slip more. But again I'm not an expert and I may be completely off track.
 
Hmmm I'm not showing signs of slippage in the secondary, only the primary, so i think if you apply more pressure in the secondary the primary will only slip more. But again I'm not an expert and I may be completely off track.
If you see slipping in primary, my guess is its lower on faces? Hard to say without seeing.

I know after alot of running this one here, the only place I saw rubber was bottom of secondary.

But certainly if you run certain speeds you will see slipping anywhere along the sheaves, but its all from same thing, either a too hard belt, or not enough backpressure.
 
Hmmm I'm not showing signs of slippage in the secondary, only the primary, so i think if you apply more pressure in the secondary the primary will only slip more. But again I'm not an expert and I may be completely off track.
Slipping in the primary is because of the 35 start. Not a fan of reverse angle helix but that's just me. I don't think the 39 finish is the problem.
 
Hmmm I'm not showing signs of slippage in the secondary, only the primary, so i think if you apply more pressure in the secondary the primary will only slip more. But again I'm not an expert and I may be completely off track.
Slipping in the primary is because of the 35 start. Not a fan of reverse angle helix but that's just me. I don't think the 39 finish is the problem.
 
Tried and tested the reverse angle helix January 14th.

Haven't had it out since because of no snow and pouring rain killed everything in central Wisconsin.

For trail, the 3-3 worked well, but if you have soft or fresh snow, go off-trail, you will want to bump the twist to 6-1 minimum.

The 35 angle reacts the same way the stock helix does and my sled didn't slip the belt at all on take off or playing off-trail. The 39 finish angle works great and pulls hard....even just going down the trail takes a lot less throttle to make it pull hard.

If I was slipping bad on take off, I wouldn't be able to pull the sled straight up and cat-walk.

I am also machined for coil-bind, so please take that into account..

Waiting for more people to post with stock machines as I am Stage 4 EVO currently, EVO bullet exhaust and Thunder Products clutching....that is it. 128mph GPS is my best right now.

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I'm glad it works for you but not the way to go for me. Tested with aftermarket helix and spring day and night over stock spring. My stock spring has all the paint wore off and and Coil binds terrible. I ran 129 withstock gear a month ago but have since geared up and that's probably why mine slips with stock 35.
 
Seems like a lot of mixed reviews.

I'm at 6-1 no shim and cat rollers. I love the way it acts! Clean clutches and no heat. I was just about 100 percent happy and I snapped a belt. But since then I've put another 700 miles on and it works great. I was drag racing my buddy wot and no belt issue. Pulling like a freight train.
 


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