7153 miles. Drive shaft bearing failure

[jonlafon1]

I lost drive shaft bearing today on AM ride. Not far from cabin. Not really surprised as I failed to service it and or replace. I gambled on making through the season and lost. Still a great year besides this setback. Was likely my last ride of season. Thinking I caught it before major damage. When touching brake it had a good vibration on the handle. Very noticeable, so if you go to use brake and feel a vibration when squeezing STOP DRIVING SLED SOON. How I found my issue was I stopped to check clutch temps and noticed bearing race and one ball bearing in belly pan under secondary. I knew what is was soon as I saw it. Not really that mad actually as I failed to service it as much as should have been. I was really hammering the piss out of it and checking clutch temps. Pretty sure I got it dialed in damn good now. Orange TP secondary wrapped at 6/3. Time for a new track and studs and maybe a new drive shaft? Happy trails . My season is over.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

I lost drive shaft bearing today on AM ride. Not far from cabin. Not really surprised as I failed to service it and or replace. I gambled on making through the season and lost. Still a great year besides this setback. Was likely my last ride of season. Thinking I caught it before major damage. When touching brake it had a good vibration on the handle. Very noticeable, so if you go to use brake and feel a vibration when squeezing STOP DRIVING SLED SOON. How I found my issue was I stopped to check clutch temps and noticed bearing race and one ball bearing in belly pan under secondary. I knew what is was soon as I saw it. Not really that mad actually as I failed to service it as much as should have been. I was really hammering the piss out of it and checking clutch temps. Pretty sure I got it dialed in damn good now. Orange TP secondary wrapped at 6/3. Time for a new track and studs and maybe a new drive shaft? Happy trails . My season is over.

At MS17 I cranked my old BO to 80 and it was a world of difference this week. Same as 90 on the new ones. Clutches cold every time I checked and you could tell it was locked in and rocking and rolling. A little more tweaking on alignment and I think I have this thing figured out now.

 

[Goose1200]

Sorry to here about your drive shaft bearing jonlafon1. But good catch before to much damage hopefully. How did the TP orange secondary spring perform for you at 6/3? How is the clutch temps? I have been playing with my TP orange spring also with the 8dn belt and dalton 38 helix. I started with 3/3 but had some belt squeal on take off so then I bumped it up to 6/1 but still have a minor squeal at take off but the clutch temps have come up also. Just wondering if I should keep going up to were you are at.

Thanks, jason

 

[SAB1]

My buddy had similar last weekend. Bearing was fine but driveshaft was toast. All under warranty

 

[jonlafon1]

Sorry to here about your drive shaft bearing jonlafon1. But good catch before to much damage hopefully. How did the TP orange secondary spring perform for you at 6/3? How is the clutch temps? I have been playing with my TP orange spring also with the 8dn belt and dalton 38 helix. I started with 3/3 but had some belt squeal on take off so then I bumped it up to 6/1 but still have a minor squeal at take off but the clutch temps have come up also. Just wondering if I should keep going up to were you are at.

Thanks, jason

A lot of variables with clutching. Running 137 skid with around 240 studs. TD powertrail. HH weights straight STM 38 helix. Running just over 68 grams on HH. Yellow green yellow Yamaha primary spring. THE Tp orange was really good at 6/2 but I like 6/3 best. You have to look at secondary sheaves for black marks/ and clutch temps. It’s after 100 mph when the slip happens/ and or on the punch. I started at 3/3 > slipped like greased lightening and just kept winding tighter based on clutch marks and temps. So not saying you have to go 6/3 as this is TIGHT and a lot of wrap but I will say I was not convinced initially that much wrap was needed but it’s just depended on temps and slip marks. And of coarse clutching set up and sled/ studs/skid length.

HH >HEEL .9 grams slug bottomed out first then 3.3 gram slug after in heel. Make sure HOLE is empty as both these slugs on top of each other stick out a bit. So 4.2 in heel.

Middle is .9 grams aluminum bolt.

Tip most important on a HH- is 4.6 or 5.0 grams. Steel bolt 7/16 head >4.2 grams and 1 or two brass washers at .4 grams. Reason I say one or two brass washers at .4 grams is based on spring wrap. More wrap you might need two washers. Otherwise one is good with above set up.
I have run this set up on HH weights for almost all of the 7200 miles. Great belt life and roller longevity. 8950 RPM and holds up top. Pulls like a freight train UP over 100.

 

[Goose1200]

I will have to take a look at my clutches and see if I can see any black marks on the sheaves. I am also running HH but with the TP orange primary and I'm set up with 1/4" and 3/4" Allen in heel, 3/8 steel with 1 thick washer in middle and there 1/2" steel bolt with 1 thick washer in the tip. It comes in just above 73g. Rpm's are close hits 9000 on the punch and settles down to 8700, 8800 But today was pretty soft heavy snow . Also have 137" track and 144 studs inside and out. But this was with the max spool 17. I think I will keep winding that spring and see what happens.
I thought I had my clutches all figured out this year. Started with 8jp and the straight 38 helix with the TP orange secondary spring at 3/2 and it was the coolest my clutches have ever been but with only 200 miles on the belt I guess it didn't like the hard acceleration of the MS17. Belt snaped in half
So now it's time to figure out the 8dn belt

Thanks, Jason