I need to hook into a wire with alternating current, where do I look at on a 04 RX1?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
There should be 3 white wires coming out of the magneto and into the rectifier in the nose. You'll have to remove the cup holder to get at them. There is no mention in the manual about the relationship between them, I wouldn't try hooking A/C into any combination of those wires without scoping them first and verifying that there is an inverted pair. Unsynchronized A/C power can damage your equipment, and use of unsync can damage your rectifier.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
rx warrior,
I always want to keep learning. What do you need ac voltage for??
I always want to keep learning. What do you need ac voltage for??
ac voltage
We are installing a M-10 with the ACE system in the sled and need to hook-up to ac for the system components. It is out of a Polaris sled.
We are installing a M-10 with the ACE system in the sled and need to hook-up to ac for the system components. It is out of a Polaris sled.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You might want to be careful with that. The A/C frequency and voltage will be different on RX1 than on a Polaris.
Look over the components of the ACE, I would guess that one of them is a rectifier. If there is a rectifier, just remove it and hook the system into DC... hell, you can even LEAVE the rectifier and hook it to DC. If there IS no rectifier, then you must hook to AC.
Look over the components of the ACE, I would guess that one of them is a rectifier. If there is a rectifier, just remove it and hook the system into DC... hell, you can even LEAVE the rectifier and hook it to DC. If there IS no rectifier, then you must hook to AC.
The system has a rectifier and a regulator. How do you suggest that I hook it up?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Get rid of the rectifier and check the regulator. What you can do to check the regulator is simple;
Hook up 2 car batteries in SERIES - hook the (-) of one to the (+) of the other. The remaining non-connected terminals will give you *24* volts. *BRIEFLY* hook up the voltage regulator to the 24 volts and measure the voltage output. If it outputs close to 12v (between 9 and 15), then get rid of the regulator. If it measures 9 volts or less, keep the regulator. Use a ratshak voltmetert ($15) to check the voltage - I'm sure you already have one.
Note: You will NOT damage the VR by hooling it to higher voltage. Normal LOW POWER LOW CURRENT VR's for sensitive electronics are safe to *38* volts, just the higher the voltage, the more heat builds up. Without adequete cooling, you can heat burn one with PROLONGED connection to high voltage - like your car engine, its ok to start for a few seconds with the radiator drained, but don't try driving to the bank like that.
Hook up 2 car batteries in SERIES - hook the (-) of one to the (+) of the other. The remaining non-connected terminals will give you *24* volts. *BRIEFLY* hook up the voltage regulator to the 24 volts and measure the voltage output. If it outputs close to 12v (between 9 and 15), then get rid of the regulator. If it measures 9 volts or less, keep the regulator. Use a ratshak voltmetert ($15) to check the voltage - I'm sure you already have one.
Note: You will NOT damage the VR by hooling it to higher voltage. Normal LOW POWER LOW CURRENT VR's for sensitive electronics are safe to *38* volts, just the higher the voltage, the more heat builds up. Without adequete cooling, you can heat burn one with PROLONGED connection to high voltage - like your car engine, its ok to start for a few seconds with the radiator drained, but don't try driving to the bank like that.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Prolly a good idea to use an inline fuse in those test wires, just my $.02
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
LOL, that goes without saying 
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