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Add me to the broken driveshaft bolt club!

Gone Blue

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Howell, Michigan
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Snowmobile
08' Nytro RTX 40th Anniversary - Stretched
So I am finishing up a complete skid rebuild, replacing all bearings and oil seals in the chaincase and drive line, and will install a new 1" 3/8" x 144" Cobra track. While taking apart the chaincase, I found the broken driveshaft bolt. The last thing I need to do is remove the broken bolt from the driveshaft. Using a blind bearing puller to remove the chaincase upper inner bearing was easy with a little heat around the bearing on the chaincase. I used plumbers putty and the driveshaft spacer to remove the outer driveshaft bearing in the case cover. It worked great but took time while keep having to add more putty.

QUESTION: Is there a different torque spec for the new higher strength driveshaft bolt? I believe the torque spec for this bolt according to my Yamaha service manual is 20 ft/lbs (28Nm)?

Thanks, GB
 

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The bolt breaks because the driveshaft was too short and didn't slide into the collar far enough. Yamaha made the correct fix with a longer driveshaft and collar to go with it on later models. I would think the torque spec will be the same.
 
I put a fair number of k’s on my ‘13 Nytro with no issues in terms of that lower bolt, Yammy’s update seemed to do the trick.
 
The bolt breaks because the driveshaft was too short and didn't slide into the collar far enough. Yamaha made the correct fix with a longer driveshaft and collar to go with it on later models. I would think the torque spec will be the same.
Thanks Nitro. I read some threads on here about the length change with the driveshaft. I found a XTX driveshaft for sale cheap I am thinking of looking at. Want to see if there is a length difference and it would save time drilling out my broken bolt?
I put a fair number of k’s on my ‘13 Nytro with no issues in terms of that lower bolt, Yammy’s update seemed to do the trick.
Anyone have an idea when the longer driveshaft change was made?
 
I know the ‘13-‘14 Nytro models had 2.86 drivers, but not sure if the updated driveshaft happened at that point or earlier. @74Nitro has much more experience servicing this chassis than I do.
 
It may have been 2010. Look at the online parts diagrams and see when the part numbers change. The collar that goes on the end is also needed.
I think the shaft was also a little bigger diameter which means the plastic sprockets are different.
The 2.86 drivers were only used on the 13 and 14 RTX if I remember correctly.
 
It may have been 2010. Look at the online parts diagrams and see when the part numbers change. The collar that goes on the end is also needed.
I think the shaft was also a little bigger diameter which means the plastic sprockets are different.
The 2.86 drivers were only used on the 13 and 14 RTX if I remember correctly.
Thanks guys, dont worry about it now. I was only looking for other drive shaft options if I had trouble removing the broken bolt. I used some cheap HF bolt extractors today and the bolt easily came out. So I am good. Thanks to all for your help!
 

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The new bolt will likely break again at some point, but it's not a real big deal as the machine still works even with broken bolt.
 
The new bolt will likely break again at some point, but it's not a real big deal as the machine still works even with broken bolt.
Yeah sounds like it. My broken bolt was riding around in the chain case cover for a while. It lasted some 12,000 miles so if I get that or more with higher strength bolt, I can live with that.
 
Yeah sounds like it. My broken bolt was riding around in the chain case cover for a while. It lasted some 12,000 miles so if I get that or more with higher strength bolt, I can live with that.
my 2010 did this, I think 2010 was the year they added a clip to old the bolt in. it still bored a hole in my chaincase cover, I JB Welded it. it drilled a perfectly circular hole before I noticed it. Never lost a drop of oil, but was full of filings, I cleaned it out good, ran it and changed oil again
 
I have a question. Why would Yamaha put a sealed bearing in the cover if it's inside and oil bath?
 
Because there is a lot of metal filings always coming off the gear teeth and chain links.
My 08' was long tracked by its previous owner. So someone has been the chaincase before? So I am not confident what bearings in the chaincase should have seals and which ones dont? That lower bearing in my chaincase cover had only one seal on the inboard side. It is open on the backside. So that is what I put back in it. G.B.
 
My 08' was long tracked by its previous owner. So someone has been the chaincase before? So I am not confident what bearings in the chaincase should have seals and which ones dont? That lower bearing in my chaincase cover had only one seal on the inboard side. It is open on the backside. So that is what I put back in it. G.B.
That's factory.
 
If it was me I'd pull the seals on all of the bearings. Doesn't make sense to me to have one side sealed etc.
 


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