meklke
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I’m interested on the consistency of the answers here.
Suspension adjustments are a give and take. One characteristic might get better and in response something else gets worse. Beside that we sometime call the same suspension part a different name. Add to the mix that we have 3 different length tracks, different shock and spring packages, different skis, studs, body weight and we all like a little different ride, can make things very confusing. So with that, I will be the whipping boy and explain what little I have experienced with the Viper adjustments.
Front shocks springs – lighter spring rate will give a softer ride but easier to bottom out, does spring/shock pressure change the cornering?
Front skid spring/shock – lighter spring has softer ride and put more weight on the skis.
Rear torsion springs (not the shock/spring)- effects hard/soft ride, does it effect steering?
Front skid straps - the tighter the straps the less weight transfer you get to the back of the sled. Tighter strap puts more weight on the skis and less on the track. Less weight on the track may produce spinning.
Rear transfer blocks – may increase or decrease ski lift but what else does it do. Puts weight on the springs sooner?
Sr Viper RTX, spring over shock, 2 studs per paddle, stock skis, 8" bergstrom triples, 240 lbs.
Suspension adjustments are a give and take. One characteristic might get better and in response something else gets worse. Beside that we sometime call the same suspension part a different name. Add to the mix that we have 3 different length tracks, different shock and spring packages, different skis, studs, body weight and we all like a little different ride, can make things very confusing. So with that, I will be the whipping boy and explain what little I have experienced with the Viper adjustments.
Front shocks springs – lighter spring rate will give a softer ride but easier to bottom out, does spring/shock pressure change the cornering?
Front skid spring/shock – lighter spring has softer ride and put more weight on the skis.
Rear torsion springs (not the shock/spring)- effects hard/soft ride, does it effect steering?
Front skid straps - the tighter the straps the less weight transfer you get to the back of the sled. Tighter strap puts more weight on the skis and less on the track. Less weight on the track may produce spinning.
Rear transfer blocks – may increase or decrease ski lift but what else does it do. Puts weight on the springs sooner?
Sr Viper RTX, spring over shock, 2 studs per paddle, stock skis, 8" bergstrom triples, 240 lbs.


YamahaTim
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meklke said:I’m interested on the consistency of the answers here.
Suspension adjustments are a give and take. One characteristic might get better and in response something else gets worse. Beside that we sometime call the same suspension part a different name. Add to the mix that we have 3 different length tracks, different shock and spring packages, different skis, studs, body weight and we all like a little different ride, can make things very confusing. So with that, I will be the whipping boy and explain what little I have experienced with the Viper adjustments.
Front shocks springs – lighter spring rate will give a softer ride but easier to bottom out, does spring/shock pressure change the cornering?
Front skid spring/shock – lighter spring has softer ride and put more weight on the skis.
Rear springs (not the shock/spring)- effects hard/soft ride, does it effect steering?
Front skid straps - the tighter the straps the less weight transfer you get to the back of the sled. Tighter strap puts more weight on the skis and less on the track. Less weight on the track may produce spinning.
Rear transfer blocks – may increase or decrease ski lift but what else does it do. Puts weight on the springs sooner?
Sr Viper RTX, spring over shock, 2 studs per paddle, stock skis, 8" bergstrom triples, 240 lbs.
Changing you front shocks will change your ride height which will change how the skid reacts.
Yes softer front skid shock will make more ski pressure.
The torsion controls the ride height of the sled. In the rear. This is not intended to harden or soften your rear shock.
If you tighten your straps that would lift the front of the skid. Making more ski pressure, but maybe some more traction. If you lifted the limiter straps, then put the sled on flat ground like a garage floor. The front of the skid will be off of the ground. Then when you sit on it it should sink until the track is flat and the rear suspension begins to couple. If you get off and it lifts back up that's the torsion spring doing that. The shocks really don't do anything until the track starts to couple. Once it couples then the skid will react to bumps and stuff. Or maybe the launch.


YamahaTim
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When changing the front you should also change the rear. You are by theory suppose to sit on the seat and measure the distance from the floor to the bumper. Then sit on it fully dressed and it's suppose to drop a certain distance. So until you get that distance you would change things to get the proper measurement. And there should be a specific ride height on the front. Once they are both right that should be optimal setting. But to me that is not always true. I was told that the SE version are stiff because it's made to be pounded on. Not just easy trail riding that's what the LTX is for. So if you think the SE is to stiff that's how they made it. So it can take a beating. I have had it in the air pretty good and I'm 250 dressed and have not found the bottom. And that's what it's made for. I would like it to be softer in some situations. That's why I would like the chance to adjust with different conditions. So clickers would be nice! But for now I either have to live with it or revolve them. No worries though cause it's fine.
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I have a LTX 137 inch amd i cant get any sag, 175 lbs. I bought this model because it was suppose to be softer. I am going to take out the back shock and see if it will sag when i get on it. If not I will get softer springs. If it does then a revalve of the shock or maybe both. What do you guys think.


YamahaTim
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Attacker said:I have a LTX 137 inch amd i cant get any sag, 175 lbs. I bought this model because it was suppose to be softer. I am going to take out the back shock and see if it will sag when i get on it. If not I will get softer springs. If it does then a revalve of the shock or maybe both. What do you guys think.
I thought the LTX was real plush. Granted I'm 75 pounds heavier than you. But from what I have heard the LTX is way softer than the SE. Are torsion springs at softest setting?
rbell14
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shocks
According to the spec sheet I thought the rear shock on the SE vs. the base were the same.
According to the spec sheet I thought the rear shock on the SE vs. the base were the same.


YamahaTim
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Re: shocks
They are the same shock, but different valving inside the shock.
rbell14 said:According to the spec sheet I thought the rear shock on the SE vs. the base were the same.
They are the same shock, but different valving inside the shock.
Any of you that have complained about no sag or too stiff a suspension noticed a change after some miles on the machine? We have almost 900 miles on our xf 7000 Snopro and it has now softened up. There is at least 2" of sag when I hop on it now. They was none when it was new and for quite a while. I never had too much of an issue with the smaller bumps but it was pretty harsh in the big bumps. I expected this with a Snopro (SE for the Viper guys) and planned to do some shock work to improve it without getting it as soft as the base models. With the softening up after the miles, I may just leave it as is unless I get antsy and need to do something in the off season. Anyway, my point is...this sled definately has loosened up and become more compliant, though it took a little while.


Re: shocks
Two totally different shocks.
Mine did soften up but still could be softer but then again this weekend with 3fters everywhere I was loving my stiff suspension.
YamahaTim said:rbell14 said:According to the spec sheet I thought the rear shock on the SE vs. the base were the same.
They are the same shock, but different valving inside the shock.
Two totally different shocks.
Mine did soften up but still could be softer but then again this weekend with 3fters everywhere I was loving my stiff suspension.


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drumz11 said:Any of you that have complained about no sag or too stiff a suspension noticed a change after some miles on the machine? We have almost 900 miles on our xf 7000 Snopro and it has now softened up. There is at least 2" of sag when I hop on it now. They was none when it was new and for quite a while. I never had too much of an issue with the smaller bumps but it was pretty harsh in the big bumps. I expected this with a Snopro (SE for the Viper guys) and planned to do some shock work to improve it without getting it as soft as the base models. With the softening up after the miles, I may just leave it as is unless I get antsy and need to do something in the off season. Anyway, my point is...this sled definately has loosened up and become more compliant, though it took a little while.
Same here. I have around 900 miles too and the rear torsion spring has become a lot more supple. Even though the owners manual says for my weight I should be on the high setting I am still on medium though. I'm sure the same thing could be said for the clutch springs. Any piece of metal will soften up with cycles. The people who engineer these machines probably take that into account, after all that's what engineers do. Sometimes patience is a good thing.
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Yes they are on the softest setting. I now have about 1300 miles on and no change.
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I am going to pull the shock tonight and see if i can get some sag in the suspension. If I do then I can revalve the shock if I dont then a softer spring is next. What do you guys think.
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Just pulled the shock off, I got about 3 inches of sag with no shock. The guy I talked to about a revalve said that I wouldnt get a good reading that way because the shock and torsion springs work together. He is going to take a look at the shock tomorrow and we will go from there.


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Attacker said:Just pulled the shock off, I got about 3 inches of sag with no shock. The guy I talked to about a revalve said that I wouldnt get a good reading that way because the shock and torsion springs work together. He is going to take a look at the shock tomorrow and we will go from there.
Maybe even a little thinner oil in the shock could work. Mine is getting better as the miles get put on. I might wait til the end of the season. Then get it fixed if it doesn't get any better.
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That might be all it needs, I will bring it up with the shock guy tomorrow. Thanks
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