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Advice on repairing undercarriage damage (and adding skid plate)

steveg_nh

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Messages
560
Location
Southern NH
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2007 Attak
So while most of the stuff I'm fixing up on my new to me 07 Attak has been minor stuff I do have one thing to address that isn't that easy.

The previous owner, after I found the damage when I got home (my fault I should have looked underneath when buying) told me he caught a buried rock or tree stump that just caught the undercarriage. It bent the rear of the engine compartment back and slightly bent the heat exchanger. It doesn't leak and isn't cracked. This happened 3 years ago and it's never been a problem for him. Plenty of room too from the track. No risk of anything touching.

There is a gap between the plastic engine cover and the metal due to the misshapen metal so I do wonder if snow can get in there and if so if that's not ideal. I assume it's not.

As I was reading up on all the FAQs I was reading about installing a skid plate to prevent this exact situation. Of course this could have been much worse. Seems like the previous owner should have installed one.

Anyway from what I can tell this would cover all of this problem area up but with the twisted nature of the metal I'm wondering if it will lay flat enough or if I'll have a problem installing one.

Also wondering for any safe ways to possibly get this bent back a bit or if I should just leave it alone. It's pushed back and upward in one corner.

I'm open to any and all ideas and suggestions. Here's a few pics from different angles to help you see what I'm talking about. Thanks everyone.
 

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Very common issue. The plastic access panel is too forgiving. When it flexes, it exposes that rear edge for snags. I offer a heavy duty aluminum plate to replace that stock plastic access panel.

Beings the damage is already done, I'd suggest getting one of the full plastic yamaha skid plates. It will cover up the gap and prevent future snags. I have several good used ones in stock now.
 
She got smoked pretty hard, got lucky imo. Don't think reworking it back into shape is an option, but if everything is sound and no loose or sheared rivets, then what Travis has suggested a Yamaha plastic skid plate is the ticket. The skid plate mounts on that damaged edge so you may need to straighten or level it back a bit so the holes line up
If you get a new one, the riv-nuts are too short that come with it, if used, maybe Travis has longer riv-nuts or well nuts to go with it.
 
So the plastic skid plates are different from this one, correct? SMA-8FA34-00-BK

I read that a lot of folks, when installing the part I mentioned, used well nuts instead of the included rivnuts. Sounds more solid. But I'm not clear on if we are talking about the same plates.

As for existing rivets, a couple are loose, which I will drill out and replace. I have an air hydraulic riveter so I can get them nice and tight. If you look at the heat exchanger, you can barely see the bend, so yes, very lucky. But I bought it, so I move forward. :) Just trying to figure out he best option. All the holes still line up on the plastic cover plate for the oil drain/engine, so should I replace that with Travis' metal cover plate and the plastic skid plate, or just the plate I reference above? Not sure what's best.
 
If it was me I would buy Travis's Aluminum skid plate to replace the plastic one so it reinforces that area. You can't afford another direct hit. Then I would get the Plastic skid plate to cover it all up. The skid plate won't cover the very back where it is bent but it will protect stuff from getting stuck in the gap. If it was me I would mount a strip flat rubber to the underneath side of the skid plate to close off the gap in the back and keep snow from getting in. Use the rubber Well nuts. It's not even worth trying the Rivnuts !
 
So why not the aluminum plate from Travis AND a metal skid plate? Extra protection over plastic no? Not really worried about a few bucks one way or another.
 
I have used longer rivnuts on 4 different Apex's.. don't care for well nuts. They can turn or tear some. McMaster sells rivnuts as well..
An engineer here figured out these for our Apex's.. I buy these Rivnut packs. Made a homemade riv nut tool from a utube how to. https://www.mcmaster.com/#94020A387

On the skid plates I drilled the holes a bit wider as they can get fussy putting them back on for oil changes etc. I aslo use SS hex head bolts for ease and to add extra length on top to catch the threads while re installing.
 
The plastic is forgiving metal will bend and be no good after one good impact. I would not bother with metal plate as it will be covered by the plastic skid plate. I would however look into the Skinz flotation plate it will protect everything and it is nice when in the powder. I have the Yamaha skid plate and it does its job but my buddy got the Skinz float plate and when we play in fresh snow he always comments on how much he likes it. Its also way bigger then the Yamaha one. Throw away the Rivnuts and get well nuts when you go to change the oil you will be glad you did the Rivnuts strip out and just spin when you try to take the plate off to drain the oil. if you wind up with an exposed gap in the back cut a thin sheet od aluminum to fill the gap and rivet it in place to seal it up use a little silicone.
 
The plastic is forgiving metal will bend and be no good after one good impact. I would not bother with metal plate as it will be covered by the plastic skid plate. I would however look into the Skinz flotation plate it will protect everything and it is nice when in the powder. I have the Yamaha skid plate and it does its job but my buddy got the Skinz float plate and when we play in fresh snow he always comments on how much he likes it. Its also way bigger then the Yamaha one. Throw away the Rivnuts and get well nuts when you go to change the oil you will be glad you did the Rivnuts strip out and just spin when you try to take the plate off to drain the oil. if you wind up with an exposed gap in the back cut a thin sheet od aluminum to fill the gap and rivet it in place to seal it up use a little silicone.

I agree on using the plastic plate.. but disagree on the rivnuts... I've never had them strip after many off and on's during maintenance. and this is on 3 machines that I own with Yami's skid plates...But i know how to put them on.. any utube video will show this.
 
Interesting. I'd think a plastic plate would just crack and not do much...Is that a Yamaha OEM part? I need to try to find it to take a look.
 
Very common issue. The plastic access panel is too forgiving. When it flexes, it exposes that rear edge for snags. I offer a heavy duty aluminum plate to replace that stock plastic access panel.

Beings the damage is already done, I'd suggest getting one of the full plastic yamaha skid plates. It will cover up the gap and prevent future snags. I have several good used ones in stock now.

Travis, I just looked at your oil cover plate. Does it rivet in? Meaning, for an oil change, how easy is it to get to the engine drain bolt. That picture you have on the website showing the torn metal behind the opening, mines not that bad, thank goodness.
 
Interesting. I'd think a plastic plate would just crack and not do much...Is that a Yamaha OEM part? I need to try to find it to take a look.

Yami part. The plate is made of a high quality ballistic type plastic. Delrin might be the brand name for this stuff. I bought one off ebay cheap. Painted it with a quality Rustoleum plastic paint. The paint held well.
 
Thanks. I'll try to find it. I think I like the idea of the metal bottom plate on motor to help cover up the mess I have, and the plastic skid plate over it all.
 
Thanks. I'll try to find it. I think I like the idea of the metal bottom plate on motor to help cover up the mess I have, and the plastic skid plate over it all.

The Yamaha plastic skid plate is heavy gauge material, 1/4"- 5/16" thick, very durable, not sure an aluminum plate is available unless custom made. Wouldn't hesitate to use this. The oil change access cover is up to you, would leave it as is, just along for the ride now.
 

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I think I just had an ah-ha moment. The skid plate I mentioned above, IS the same one you guys are talking about...it's plastic. I thought the OEM one was metal....
 


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