4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Well...now that the season is in full bloom. I have every thing in the rear maxxed still bottoming...bad :evil: need stiffer spring, going to go with something different in the damper/spring category.
Oh yeah and I'm 245 Lb's with gear.
Oh yeah and I'm 245 Lb's with gear.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You probably don't need a stiffer spring, just a stiffer shock. That would make the real difference.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
LB,
It's wierd :? First the thing was way too stiff and now it bottoms hard :? I've had the dealer check everything out and they said I'm over the weight limit for the stock suspension. I don't think a stiffer shock is going to carry my weight like a stiffer spring would :? My guess is the shock is too far into it's compression stroke already because the spring is not carrying it's share of the weight properly - too weak. This is evident when I hit the first big mogul and WHAM! ouch :evil: But a stiffer shock along with the right spring, calibrated correctly should do the trick.
Oh yeah, and I tried 5mm shims - it bottomed on every sharp mogul I hit at a speed over 15 Mph.
Anyway, I'm trying to decide which route to take: Ohlins or custom Kayaba? Is the extra $240.00 for the Ohlins justifiable? I still need studs, and skid plate, and hand guards, and a Stage 2 clutch kit, and filters, and... :lol:
It's wierd :? First the thing was way too stiff and now it bottoms hard :? I've had the dealer check everything out and they said I'm over the weight limit for the stock suspension. I don't think a stiffer shock is going to carry my weight like a stiffer spring would :? My guess is the shock is too far into it's compression stroke already because the spring is not carrying it's share of the weight properly - too weak. This is evident when I hit the first big mogul and WHAM! ouch :evil: But a stiffer shock along with the right spring, calibrated correctly should do the trick.
Oh yeah, and I tried 5mm shims - it bottomed on every sharp mogul I hit at a speed over 15 Mph.
Anyway, I'm trying to decide which route to take: Ohlins or custom Kayaba? Is the extra $240.00 for the Ohlins justifiable? I still need studs, and skid plate, and hand guards, and a Stage 2 clutch kit, and filters, and... :lol:
randman516
Veteran
Iam also 240#. I went with ohlins shocks, orderd them to my weight. It is much easer to adjust them. They come pre set so you just have to fine tune them. 5mm washer, rear-tighten 4 turns on preload from stock with 2 clicks (L), center-loosened 2 turns on preload, strap is 1 inch of thread, broke my control rod was at stock seting, fronts-stock preload with 5 clicks (H),longer links, FRA set to hard
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Wow I cant believe how different 2 sleds are. I am 265 probably 280 with gear on and my suspension is still way to stiff. I never bottom out and I am set on Medium FRA and rear shock set to 3rd step from softest. I could go much harder but it is just starting to get better. When I got it I would have to hang on or get bucked off the seat it was so hard. I may try LB's setup to see if its better though. The FRA when I got it was on hard I should have messed with spring more.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
xpolarisguy - Have you checked the bushings in the relay rods and in the rear shock mounting eyes? These six bushings wear out and your ride gets worse. I'm with LB on changing to a harder shock keeping the stock spring. I'll replace stock rear shock with a harder rebuildable Engans shock keeping the stock spring as Engans is delivered without the spring.
1stormchaser
Newbie
I had my rear shocks replaced with Viper shocks and revalved to my weight(just over 200lb fully dressed) and riding style-seemed to have worked great for me. Soft on top of stroke and stiffer as you get into the big bumps.
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Help
LB, I need your help. I am ready to throw my suspension in the street and buy an M10. I don't do any wrenching, but I have to do something with my sled. All of my mods are in my signature. I have spent a great deal of money, now I think I need to spend alittle time. Any help you can give me would be much appreciated. I have read your posts, but because I am so green, I need to start at the beginning. Also, I do enjoy your posts on this site. Let me get started. My FRA is set to medium. My straps have 1" showing. I rode this weekend over 25 miles of studder bumps. I feel that the seat is kicking me very hard in the butt. My sled is a vast improvement over last year, but far from perfect. If you could start at the beginning that would help. I have read about preload on the shocks. I do not know what that means. I weigh 235 dressed. I like to ride aggressively. I only bottomed out once this weekend and it was a very good jolt to the back. I did not hear any crunching going on below. I think everything is OK. If you need any further information, please ask. Would an M10 make my machine ride better or do I need to curl up with this suspension to get it right.
LB, I need your help. I am ready to throw my suspension in the street and buy an M10. I don't do any wrenching, but I have to do something with my sled. All of my mods are in my signature. I have spent a great deal of money, now I think I need to spend alittle time. Any help you can give me would be much appreciated. I have read your posts, but because I am so green, I need to start at the beginning. Also, I do enjoy your posts on this site. Let me get started. My FRA is set to medium. My straps have 1" showing. I rode this weekend over 25 miles of studder bumps. I feel that the seat is kicking me very hard in the butt. My sled is a vast improvement over last year, but far from perfect. If you could start at the beginning that would help. I have read about preload on the shocks. I do not know what that means. I weigh 235 dressed. I like to ride aggressively. I only bottomed out once this weekend and it was a very good jolt to the back. I did not hear any crunching going on below. I think everything is OK. If you need any further information, please ask. Would an M10 make my machine ride better or do I need to curl up with this suspension to get it right.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You really do need to mess with it a bit before it will be right.
As for preload, the *load* on a spring is nothing more than its compression. Preload is how much load is on the spring when the shock is fully extended. When I say to put the preload on minimum, I mean just to loosen the spring to minimum. For the main spring at the back, it is a graduated ramp, at the front, they are threaded.
As for preload, the *load* on a spring is nothing more than its compression. Preload is how much load is on the spring when the shock is fully extended. When I say to put the preload on minimum, I mean just to loosen the spring to minimum. For the main spring at the back, it is a graduated ramp, at the front, they are threaded.
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
I want to start with the rear suspension. I can move the FRA to stiff, that is not a problem. What should I do with the rear shock as far as preload. How long will it take to make this adjustment. I want a softer ride over the studder bumps and not have the seat always kicking me in the butt.
Buckeye
Lifetime Member
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LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Boston RX1 said:
You should set the preload as low as you possibly can. The lower the preload, the softer it will be over the small bumps, BUT, the less of the big bumps it will take.
I have my main spring preload on lowest setting - works great, but if you are heavier than me, you may want it up a notch or two.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: Stabilizer Bar
I didn't know either until my OEM 11 mm bar came in and it wouldn't fit in my hacksaw/welder modified original links, the hole was definitely too small. Looks like you may have to get a completely new set - I really doubt that the new bar will be breaking, the ends are BIG - as far around as a DIME.
Buckeye said:
I didn't know either until my OEM 11 mm bar came in and it wouldn't fit in my hacksaw/welder modified original links, the hole was definitely too small. Looks like you may have to get a completely new set - I really doubt that the new bar will be breaking, the ends are BIG - as far around as a DIME.
snowsdog
Extreme
New RX1 owner 03
Wow,
Lot of good info. I will get started on adjusting mine this weekend. Sounds like I need to buy som eparts for upgrade on the front as well
Wow,
Lot of good info. I will get started on adjusting mine this weekend. Sounds like I need to buy som eparts for upgrade on the front as well
