An interesting measurement.

[grubf]

I have an 18 129 LE 50 anniversary edition. Like many on this site I have been experimenting with skis. I never used the original Tuners at all as they are simply too narrow to even bother with. I have run AC for years and have a bunch of AC skis. So last season I tried many different combinations to try to make it turn reliably. Dual runners did not work that well. I ended up using 8 inch singles and pulled the limiter down 1 hole and tightened the front shock springs. I left the rear suspension front spring alone as adding more tension there would have lightened up the front which would have been going the wrong way. Preload on rear torsions to the max setting even though I only weigh 200 lbs. This forced the front end down a little too. It worked OK but was still not completely trustworthy on the tight trails in NW Wisc where I like to ride. Also that one little hole on the limiter strap made a huge difference on the transfer. I have followed the RockerDan posts religiously as he has the exact same sled. It seems he likes losts of weight transfer so he has his limiter all the way out. I like the original setting of the second hole because it seems like a happy medium. I like the playfulness of a little transfer. ANYWAY. after much research I ordered up a set of Mohawks. I know the 'Doo skis could be had cheaper. I also know that a lot of guys went the Curve route. But I don't want the heavy steering of the Curve that many report. So I changed out my AC skis for the Mohawks last night. Just for giggles I got out my caliper and measured the distance from the centerline of the ski bolt to the bottom of the carbide on the original Tuners, the AC ski and the new Mohawks. The tuners measured almost exactly 3 inches. The AC skis measured just north of 2.9 inches with 1500 miles on them. I attribute the difference to wear and I would guess they would measure just about exactly the same as the Tuners if the AC carbides were new. Then I measured the new Mohawks. All put together they are 3.5 inches from centerline to snow. 1/2 inch difference. I have never seen a thread that mentions this. Or if it even matters. But I would have to think it would help. I do not have a Curve ski or a Pilot ski to measure. The Mohawks are also a 'rocker' ski where both the AC and Tuners are a flat bottom ski. Again I do not have a Curve or a 'Doo ski so I don't know if they are flat or rocker style. I have put all my suspension settings back to stock and will go out and do some riding to see where I am at. Do you guys think that 1/2 inch is going to be a difference maker or is this just a dumb post? Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[KnappAttack]

.5" not going to be too big a deal on a trail sled, but it changes it somewhat. Really not worth talking about.

FWIW, Doo skis are rocker skis, most of them anyway. The single Keel R or Race ski has a bit more flat than the 5.7 or 6.9, but all use the same carbide. Rockers will steer easier effort wise. Flat skis get tough to steer unless they have dual carbides on them, and then they tend to push or float more making them easier to turn at that point.

 

[grubf]

Many have said that the 'Doo skis either 5.3 or 6.9 configuration just 'flat out work' on the ProCross chassis. So am I to conclude that a 'rocker' style ski will do more for all around steering than any configuration of a flat bottomed ski on the Sidewinder?

 

[jonlafon1]

Tried SLP SLT’s. Went to Cat skis and after using them since 2012 on the pro cross chassis (3diferent sleds.) I feel they are a sleeper ski on the winder. You HAVE to shim them and use a slim Jim carbide. The key is shimming so the carbide wears evenly front to back. Major pain to install with a shim on the back side of the ski rubber. I know most are not using the cat ski and surely any of them are great depending on rider opinion and style. But don’t overlook them when set up properly.

 

[Fleecer]

Tried SLP SLT’s. Went to Cat skis and after using them since 2012 on the pro cross chassis (3diferent sleds.) I feel they are a sleeper ski on the winder. You HAVE to shim them and use a slim Jim carbide. The key is shimming so the carbide wears evenly front to back. Major pain to install with a shim on the back side of the ski rubber. I know most are not using the cat ski and surely any of them are great depending on rider opinion and style. But don’t overlook them when set up properly.

X2

 

[grubf]

Have always shimmed the Cat skis. Like you say - hard to get them mounted means you are doing it right. Wear is even front to back. Tried same carbide set up they use on the Thundercat. Pushed. Tried semi-aggressive Snow Trackers. Pushed. Probably should have bought full aggressive. Tried all sorts of combinations but not SlimJims. I have so many skis and carbides laying around now I could just as well ad to the pile with a set of SlimJims. Thanks.

 

[KnappAttack]

Slim Jims always pushed on my Doos. Any dual carbide IS going to push. Carbide does not last very long on them either, but at least they don't dart.

Always go with Aggressive SnowTrackers! Semi aggressive are for the putt around kind of riders looking at the birds or scenery. Don't use shims with SnowTrackers either!

 

[grubf]

OK good to know. Thank you. Going out this afternoon to see how the Mohawks work.

 

[jonlafon1]

I will agree slightly about push on dual carbides. But this can be adjusted for and eliminated with suspension set up. One thing that’s not mentioned yet is steering effort. I will take the time to adjust for slight push but the steering effort of super aggressive carbide and skis is harder to adjust for imo. Not saying it can’t be done but they are a lot less forgiving and you always have darting at certain speeds. Most do not understand how to adjust suspensions for the ski,carbide,and rider weight they have on the machine they ride.

 

[Conedodger]

I think it's both interesting and quite relevant. I mean without even considering design changes of the ski, you changed set up by sticking the carbide/entire ski .500" further down into the snow giving rake to the rear skid etc etc. you drastically altered setup and ski pressure all else being equal. So if you did not adjust for it, you really don't even know what the ski itself did vs. setup change. You've got me curious about my XCS vs stockers now, but I never drove with the stockers either. I did tune in more transfer, but feel i went too far and plan to take some spring preload out of the front skid spring to give the skis a bit more bite. Right now I have to Lift to steer more than i would like to.

 

[grubf]

Just got done 50 miles groomed ditch. Stock suspension settings. With AC skis single 8 inch carbide at 80 mph I could row the skis right and left and they would not bite at all. With the Mohawks with 60 degree single carbide it will bite enough to go from one side of the trail to the other. It is not automatic but it does turn. I think I will crank the rear springs up to medium instead of the softest setting. That might be enough. Without question an improvement over the AC setup so far. This is with limiter strap on second hole. Stock setting.

 

[grubf]

There are many posts about shimming skis. I have shimmed skis for years on my assorted sleds and there is definitely a positive difference. Now I am wondering if anybody has ever experimented with shimming the carbides themselves? As in inserting a piece of flat stock between the ski and whatever your favorite carbide of choice might be. Like maybe a piece of 3/16 or 1/4. Thoughts?

 

[grubf]

Could it be that aftermarket carbides work better than stock carbides just because they have a thicker/deeper profile? Triple points, Shapers, even bird watching semi-agressive Snowtrackers measure deeper than stock.

 

[Doowithblue]

There are many posts about shimming skis. I have shimmed skis for years on my assorted sleds and there is definitely a positive difference. Now I am wondering if anybody has ever experimented with shimming the carbides themselves? As in inserting a piece of flat stock between the ski and whatever your favorite carbide of choice might be. Like maybe a piece of 3/16 or 1/4. Thoughts?

I did on my 17 with curves. Half of the runner is hidden inside the channel otherwise rendering the design useless. Worked awesome!

 

[jonlafon1]

There are many posts about shimming skis. I have shimmed skis for years on my assorted sleds and there is definitely a positive difference. Now I am wondering if anybody has ever experimented with shimming the carbides themselves? As in inserting a piece of flat stock between the ski and whatever your favorite carbide of choice might be. Like maybe a piece of 3/16 or 1/4. Thoughts?

Good idea! I may look into this on my next set of new Slim Jims. Have the skis shimmed right now so