Anyone who studded a 2010 Vector LTX..read

[chuckpp]

just added more total of 1 1/2

 

[DavidL]

The 08 Vector LTX that I bought had damage to the heat exchanger. Here is my version of the protectors I put on today. I used pressure treated lumber. The sled has 1 1/2" studs (track to tip), so I added 1" protectors. Hopefully this will prevent any more damage.

 

[steiner]

The 08 Vector LTX that I bought had damage to the heat exchanger. Here is my version of the protectors I put on today. I used pressure treated lumber. The sled has 1 1/2" studs (track to tip), so I added 1" protectors. Hopefully this will prevent any more damage.

Mix up some epoxy and fill the large holes. You will rip off every finger on the track that lines up with the protectors.

 

[DavidL]

Mix up some epoxy and fill the large holes. You will rip off every finger on the track that lines up with the protectors.

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll mix some epoxy and saw dust and fill them before I go out.

 

[CaptCaper]

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll mix some epoxy and saw dust and fill them before I go out.

Did you screw them up? I hope the vibration doesn't loosen them in time. I bolted mine at the back were you can get a lock nut on and one near the front. My protectors taper down in front of the cooler so a bolt was easy to install and when backing up the track has a gradual ramp to follow if needed. Good to taper but not farther then the upper wheels of course. There is some spots in the OEM's that can be used for a forward bolt.

 

[DavidL]

View attachment 106483

Did you screw them up? I hope the vibration doesn't loosen them in time. I bolted mine at the back were you can get a lock nut on and one near the front. My protectors taper down in front of the cooler so a bolt was easy to install and when backing up the track has a gradual ramp to follow if needed. Good to taper but not farther then the upper wheels of course. There is some spots in the OEM's that can be used for a forward bolt.

They are screwed in. If I make new ones and extend it pass the bend, I see where I could bolt them in front and in the rear of the exchanger. That's as far forward I could go to drill the whole without dropping the track. Since it's my wife's sled and she usually rides pretty easy, I may just leave them for now and keep an eye on them and then replace them in the Spring.

What hyfax did you use; it looks pretty wide?

 

[CaptCaper]

They are screwed in. If I make new ones and extend it pass the bend, I see where I could bolt them in front and in the rear of the exchanger. That's as far forward I could go to drill the whole without dropping the track. Since it's my wife's sled and she usually rides pretty easy, I may just leave them for now and keep an eye on them and then replace them in the Spring.

What hyfax did you use; it looks pretty wide?

I used some wide performance Yamaha OEM's off the Attak. Notice they are installed. I ran a thin flat aluminum strap bought at home depot down the channel on the hyfax were the rail would normally run. So I could have a smooth bottom against the track.
And yes you have to be careful not to go to far ahead to bolt or you'll have to drop the track. Or yet you can loosen the track and take the upper wheels down. They would be easy to put back as well.

 

[BallzDeep]

So I've seen a lot of year's mentioned here and can see that 1 1/2" inches seems prudent, however it's unclear to me...is that from the heat exchanger itself...or on top of what Yamaha gives you? For example I have a 2012 Vector LTX and there is already about 3/4" of protective rail there...do I add another 3/4" or an additional 1 1/2" to what's there? Thanks.

Sent from my E5823

 

[steiner]

So I've seen a lot of year's mentioned here and can see that 1 1/2" inches seems prudent, however it's unclear to me...is that from the heat exchanger itself...or on top of what Yamaha gives you? For example I have a 2012 Vector LTX and there is already about 3/4" of protective rail there...do I add another 3/4" or an additional 1 1/2" to what's there? Thanks.

Sent from my E5823

What kind of track and studs are you running? The standard Ripsaw with 1.325 studs will need 1.5" clearance

 

[BallzDeep]

What kind of track and studs are you running? The standard Ripsaw with 1.325 studs will need 1.5" clearance

Standard ripsaw with 1.325 studs. So given that, add to the existing (stock) protection to achieve 1.5" ? or are people saying that existing (stock) protection is inadequate by 1.5"?

Sent from my E5823

 

[thor452]

total protection needs to be 1.5 so make sure there is no flaws in the existing and add 3/4 inch.

 

[BallzDeep]

total protection needs to be 1.5 so make sure there is no flaws in the existing and add 3/4 inch.

Great, thanks! [emoji106]

Sent from my E5823

 

[MrSled]

The biggest issue is the part of the track that hits the protectors flexes and allows the studs to contact the exchanger that why everyone is adding extra material.

 

[steiner]

The biggest issue is the part of the track that hits the protectors flexes and allows the studs to contact the exchanger that why everyone is adding extra material.

Exactly. The RipsawI folds over like a wet noodle when meeting the protectors which allows the studs to contact the exchanger.

 

[indedarktoo]

Has anyone studded a newer sled? I just purchased a 2016 RS Vector, 129" track 0 miles, waiting for snow...

I'm going to stud it this weekend. I have 1.25" lugs, using 1.375" Woody's Gold Diggers. I bought 1" thick x 51" long tunnel protectors.

Does anyone have know what I need for tunnel protection? Should I run the full length of the tunnel?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!