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APEX Clutching

TurboTime

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Jan 3, 2006
Messages
604
Location
Cassopolis, MI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2009 Yanaha Nytro
I have been doing alot of investigation over the past couple of months on what truely is the best clutching system out there for the APEX.
Ulmar, Proline, Simmons, etc.

I would like to hear from some of you as to your likings and what you are running and/or tested.

Thanks,
 

The most important thing for you to understand is traction is the key with clutching. The Clutch packages increase the track hp and in order to reap the benefits of the extra power you must have good traction.

If I was you I'd look at either the Ulmer or The Simons because they offer Tunability. the problem with the Proline kit is it's not very user friendly when it comes to tuning it. the weights have rivets the need to be drill out. The Ulmer and Simons kits offer weights that you can adjust by simply adding heavier washer or screws to them.

I've used the proline setup and it works well. Some have claimed it to be 8 to 10 sled quicker then the others. It's just not true. It runs right with the Ulmer setup. I spent 2 weekends testing against a very good running sled. My sled ran identically against it with the Ulmer and the Proline kit.

The Stock clutching works very well. So much so that from a 40 to 50 mph roll you will not see much of a difference if your racing someone. I'm going to do so testing this winter to improve the mid range of My Ulmer setup. Allen has done some testing and has made some improvements. I hope to prove that this winter.

For a dead stop a a slow rolling start the clutched sled will jump out on a stocker badly
 
What he said........
 
Because sleds, rider weighs, set ups, conditions ect vary from one to the next I agree that screw in weights are far better than pounding in or drilling out rivits.

2nd, which vendor is the most accessable? Who answers your PMs faster?
It takes a while to understand clutching, so a helpful and easy to reach vendor can help you get that last little bit out of your install.
 
Thanks for the info Dirk. Much appreciated! I have been leaning towards the Ulmar Clutch Kit due to his reputation and his promptness with his customers.
If I am not going to turbo or SC, what stage do you think I need 1 / 2 / or 3.

I ride in the UP, MI....

Thanks,
 
why does the aftermarket kits make the apex so quick out of the hole? more helix? steeper or heavier weights? trying to figure out if i can use most of the stock clutching with minor "adjutments"
 
I really like my Ulmer stage 2. I was very surprised at the top end. I got 120 on Moosehead Lake and 120 at Wasekeag in Dexter Maine in trail mode with 96 carbide studs. I did take some tip weight out because it was overshifting out of the hole. I am only a 160 pounder.
 
I put on the 23T gear and got more power on launch, and normally asperated Apexs should not have a loss in top end because the clutching isnt shifting out as far as it can go anyway.

In fact my sled was faster top end, admittedly not sure why. Added SLP wear pads, 23T gear, pink spring and skidoo idler wheels all at the same time.
 
Tork - did you give up on the white spring?


Tork said:
I put on the 23T gear and got more power on launch, and normally asperated Apexs should not have a loss in top end because the clutching isnt shifting out as far as it can go anyway.

In fact my sled was faster top end, admittedly not sure why. Added SLP wear pads, 23T gear, pink spring and skidoo idler wheels all at the same time.
 
Forget the color hmmm

Have Apex switched to the Attak spring, better way for me to explain it.

Rode with 5 other Apexs and an Attak one of the last rides.
Mine was faster than all but Duanes supercharger, interestingly, mine was the SLOWEST of the bunch before the simple mods I listed above.
 
Read this http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=27446 I have a Proline kit and it is good, but you need 244 studs to make it work, which is way to many for trail riding. The Proline works great on the Attack, but so so on the Apex. 136 vs 121, hense more traction on the 136. Matt sells Proline, Ulmer and others and he has tested them all and says what he has works the best, which is mostly stock with a combination of a simple gearing change, Secondary changes and Primary machining. Read this Post. I'm going to try this for this season coming up. Matt seems to be a good guy to deal with also.
 


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