Wisconsin
Pro
My dad and I each have an '06 Apex. His is the ER and mine is the RTX. We each need some track work. He has a ripsaw that has many broken off lugs. I have an ice ripper that is in good shape, but missing one lug. It was that way when I bought the sled used and has been perfectly fine. All of the thread below it is fine.
I am contemplating just studding mine, or selling my track to him and getting a studded cobra. I don't really want to fork out the cash for a brand new cobra and all of those studs, but haven't found any used cobras with studs for sale.
I see that Laneo has some studded ripsaw tracks for sale. If I decide to simply stud my track, my father would need to buy a newer used, studded ripsaw. Would you be so kind as to look at Laneo's tracks for sale and let me know the best one for an apex? I know you're not supposed to stud in the middle b/c of the mono shock, but I am not sure what the perfect stud length, pattern, and # of studs are ideal for the ripsaw track.
We are average riders that cruise when we are with the girls and ride fast when we're with the boys. No professional drag racing, but we like to have enough traction and stopping power to ride on the edge. Thanks for your advice!
Tracksusa has the 9052H Cobra for $425 right now, but I'm not sure how much studs would cost. I don't know whether 144 is enough or if 192 is more appropriate. I have C&A Razors with 10" single carbides on the front. My dad has C&A XT's with 10" carbides on the front. We love how they handle.
I'm also not sure if round or square backers are better, all single, all double, or a mix are better, and whether flat or angle backers are better. I bought my previous sled (F7) from a guy who told me that he tried all angle backers and they had awesome hookup, but couldn't stop for crap. He went with half angled and half flat backers.
I see the woody's standard template that is recommended on their website, but again, I know you're not supposed to stud down the center of the track b/c of the mono shock rub. I also know that guys recommened different patterns to create more scratch lines.
Thank you very much for your time and advice!
I am contemplating just studding mine, or selling my track to him and getting a studded cobra. I don't really want to fork out the cash for a brand new cobra and all of those studs, but haven't found any used cobras with studs for sale.
I see that Laneo has some studded ripsaw tracks for sale. If I decide to simply stud my track, my father would need to buy a newer used, studded ripsaw. Would you be so kind as to look at Laneo's tracks for sale and let me know the best one for an apex? I know you're not supposed to stud in the middle b/c of the mono shock, but I am not sure what the perfect stud length, pattern, and # of studs are ideal for the ripsaw track.
We are average riders that cruise when we are with the girls and ride fast when we're with the boys. No professional drag racing, but we like to have enough traction and stopping power to ride on the edge. Thanks for your advice!
Tracksusa has the 9052H Cobra for $425 right now, but I'm not sure how much studs would cost. I don't know whether 144 is enough or if 192 is more appropriate. I have C&A Razors with 10" single carbides on the front. My dad has C&A XT's with 10" carbides on the front. We love how they handle.
I'm also not sure if round or square backers are better, all single, all double, or a mix are better, and whether flat or angle backers are better. I bought my previous sled (F7) from a guy who told me that he tried all angle backers and they had awesome hookup, but couldn't stop for crap. He went with half angled and half flat backers.
I see the woody's standard template that is recommended on their website, but again, I know you're not supposed to stud down the center of the track b/c of the mono shock rub. I also know that guys recommened different patterns to create more scratch lines.
Thank you very much for your time and advice!
Nick1945
TY 4 Stroke Master
If you looked at Tracks USA, go back and look at the Predator track. From what you mentioned, this would be a good track for you, and at a great price, less money than the Cobra, which leaves more money for the studs. 144 down the middle should be fine. Ulmer and Pioneer make a 25.00 dollar anti shock rub kit, for the mono shock, and it works, I have one,and I used the standard Woody's 144 pattern, 2 doubles 2 singles, down the middle. I bought the PREDATOR, and studded it the same way, for this upcoming season. Great track, fully clipped,all windows open.
Check it out. $ 339.00 1 1/4" Predator fully clipped, $20.00 shipping, I had it in 2 days from, Minn. to Mich., ask around, its a good track.
Check it out. $ 339.00 1 1/4" Predator fully clipped, $20.00 shipping, I had it in 2 days from, Minn. to Mich., ask around, its a good track.
schmeg
Expert
X2 on the Predator with 144 singles and doubles Woody's tractionmasters 1.175" with a 1" paddle, or 1.385 with a 1 1/4" paddle, your call.
kinger
VIP Member
Predator with 144 studs in double backers was one of the best tracks of all time for me. I now have a cobra and i can honestly tell you the predator is just as good as the cobra, your paying for flashy cobra skin marketing. I will give the braking to the cobra it stops like no other track I have had but compared to the predator its only a touch better.
Find some studs at the shadetree.com July sale I always get mine for around $1 each, cheap ones are fine if your a 2000-3000 miles rider, then check the tq on them yearly replace the few bent broken ones and your ready again for the next year. Should run you less then $400 total and you have one of the best tracks made. The predator I has was the 1.25" with 1.4" stainless studs from shadetree.
Good luck!
Find some studs at the shadetree.com July sale I always get mine for around $1 each, cheap ones are fine if your a 2000-3000 miles rider, then check the tq on them yearly replace the few bent broken ones and your ready again for the next year. Should run you less then $400 total and you have one of the best tracks made. The predator I has was the 1.25" with 1.4" stainless studs from shadetree.
Good luck!
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
To make it more interesting I would highly recommended going to a 128" while your at it. Better suited for balance and the torque of that beast. I know it isn't much more of a foot print but it makes more of a difference than you would think. Look at the 2011s. The extensions from Ulmer are real nice and have held up perfectly on my S.E., if I had to do it again I would in a hearbeat.
Wisconsin
Pro
I was actually looking for a 136" Attak, but none available at a good price when we bought our sleds. Since we're on a budget, we're not going to be extending the rails and buying longer tracks, but good advice nonetheless. I'll check out predators and studs for them. Keep the advice coming if any of you have anything else to add. Thanks again!
Nick1945
TY 4 Stroke Master
LJ 452 said:
The Hacksaw only comes in the 1" doesn't it ?
Wisconsin
Pro
I don't remember reading about a hacksaw, but yes, that's only available as a 1", otherwise it would be called a ripsaw, right? I had a hacksaw on my F7. No problems at all with it.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Correct the hacksaw only comes in a 1" lug length. I was more referring to getting any track in a 128" there should be a few different, types since cat and now Yamaha uses 128". I thought the cobra came Stockton a Z1. Anyway, good luck with the selection. By the way I had 144 double/single pattern on my 06' ApexRTX get the Ulmer kit and don't worry about the rub.
Wisconsin
Pro
I'm thinking the anti-rub is a good investment. Thanks for the advice. I do remember seeing it before at Ulmer's site, but forgot about it since last year. I'm also planning on sending in my shock to pioneerperformance.com to get it re-valved and get the big boy spring. The shock is fine now, but I'm 180 without gear and can bottom it easily with some bigger bumps/jumping. I've also got the shock set as stiff as I can between the collar adjustment and the tunnel dial.....they sure are soft suspensions from the factory.....and no, the shock, nor spring are worn out. I just got spoiled with my F7 Sno Pro....I could jump that like a dirt bike.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Yep, the 06' RTX was the worst, as far as bottoming. Unbelievably smooth in the small studders, but that's not why I got an RTX. You will be happy with a revalve. I had mine done by Hygear, I got the works, $$$$$. Worth it, but I ended up selling it the following year for the S.E. Pioneer does a lot of buisness so he should have a pretty good setup. Make sure you talk to him, and document how you ride and what you expect then place it in the box; the more information the shock place has the better. Make sure to thoughly check your suspension arms while you've got the skid out. I rode mine pretty hard and found several cracks after the first year (2300 miles). You will definently want to reinforce the front arm before the revalve, as it will put more stess on it. "Welterracer" has a kit plus powder coat, seems many are happy with it.
sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
track
I know one thing for sure and this is to NOT stud your Ice Ripper. They clearly say not to stud that track. I would agree with everyone else and go with a 1" track and stud it. You can even make an anti rub skid. I welded a piece of 1 1/2" round tube to the top of my skid right behind the shock mount. I put over 6000 miles with this and it wore almost through the tube and had to weld another piece of flat stock to the top of the tube. Makes for a cheap insurance so my shock doesn't wear through.
I know one thing for sure and this is to NOT stud your Ice Ripper. They clearly say not to stud that track. I would agree with everyone else and go with a 1" track and stud it. You can even make an anti rub skid. I welded a piece of 1 1/2" round tube to the top of my skid right behind the shock mount. I put over 6000 miles with this and it wore almost through the tube and had to weld another piece of flat stock to the top of the tube. Makes for a cheap insurance so my shock doesn't wear through.
Wisconsin
Pro
Great idea about the anti-rub weld job. I do remember reading about that. I didn't know I wasn't supposed to stud my ice ripper! Anybody know why not?
Nick1945
TY 4 Stroke Master
Wisconsin said:
Is it a single ply track, or 2 ply ? That might have something to do with it.
Wisconsin
Pro
Great catch. I looked and it looks like it is a single ply track. That would make sense. At this point, I think I should sell my track to my father and I should get something better.
I was recommended a sno-pro track. It is supposed to be more durable than the cobra. That is 1.375" and the studs would then need to be 1.45" opr 1.5". Is that correct for a good amount of penetration? Would 144 up the middle with as many scratch lines as possible provide enough traction and longevity? I wonder if that would work without ruining the tunnel/muffler? How much top end would I lose with that setup?
I was recommended a sno-pro track. It is supposed to be more durable than the cobra. That is 1.375" and the studs would then need to be 1.45" opr 1.5". Is that correct for a good amount of penetration? Would 144 up the middle with as many scratch lines as possible provide enough traction and longevity? I wonder if that would work without ruining the tunnel/muffler? How much top end would I lose with that setup?
