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B/O orange

Sorry to hijack. Is this the part number for the V2 Dalton spring?
And is that a good choice for a stock winder?
Tried that spring in stock srx and it would pull 8700 then drop to 8500 and down 10 mph on ice good conditions it had great backshift but I i would of had to bump the primary up to run it, that was at 6-2 when running it at 6-3 the clutches were burning hot never tried it w/o, with the stock pink at 6-3 got more top end and cool clutches
 

with the stock pink at 6-3 got more top end and cool clutches
Does this spring bind @ 6/3? Those coils are awful close on that stocker, and would think without machining the spring pocket on the secondary it would bind @ 6/3
 
Tried that spring in stock srx and it would pull 8700 then drop to 8500 and down 10 mph on ice good conditions it had great backshift but I i would of had to bump the primary up to run it, that was at 6-2 when running it at 6-3 the clutches were burning hot never tried it w/o, with the stock pink at 6-3 got more top end and cool clutches
Understood, thanks for sharing. Ultimately I'm going to tune it and thought this spring would work well stock & for tune.
 
Tried that spring in stock srx and it would pull 8700 then drop to 8500 and down 10 mph on ice good conditions it had great backshift but I i would of had to bump the primary up to run it, that was at 6-2 when running it at 6-3 the clutches were burning hot never tried it w/o, with the stock pink at 6-3 got more top end and cool clutches

At 6-3 that Pink is binding HARD at the top end.

Even the stock Yellow can not go over 3-3 and it will bind.
 
Mike can chime in and tell you the difference .. If I remember correctly the TP orange has SLIGHTLY more pressure then the B/O Dalton.. Both being at 6/3. I would say running either of these springs less then 6/2 on 270 tunes will burn the belt through the secondary. I have both springs and they both are great choices IMO.. A lot of factors involved, including traction being a big factor .. If you got lots of studs and a good pattern you better have the secondary spring wrapped up 6/3. Gears would be another factor. etc. Hey when you squeeze the lemon don't whack it right to the bar, just a nice even pull to the bar.. I find this to be a better way for hook and possibly lower belt temps?


If you want to truly find out what's best start at 6/1 and temp check your clutches and belt.. Too hot? /black marks? in secondary go to 6/2 and check again. Keep twisting until you find the twist that keeps belt temps low and clutches clean. I did this and found 6/3 on the TP orange to be best for temps. On the 22 (TD MAX 17)I changed my helix from a straight 45 to a straight 38, and still in the process of temp checking and twisting.. Im at 6/2 now with TP orange. I run 200 + studs and it hooks hard on hard pack.
I run a TD PowerTrail 275hp tune (CAI & 3" exhaust) and I am running the TP Orange secondary spring at 3/1 with no slipping. I also have 192 1.45 studs in the scooped double Stud Boy Super-lite Pro backers. I have pretty good hookup on snow with those.
 
I run a TD PowerTrail 275hp tune (CAI & 3" exhaust) and I am running the TP Orange secondary spring at 3/1 with no slipping. I also have 192 1.45 studs in the scooped double Stud Boy Super-lite Pro backers. I have pretty good hookup on snow with those.
What helix? What length track/ lug? studded outside the windows? Gears? Primary weights and total weight? These things are major factors. Temps( heat gun) after 1/2 mile pull?
 
What helix? What length track/ lug? studded outside the windows? Gears? Primary weights and total weight? These things are major factors. Temps( heat gun) after 1/2 mile pull?
17 LTX SE with 137 x 1.25" track
Not studded on the outside (192 down the middle)
33/35 helix
Stock 21/41 gears
TP Heavy Hitters at 76.3 grams
57.5mm clutch offset
Clutches are both just warm but not hot
 
17 LTX SE with 137 x 1.25" track
Not studded on the outside (192 down the middle)
33/35 helix
Stock 21/41 gears
TP Heavy Hitters at 76.3 grams
57.5mm clutch offset
Clutches are both just warm but not hot
Wow that’s a ton of weight for hitters! That helix angle must be helping to hold that belt. Thanks for details. I can’t run anymore then 68 grams on hitters with a straight 45 OR Straight 38. Anything more then 68 grams and I can’t pull Enough RPM up top end. I like 8900-9000 up top. Nothing less.
 
Wow that’s a ton of weight for hitters! That helix angle must be helping to hold that belt. Thanks for details. I can’t run anymore then 68 grams on hitters with a straight 45 OR Straight 38. Anything more then 68 grams and I can’t pull Enough RPM up top end. I like 8900-9000 up top. Nothing less.
The extra weight is because I am running a 2012 Vector primary clutch. I was at 71.4 grams with the Sidewinder primary. I am running 8950-9100 up top depending on conditions.
 
The extra weight is because I am running a 2012 Vector primary clutch. I was at 71.4 grams with the Sidewinder primary. I am running 8950-9100 up top depending on conditions.
Okay that changes things. That’s a ton of weight on hitters. What tune with 71.4 grams? What rpm that run with winder clutch.
 
I just posted that because not everyone has the issue of needing to run the TP Orange secondary spring at a high amount of wrap like you do. Thunder Products recommended 3/1 to me and it has been working well.
 
Okay that changes things. That’s a ton of weight on hitters. What tune with 71.4 grams? What rpm that run with winder clutch.
Same as what I posted above for the tune and same RPMs with the Sidewinder primary and 71.4 grams.
 
Hard to imagine a 35 helix allows for 3 more grams of weight. these secondary’s seem to be very forgiving with helix angle and spring pressure. No way I could run that light on secondary spring without smoking belts. Not sure what the “X” factor is here with clutching o these things but tons of different recipes that work.
 


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