jonlafon1
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I get it. And I know what they recommend. And I tried it. No way I can keep belts on with that setting on the secondary spring. Must be the straight helix ? And or difference in helix angle.I just posted that because not everyone has the issue of needing to run the TP Orange secondary spring at a high amount of wrap like you do. Thunder Products recommended 3/1 to me and it has been working well.
Alsim
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Maybe cause you running 38 helix and a probably a lot of weightI get it. And I know what they recommend. And I tried it. No way I can keep belts on with that setting on the secondary spring. Must be the straight helix ? And or difference in helix angle.
jonlafon1
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68 grams. Helix angle is not as big a factor I once thought.Maybe cause you running 38 helix and a probably a lot of weight
KnappAttack
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68 grams. Helix angle is not as big a factor I once thought.
Oh but it is Jon, The 38 you have is a STM as I recall. That is like a Dalton cut at over 44 Deg almost 45 degrees as I recall, I had one of those STM's here to compare once. The STM 38 needs a lot of spring to compensate for the bigger angle. Why STM insists on cutting them steeper the what they are is beyond me. The numbers are not even in the same ball park with Stock helix or Dalton's helix angles.
jonlafon1
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No this is a DIFFERENT helix. It’s not a STM. It’s a BDX. Same measure as stock. I Put a angle finder on it. It’s 38 straight. Running same amount of weight as the STM 45. I know it’s crazy but these helixes dont effect total weight as much as one would think. Running within 1 gram on the straight 38 to straight 45. These secondary’s are not effected like I once thought with angles and total weight.
Alsim
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Now it's more logical for me why Jonlafon put alot tension on the TP orangeOh but it is Jon, The 38 you have is a STM as I recall. That is like a Dalton cut at over 44 Deg almost 45 degrees as I recall, I had one of those STM's here to compare once. The STM 38 needs a lot of spring to compensate for the bigger angle. Why STM insists on cutting them steeper the what they are is beyond me. The numbers are not even in the same ball park with Stock helix or Dalton's helix angles.
jonlafon1
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BDX cuts helix just like stock/ Dalton.
Firedawg1998
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6-3 on v2 , xs825 with stock helix, dalton red/blk primary, dalton's @ 74g, 22t keeps me 1 sled length ahead of my cat buddy on a good roll on. Hes trying everything under the noon day sun to get me, both running 270 most of the time...cold primary, secondary warm with zero blk marks.
justinator
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very odd, I know both sidewinders here running dalton weights need weight changes with each helix change. Going to 33 finish vs 35 needs about a 1.3 gram screw to keep rpms the same and vice versa going to a straight 37 from a 35. Its in the vicinity of 200 rpm per 2 degrees of helix has been my experience so far.No this is a DIFFERENT helix. It’s not a STM. It’s a BDX. Same measure as stock. I Put a angle finder on it. It’s 38 straight. Running same amount of weight as the STM 45. I know it’s crazy but these helixes dont effect total weight as much as one would think. Running within 1 gram on the straight 38 to straight 45. These secondary’s are not effected like I once thought with angles and total weight.
Stubbs
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I find the old school button clutch to be about the same, all else being equal.very odd, I know both sidewinders here running dalton weights need weight changes with each helix change. Going to 33 finish vs 35 needs about a 1.3 gram screw to keep rpms the same and vice versa going to a straight 37 from a 35. Its in the vicinity of 200 rpm per 2 degrees of helix has been my experience so far.
jonlafon1
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Going from a straight 45 to a straight 38 and its 1 .4 gram diff. That’s on HH weights. Now 1.4 gram on a HH is like two on a Dalton. These roller secondary are way more forgiving on angle changes then most think. I know you guys think I’m crazy but I’m just not seeing a big difference in weight amount on those two helixes. I measured both with a angle finder and a stocker and it’s all the same numbers and reading the same way. And the secondary is requiring close to the same twist. Liking 6-1 or maybe 6/2 on the straight 38 with TP orange. At 3/3 it was leaving burn marks top to bottom in secondary.very odd, I know both sidewinders here running dalton weights need weight changes with each helix change. Going to 33 finish vs 35 needs about a 1.3 gram screw to keep rpms the same and vice versa going to a straight 37 from a 35. Its in the vicinity of 200 rpm per 2 degrees of helix has been my experience so far.
Fast
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I checked it last year and from what remember it wasn't binding paint still looked good but the b/o had the paint worn off in between 3 coils after 50 milesDoes this spring bind @ 6/3? Those coils are awful close on that stocker, and would think without machining the spring pocket on the secondary it would bind @ 6/3
justinator
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Guaranteed at that wrap the coils are stacked tight against each other and preventing shift out. Remove spring and reinstall helix and open clutch all the way. Measure distance across the sheaves, reinstall pink spring at anything over 3-3 and use a drill press or hydraulic press to open clutch back up and remeasure distance across sheaves and you will see how much travel is lost. The b/o spring may have scuff marks but it shifts all the way no problem even with yamaha helixs which have shorter pocket than daltons. If you were losing rpm with b/0 spring you had something else going on because at 6-2 or 6-3 it wont overshift.I checked it last year and from what remember it wasn't binding paint still looked good but the b/o had the paint worn off in between 3 coils after 50 miles
KnappAttack
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I checked it last year and from what remember it wasn't binding paint still looked good but the b/o had the paint worn off in between 3 coils after 50 miles
No, the Dalton B/O doesn't even come close to binding at 90 even with the secondary cut for more travel.
jonlafon1
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I tried, your turnGuaranteed at that wrap the coils are stacked tight against each other and preventing shift out. Remove spring and reinstall helix and open clutch all the way. Measure distance across the sheaves, reinstall pink spring at anything over 3-3 and use a drill press or hydraulic press to open clutch back up and remeasure distance across sheaves and you will see how much travel is lost. The b/o spring may have scuff marks but it shifts all the way no problem even with yamaha helixs which have shorter pocket than daltons. If you were losing rpm with b/0 spring you had something else going on because at 6-2 or 6-3 it wont overshift.
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