B/O orange

[74Nitro]

300$ for Dalton Qay 70 over here now so tempting to mod the stock ones...

The RX-1 8FA loaded up work decent also and good used ones are around given that the four cylinder reduced drive is so easy on clutches. They have a nice curvature unlike many other Yamaha weights.

 

[Phatboyc]

You need a welder to load them up too or it accepts yamaha weights?

 

[74Nitro]

You need a welder to load them up too or it accepts yamaha weights?

They are two-hole weights, yes they take Yamaha rivets as they are a factory weight. I'm not sure they can do more than a stage one tune however and be heavy enough, but Hauck also make rivets that are heavier than Yamaha's rivets.

 

[Doc Harley]

300$ for Dalton Qay 70 over here now so tempting to mod the stock ones...

I hope this will help....

 

[Phatboyc]

Thanks guys! Still making sure I don't have a belt blower. Keeping this in my notes for when I'm ready to let the honey badger out of his cage.

 

[Firedawg1998]

I totally agree. At the time I didn't know anyone who had a magic load for our stock weights. I've since met someone who does. Would be alot cheaper and pretty much , since I've set mine I haven't adjusted them again.....

 

[ranger1]

The B/O provides better response down low and midrange. It lets the belt follow the secondary sheave off throttle and not allow belt whip. More responsive everywhere, and it will not coil bind where the factory pink does over 50 and the yellow does over 60.

Wrap the new V2 B/O at 80 for sleds at 240 and below, and 90 for sled at 270-300 typically. Higher is more responsive and holds the belt better.

This definitely clarifies what you were telling me the other day Mike, thanks again

 

[Doc Harley]

Hmm... Thanks for bringing this back up ranger1. I'm still running on 80° with an advertised 300hp tune.

 

[ranger1]

Hmm... Thanks for bringing this back up ranger1. I'm still running on 80° with an advertised 300hp tune.

Nice to hear the 80 degree is still working good with the Black /orange Dalton for you Doc!!! I was going to start at 6+1 but heck with it, jumping right into the 6+2 thanks to you and Mike, hahahaha. Havent heard of anyone getting any binding with that high wrap percentage. My secondary is slipping at very slow speeds and take off with stock spring. I run mostly at 240 tune

 

[jonlafon1]

Hmm... Thanks for bringing this back up ranger1. I'm still running on 80° with an advertised 300hp tune.

My experience with the 300 tune with 6/3 on the B/O dalton secondary spring will slip the belt way up top. Like 115MPH+. I think 6/3 is really good but might be just slipping slightly up top. This is with a 38 finish helix.. So if your running a 35 finish it may be just fine. Many variables like traction and helix angle to name a few. Testing two yesr ago on big tune I could just smell the belt a little on the tail end of a run 1000 ft. This is on my sled not saying its the same as yours.. 6/2 might be light on the 300 tune. IMO

 

[Doc Harley]

Nice to hear the 80 degree is still working good with the Black /orange Dalton for you Doc!!! I was going to start at 6+1 but heck with it, jumping right into the 6+2 thanks to you and Mike, hahahaha. Havent heard of anyone getting any binding with that high wrap percentage. My secondary is slipping at very slow speeds and take off with stock spring. I run mostly at 240 tune.

Jonlafon & Ranger1, i have to assume 80° wrap is working cuz my primary is slightly slipping on the 305hp tune. So when I switch up to a slightly more robust primary spring, and adding more weight, I'll need to take another peek at the secondary wrap.
The 80° wrap has been flawless up to 275. Again and like Jon said, as long as you stay within a certain perimeter.

 

[STAIN]

My secondary is slipping at very slow speeds and take off with stock spring. I run mostly at 240 tune

Really??? It is VERY hard to slip the secondary at slow speeds......

 

[ranger1]

Really??? It is VERY hard to slip the secondary at slow speeds......

Well, I went into some deeper powder snow, took off the side cover and visually watched the belt slip on the secondary when gradually touching the throttle

 

[STAIN]

The reason I say that it is hard to slip the belt at slow speeds is because you have the most belt contact and least amount of power at that time. To slip at low throttle input seems like it would point to something else
Have you looked at he rest of your clutch for bushing or roller wear? I can see the clutch starting to shift, but to slip at that time seems very strange...

 

[ranger1]

The reason I say that it is hard to slip the belt at slow speeds is because you have the most belt contact and least amount of power at that time. To slip at low throttle input seems like it would point to something else
Have you looked at he rest of your clutch for bushing or roller wear? I can see the clutch starting to shift, but to slip at that time seems very strange...

I know what you are saying for sure, I also noticed the belt was jumping around quite a bit at the time I was watching it so I am adjusting the belt deflection today and installing the black/ orange spring. See how it goes. Thanks